Swede 6.5 infantry

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g7mm

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Hey guys,

Let me know if I got a good deal. I just purchased a 6.5x55 infantry model for $289. The markings are:
Waffenfabrik Mauser Oberndorf A/N 1900 (I assume this is the manufactured year)
and on the side of the receiver has the
serial number O.G. 41207. The stock is not the greatest shape, but the action and bore are nice and shiney. Plus it has the little dial thing on the elevation site. I have seen something about that before, but I can not find the website that had information on it.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
The markings are:
Waffenfabrik Mauser Oberndorf A/N 1900 (I assume this is the manufactured year)
Yes, date of manufacture- it was made at the Mauser factory for Sweden.
serial number O.G. 41207
Swedish Arsenal Inspector's initials and serial number.

. Plus it has the little dial thing on the elevation site

Metallverken sight- these were used on M96s that were cut down and converted to 96/38 carbines. If the rifle you are looking at has a ~23" barrel, the sight is original to it from its conversion. Note: the sight itself is worth over $50.

If the bore and the rest of it is in good condition, its worth the price so long as the stock isn't cracked or badly damaged.
 
The stock is not cracked but has dings and scrapes. The bore is nice and bright as well as the bolt. Still has the cleaning rod.
 
I agree, a 6.5 down here in houston goes for 300 plus, and thatis if you can find one. I have only seen 7.5 lately. Plus you never see one with the rear adjustment wheel...
 
So...? Short barrel or long? Straight bolt handle? I've got a 43XXX Obie (IIRC... I'm still at work and don't have that serial no. committed to memory) of the long tube variety.

Take it apart, clean the wood (check to see if the serial number is also on the wood stock inside beneath the barrel) and iron/steam out any dents you can (gouges are... gouges). Don't sand it down, just lightly take off any fuzz that pops up from any steaming.

Buy some ammo, shoot it. A lot.

If you know anything about really cleaning the stock you can sometimes discover some nice wood grain underneath any gunk and bring it out to shine. (tho gunk is a relative term as most of the Swedes took really good care of their rifles, as the bore shows)

And I'm not sure, but I think photo's are a requirement... aren't they? :D
 
It's the short barrel with the straight bolt handle. Where can I get info on the rear adjustment wheel.
 
What specific info do you need? That rear sight is one of the known variants. is it marked with a 100 or 200 yard minimum sight setting.
 
I guess my question is it supposed to be at zero at 300 meters? The rear sight starts at 3 and increases to 6 which I am guessing is 300 meters to 600 meters. The dial is below three at its lowest setting.
 
The stock disc is divided up into three parts. One is the bore condition as inspected by whomever the last armorer was who looked at it. It is the area with a 1, 2, 3 in it. If there is no mark, then the barrel is basically brand new. A 1, means pretty dang good, a 2 means some rust in the grooves and 3 means start thinking about replacing the barrel.
Please note that the Swedes were VERY anal about this and most of the 3 marked barrels are better than anything you see these days.
The next area is the bore diameter as measured.
then there is another area for hold over or hold under while sighting. Most guns were adjusted to right on target at 300 meters. But after they went to the 139 grain spitzer bullet some rifles ran out of adjustment.

How long is your barrel? If it is a 29 inch long barrel then it is a M-96 (model of 1896) rifle. There were 24,487 or there abouts, made during 1900 by the Oberndorf Mauser plant on the Necker River. The A/N means "Am Necker"
The Oberndorf factory only made 1896 models from 1899 to 1900.
By the way, 1898 was the first year they actually produced the Model 96.


IF, your barrel is about 23.5 inches long, then your rifle was originally a M-96 long rifle. BUT, it was then modifed to an M-38 rifle in the late 1930s or early 1940s. Some folks in the US call these the M-38/96 rifles. But the Swedes never called them anything but the M-38s.
From 1941 to 1944 Husqvarna made M-38 rifles AS BUILT. They also made some M-96 long rifles during the WWII period for the Shooter Movement (FSR).


Here is a stock disc pic.

and a M-96 (1900 Oberndorf) next to a Husqvarna 1943 M-38
 
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Well it won't let me do photos tonight...

If your rear sight has an adjustment wheel it is one of a few replacement types. Or you have the vasteras Insert which is very cool indeed.

Does it have a part inside that is brass or silver colored? Is there a little Viking Ship engraved on any parts of the rear sight?
 
Yeap, the Bolt handle is straight because it was converetd from the M-96 which had a straight bolt. Since few M-96s were made by Oberndorf, it figures that even fewer were converted to M-38s. I personaly think that the 1900 Oberndorfs had the best machine work on their metal...

Here is some reading for you concerning Swedish sights. Yours is about half way down the page. I can't post any photos of my sights because this computer is possessed.... Stinkin Gateway...

http://p223.ezboard.com/SWEDISH-MIL...irearmsforumfrm45.showMessage?topicID=2.topic
 
What specific info do you need? That rear sight is one of the known variants. is it marked with a 100 or 200 yard minimum sight setting.
__________________
Correct spelling for rear sight is vastaris( I think). There is a tiny screw in center of dial, whereby you can set dial to distance then fine tune elevation, so marks line up where you want them for repeating settings easily for different ranges.
 
Purchase one identical, ser 56XXX about 14 or 15 yrs ago. Was like new condition. Think it was under 100.00 at that time. Only mod I did was to replace front blade sight with a taller one to bring on target at 100 yds at 300 meter mark on the dial. Workmanship on the oldies is superb.
What is interesting is that the Swedes did not trust German steel so sent all the raw steel to Germany for the mfg. of these rifles. From the first 96's made in the 1800's to the last ones made in the 1900's the steel formula was never changed.
 
Purchase one identical, ser 56XXX about 14 or 15 yrs ago. Was like new condition. Think it was under 100.00 at that time. Only mod I did was to replace front blade sight with a taller one to bring on target at 100 yds at 300 meter mark on the dial. Workmanship on the oldies is superb.
What is interesting is that the Swedes did not trust German steel so sent all the raw steel to Germany for the mfg. of these rifles. From the first 96's made in the 1800's to the last ones made in the 1900's the steel formula was never changed.

History on these old guns is interesting. My first was back in '90 and I paid something like $69, a friend had gotten a ffl and wanted to sell me somethings so I said get me a Swede. Got an 1988 CG not all matching but a nice shooting rifle. Then I ran across a short rifle at a gun show a couple of years ago and could not pass it up. It was a 1900 Obie, two digit serial number, all matching numbers, which I later determined that it had been a CG, but the receiver had been replaced and numbered to the rest of the rifle, using the Mauser mfr receiver. They had had unnumbered receivers made for repair work and would number them as used, hence this one has a Mauser mfr reciever of a serial number not assigned to Mauser. ???

I did wind up buying a few others , 1917-18 vintage, and do not have space for more or I would become a serious collector. Originally I did not care for the cock on closing, but have come to like it and the incredible smoothness of the Swede action. I know it's not as strong as the 98 but I like it much better.
 
Thanks for all of the info. I really appreciate it. I'll try to get some pictures put up in the next few days.
 
It is an interesting historical footnote that the Swedish Mausers made in Germany still used Swedish Steel. Swedish iron ore has very low levels of impurities which is why it is still used in high quality saw blades and knives.
 
I was all set to sell my m38 until I read this thread. I guess I can make a little extra room in the safe. Thanks for preventing me from doing something I might regret. BTW its a 1915 Gustaf, barrel grade 1, metallverken rear sight, all matching numbers (no bayonet though).
 
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