Swapping Handgaurd on AR

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Good Ol' Boy

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I want to swap the quad rail that came on my AR15. I want something more full length and smoother than the abrasive texture of the quad that came on it.

So, Key Mod or M Lok and what will fit my gun? What's involved in swapping? I'm willing to purchase tools within monetary reason.

I've seen some in the $50-150 range that I like.

Don't know if a pic will help but I'll post it anyway. Gun is a Diamondback DB15.


IMG_20170211_173322352_zpsd9ptj0w1.jpg
 
Most if not all of the new foregrips come with the new barrel nut you may need, so probably just a barrel wrench and a few allen wrenches to get yours off. Maybe a pin punch to remove the gas tube, but that is about it.
 
Look at these. I'm waiting on a Vypr 13.5 M-Lok that should be here next Thursday to put on my AR556 .
https://www.stngrusa.com/
I got the kit since I needed the gas block and preferred the steel nut. This will be my first swap and I had to get a BEV block and a bbl nut wrench also. Those came from www.MidwayUSA.com
 
Just need to take off the old handguard, remove the gas block and tube, remove the old barrel nut, put the new barrel not on, put gas block on, put handguard on.

I recommend a slim 15” with no rails on the bottom or sides. There are primary two different attachment methods for the handguard, some of them attach to the barrel nut with 6 screws, and some of them clamp onto the barrel nut with 2 or 3 screws on the bottom only. Both work fine but the clamp o style is probably more secure and are easier to install since you don’t need to time the barrel nut.

I have looked at a bunch of expensive ones locally and honestly the ones I get on eBay for $30 don’t seem to be lacking in quality to the $150 ones they stock in local shops, but that’s just me.
 
Also I'd add a decent torque wrench onto the list of tools. The new barrel nut "should" be torqued. I say "should" cause some folks go by feel. I go the other route.

So you're looking at:

1. Armorer's wrench (I use a Magpul, great but $$$) to get the old barrel nut off, then new back on.
2. Small punch set (Roll Pin) to get the gas tube out of your gas block and later put back on
3. Allen wrenches OR another punch depending on how your current gas block is mounted, IE: set-screw VS pinned VS clamp-on
4. Bev Block (My preferred), Upper block, action rod etc. to hold your upper for disassembly and re-assembly. Again this is something some guys skip, but I have a thing against screwing chit up. Barrel nuts are torqued on and some are to the extreme end of the specs.
5. Decent bench vise, sturdily mounted

Depending on the FF forearm you choose possibly a manufacturer specific nut wrench that will fit the new barrel nut. Usually not very expensive, but they keep you from scratching up your nut. I've been buying SLR forearms lately so I'm still using the same wrench I bought with the 1st one. You won't need a set of gauges cause in theory the headspace was checked by the manufacturer. You'll end up getting a set later IF you don't head my warning below.

Be careful!! Cause probably the majority of AR builders started with something like a simple forearm swap. Then you've got these tools lying around and an extra forearm. The same tools for forearm swaps allow you to swap out barrels, so you're almost set for a complete upper build.............


and that's how it starts.
 
Most of the slim FF nuts go on with a crescent wrench rather than the specific armorer’s wrench. If you want to use a torque wrench O’Reilly’s auto parts or Autozone loan them out for free. You put a deposit on it and they refund it when you bring it back. I do them by feel, but I’m a very mechanical person so I have the experience to do so.

You will need a vice to hold the upper so you can get the nut on and off.
 
Thanks all. The few videos I've looked at made it seem a lot simpler but I can't say I'm surprised.

What is the torque spec for the barrel nut? Different for all guns? How will I know if I need a new nut, or do the guards usually come with a new one?
 
Thanks all. The few videos I've looked at made it seem a lot simpler but I can't say I'm surprised.

What is the torque spec for the barrel nut? Different for all guns? How will I know if I need a new nut, or do the guards usually come with a new one?

"Torque past 30 foot-pounds, until the next hole in the nut aligns with the gas-tube hole in the receiver, but do not exceed 80 foot-pounds. After aligning the barrel with the receiver and installing the barrel nut, use a torque wrench in conjunction with a barrel wrench to properly tighten the nut."

Pretty broad range really, but it's to allow for he gas tube to index with the normal "milspec" barrel nuts. Not really a concern with a FF barrel nut.

Free-float handguards normally come with their own barrel nut as it's part of the FF system.
 
Most slim free float rails don’t have the gas tube going through the barrel nut, so you can just do like 30-40 ft lbs. Almost all will come with a new nut. The exception would be there are a few designed to attach to a mil spec star nut, which you don’t have.
 
