T/C Omega

[Zeke/PA]

I was at the range with a friend and his new Omega yesterday.
For whatever reason it was VERY hard to load even after several wet patches and a couple of dry ones.
The slug??
250 grain T/C Shock Waves.
Would appreciate any input.
Regards, Zeke

 

[arcticap]

Were you shooting with 777 powder, and was there a crud ring in the breech?
Were the cleaning patches tight enough, and what solvent was being used to swab with?
Was the sabot too tight even at the muzzle?

The TC's are said to have slightly tighter bores so they're slightly more susceptible to fouling when using some sabots.
Depending on whether plastic or powder fouling or a crud ring was a contributing factor, a better solvent, a plastic bore brush or tighter fitting cleaning patches could be used to clean better between shots.
There's also easier loading sabots that are available from MMP that can be swapped with the existing sabots. There's different sabot diameters, petal designs and lengths.
Easier loading Powerbelt bullets that only have a plastic skirt are another option.
Also using a good starter and a stout ramrod with a handle, along with a mallet to gently tap the bullets down the bore can be of great assistance when loading tight fitting sabots.
Sometimes a final patch lubricated with a very small amount of TC Bore Butter will slicken up the bore just enough to aid loading. After the powder is dropped in, only lube the top 1/3 to 1/2 of the bore.

http://www.mmpsabots.com/

 

[Zeke/PA]

articap,
Shooting was done with Pyrodex pellets and Sabots were difficult to load even at the muzzle.
Bore swabbing was done with CVA pre moistened patches followed by a dry patch.
I had this rifle in my sole possession several weeks ago to mount the scope and sight it in .
I had no problems whatsoever.
I cleaned the rifle thoroughly at home with Hoppes #9+, swabbed it dry and used Bore Butter instead of gun oil.
I'm really beginning to think that the Bore Butter might be the culprit.
I have the exact same rifle and have never had these problems.
At any rate, thanks for the input.
Respectfully, Zeke

 

[arcticap]

It seems like you did everything right.
A plastic bore brush might help.
Maybe the sabots are just a little too tight for this barrel.
Good luck and let is know if you figure it out.

 

[Zeke/PA]

articap,
Please elaborate on what a plastic bore brush is .
I have some time before the second muzzleloader season in Maryland and I'll try to solve the problem.
Respectfully, Zeke

 

[arcticap]

Nylon bore brushes are just one type of black powder cleaning brushes made by Hoppe's and which are usually labeled as "Tynex".
They're made for cleaning most caliber guns, but finding them in black powder calibers isn't always easy. Usually only the smaller calibers are found at the big box stores.
Any bore brush or decent solvent should remove plastic sabot residue if you think that could be the problem.
A solvent soaked patch tightly fitted with a cleaning jag should effectively remove plastic residue too.
I usually put a layer of masking tape over the threaded brush adaptor before brushing with one to avoid scratching the bore. To avoid muzzle wear with the aluminum rod I use a bore guide or muzzle guard.

However, the MMP 3Petal-EZ sabot is the loosest fitting sabot, and the medium diameter HPH24 is the next loosest fitting sabot, either of which could help to solve the problem. It's just that too loose of a sabot may not shoot the most accurately. Why not try one of these once the barrel is made squeaky clean?

http://www.hoppes.com/products/ca_nylon_phosphor_brushes.html

I've only located it in .50 caliber at the vendor below, and it fits the Hoppe's Black Powder Cleaning Rod with adaptor that's also listed.

http://www.dnrsports.com/acatalog/D___R_Catalog_Hoppe_s_1993.html

Ref: HOP1332
BLACK POWDER CLEANING BRUSH (.50 Cal.)

Ref: HOP4PA
ALUMINUM, SLOTTED END (BP cleaning rod)

 

[ATAShooter]

get some Hornady One Shot. It is a reloading case lube. Lay your Sabots on newspaper, spray them, then let dry. It makes life a tad easier. I have to do this due to a touch of arthritis.

 

[33rowdy]

I use shock waves alot. This year Im using Barnes TMZs. Both are very tight. The bore butter does work or say help. I myself use TC's T-17 Pre-saturated Cleaning Patches. Or the T-17 in a pump spray bottle sometimes. After the shot break up the old powder and residue with the T-17 then a dry patch. Then use bore butter on a patch, then a dry patch again to remove the excessive bore butter for the best accuracy. That is the best I have found for easy loading. The better bullets will be tight. I'll never recomend Power Belts in a good quality barrel. I might sugest them in a barel that does not have a true bore.

 

[cold_surfer]

switch to 777 and run a patch with water on it after the shot, then a dry patch.

Even better, switch to American Pioneer Powder and run 2 50 grain sticks. water on patches every few shots, dry followup. I never use any of the bore butter crap anymore. 1-2" at 100 yard groups.. Maybe better once I get more range time with my new nikon omega.

either of those powders will clean up with water... APP is especially clean.

Oh yeah -- switch to 777 primers. the shotgun 209's foul up alot more than you think...

 

[cold_surfer]

too MUCH powder will foul the barrel faster too... 150gr fouls more than 100. 70gr. seems right, but it is too low of power for long range. you need to practice alot to get a good feel for it. The bore butter or other oils may soak into the powder and result in some of the powder not igniting. This happened to me recently and I needed a second 209 to fire the gun -- it scared me a little -- but it did fire. when loading the second primer it became obvious to me why they recommend safety glasses !!!! it is for when things go wrong and you are taking off a "flash in the pan" primer and worried the charge would go off and blow into your face or burn your fingers.

BTW -- your gun will fire if have the wrench on the primer and you pull the trigger -- I tested it and it definately will...

safety first! !!!!! Have fun..


DO you remove the bore plug when you clean? is the bore actually clean???