Synthetic Lubes and Cleaners

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sigpro2022

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I just purchased a Sig Sauer pistol, it came with Mil Comm's TW25B grease. I tried it and loved it. Any opinions on using synthetic lube and cleaners? I've always been a Hoppe's 9 fan and Rem Oil or WD40. I've tried the gun grease that came with my Sig on my Glock and Beretta, also using it on my Bushmaster M4.

Has anyone had any bad reactions to using these synthetic products?
 
I've been using a synthetic grease called Super Lube with no problems. It doesn't run off like oil can. It has a temperature range of -45F to +450F. It's clear and non-toxic.
 
I've tried several cleaners for copper fouling. Ballistol sitting over a few days gets a bit of it. Hoppes #9 gets the smallest fraction. I've let Hoppes Benchrest Copper Cleaner sit in some bores for 7 hours and it gets a bunch, but still leaves a bunch. I've tried Wipe-out foaming cleaner on 2 guns. Use the accelerator and let it sit in the gun for 30 minutes...and it pretty much gets every trace of copper out of there.
 
I have been useing gunzilla for stanard cleaning or kroil oil if coppering or leading is an issue. leave it wet for a day or two. It will craw behind any thing that is in the barrel to loosen it. Gunzilla ia very good deneral purpose clean and is a NON-hazardous cleaner and simple works well.
 
You need to try Mr Berryhill's wonder lube. 1911Tuner pointed me at this stuff and it is remarkably better than Gun-Butter, Rem, Hoppes, CLP, and many more I cant think of right now.
 
the slides and any contact points on my semi's all get Slide Glide applies so it just looks wet. My Sig 250 has over 15k rounds through it and there is only a small single spot of wear, to me that speaks for itself....
 
keep wd40 away from guns,kills primers.try amsoil synthetic wheel bearing grease.buy it by the tube,should last awhile

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_4_45/ai_55605512/

Deadly WD-40
by Massad Ayoob
A friend of mine recalls a long-ago day on a big city subway. He was licensed to carry and was wearing a Smith & Wesson Model 36 Chiefs Special revolver. He was alone in that particular subway car when it was boarded by a perpetrator who suddenly menaced him with a knife. He drew the .38, aimed at the antagonist's face and pulled the trigger.

Click!

God was looking down protectively. On the other side of the gun, the perpetrator's face took on an expression of horror. His eyes rolled up into his head until only the whites showed, and he keeled over on his back in a dead faint.

A post-mortem of this incident with a happy ending revealed the problem. Proud of his finely made revolver's rich blue finish, my friend frequently sprayed down the gun with WD-40. Wanting clean ammo too, he had sprayed the case heads and primers as well. WD-40, of course, is a metal penetrating oil. It had killed the primer in each and every chamber.

Our Chiefs owner is now much older and wiser. He carries a Colt .45 auto he custom-built himself. And he keeps his powder -- and his primers -- dry.

COPYRIGHT 1999 Publishers' Development Corporation
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group
 
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Synthetic high temp brake grease usually works fantastic for me compared to any oil I've tried, just be sure to not put too much, a dab will do ya
 
I used synthetics in and on the works, however had a very bad experience with a match pistol opening up groups with a synthetic down the bore.. so I tend to stick with Hoppes or Butches Bore Shine down the tube, and for cleaning the action, then a synthetic lube for the moving parts after I'm done with the cleaning.. WD-40 is a no-no for me, seems to attract dust.. however I keep some around in case something gets wet. after all, that IS what it was designed for..
 
I do most of my light cleanup with
...and Rem Oil or WD40.
WD40 is what the uncle who taught me how to shoot used...and I'm not sure how he got away with it.

WD40 is designed to displace water...that's what the WD stands for...and leaves a gummy film when it dries. Rem Oil, according to the foremost SIG pistolsmith in the country is what they use as junk oil in the shop, because of it's ability to stay where you need it on a working gun.

TW25B is about the lightest lube you want to run you SIG on...more important on alloy framed guns than polymer ones...and is what I use for my carry gun. Heavier grease like Slide Glide or Lubriplate should be used for training of practice sessions as it better protects the metal

I do most of my like cleanup with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. If something has to go into the ultra sonic cleaner, I'll add a couple of capfulls of Simple Green to water
 
I'm sorta sold on synthetic lubricants since that's what I sell for a living.

I normally use a lightweight spray lubricant, but also have a synthetic spray grease that works well.

Since I sell a motor oil product I've been meaning to try that as well. Have been on the lookout for some type of applicator (suggestions are welcome) since it come in a quart.
 
I'm sorta sold on synthetic lubricants since that's what I sell for a living.

I normally use a lightweight spray lubricant, but also have a synthetic spray grease that works well.

Since I sell a motor oil product I've been meaning to try that as well. Have been on the lookout for some type of applicator (suggestions are welcome) since it come in a quart.
msparks, q-tip and fingers is what I do.
 
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