Look at these. I'm waiting on a Vypr 13.5 M-Lok that should be here next Thursday to put on my AR556 .
https://www.stngrusa.com/
I got the kit since I needed the gas block and preferred the steel nut. This will be my first swap and I had to get a BEV block and a bbl nut wrench also. Those came from www.MidwayUSA.com
I have the 15” RPTR on mine and I couldn’t be happier with it. It’s very light weight which makes the rifle much easier to use. The only thing you need to worry about when ordering is that you need a low profile gas block but they are pretty cheap so it’s 100% worth it.
 

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I bought a couple PSA kits that came with their lightweight MLOK handguards. If you examine them closely you find Midwest Industries' logo on them. They seem to be high quality and very comfortable to use. I don't think PSA sells the handguards separately but MI has very similar "lightweight" handguards available. That's what I would go with if I were in the market.
 
One issue not mentioned, you may have to replace your gas block with some of the slimmer handguards--so be prepared for that. If you have fired your AR a lot, the carbon can also kinda cement the gas block into place. Might need to give is a soak in penetrating solvent of some sort to loosen the hardened crud in order to remove the gas block.

Right now, the Keymod handguards are not the "cool kid" now in the market versus the M-Lok system so you might be able to get a bit better deal on those but accessories for Keymod are a bit more limited and you have to search online a bit more to find them--but fortunately picatinny rails are pretty universal and easy to buy for Keymods. If I was going to use the rifle hard, supposedly the M-Lok system is stronger than Keymod.

Some sources for cheaper handguards than the name brands--cdnn and delta tactical. Last build for a range rifle, I used a keymod from delta tactical for about $40 bucks or so and an additional $10 for a piece closing off the front end, looks nice enough and holds the attached rails just fine. I suspect that the handguard is imported stuff so that might bother some folks.

Sometimes CDNN has name brand stuff that is discontinued and the like that is quite good. Some is imported and generic stuff of varying quality. I've bought parts used in Sigs and Smith and Wesson AR's there for example.
 
I have looked at many and don't like the looks at all.

Plus, thats not going to help with the full length I want.

Alexander arms mk10 is a 2 in dia. Composite, with rows of inserts at 3, 6, 9, and 12. Comes in lengths up to 15 inches. Is shipped with screws in each insert, but remove all the screws to make the tube smooth.
Two down side points, their picatinny rails are high priced (I drill and cut my own) and the shipping would make the Pope cry.
But my 3 best rifles all have one
 
Having used a decent variety, I will no longer purchase a handguard that requires me to index the top rail of the handguard to be square with the upper receiver by means of torque on the barrel nut.

It adds an unnecessarily complicated step and may necessitate the use of shims to arrive at a torque value that is acceptable, that allows the HG to be bolted to the barrel nut.


There are others on the market, but I personally have used the 15" Armalite handguards. They are available in both MLOK and Keymod. The barrel nut is slim enough that the gas tube also clears the top of the barrel nut and requires no indexing.


There are some really convoluted and questionable designs out there using jam nuts and other means to hold the HG square to the receiver. I have helped friends install some of them. Some of them are designed to use spanner wrenches that are not up to the task of the amount of torque necessary to install a barrel nut. The Armalite barrel nut has massive wrench flats. No concerns whatsoever about stripping out a small spanner wrench hole. The HG itself has massive anti-rotation tabs that would be almost impossible to break. I have seen the tiny anti-rotation tabs on other quite popular designs that have broke under moderate use. The Armalite HG attaches to the barrel nut via clamping force, torquing down two bolts into steel nuts that are recessed into the opposite side. It does not require torquing the bolts into the aluminum of the HG. Which if it were to strip, you are either screwed or need to have some machining done to fix.


https://www.armalite.com/product/15tachgd15mlok-m15-tactical-mlok-handguard/


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It sounds like nit picking but the Armalite handguards were clearly designed by someone who was tired of jumping through unnecessary hoops to install other designs. I haven't found another that I like as well but I am pretty sure BCM offers choices that do not force you to index the handguard via torque on the barrel nut. I'm sure there are others on the market as well, I just haven't used them.
 
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Keymod vs. Mlok is personal preference. All my stuff is keymod because that is the path I went down. There is some testing that was done that showed Mlok to be stronger from impact. I have various lights and sling mounts in keymod, as well as a Harris bipod mount. None of it has ever come loose. I'm not going to proclaim that keymod is the best just because that is what I have. I am saying that if the HG that you really want is only available in one or the other, you will be fine.

Plenty of gear available for both, I don't think either is going to die out anytime soon.
 
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