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Take a dip or get a Bath

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Kermit911

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Nov 3, 2004
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Hi all, Is there a dip or any kind of cleaning liquid I can submerse my Desert Eagle .50 Cal in to give it a really good cleaning with out damaging it?

ohhhh

and second question. I used to get my .50 cleaned at the range every now and then. They said they dipped it in somthing, air blow it dry, then stick it in some kind of machine that ionized it or something like that. Ever hear of anyhting like that?

thanx all
 
I think the best method for cleaning your eagle would be learning how to break it down, and buy a pistol cleaning kit. Just take a small rod, with some patches and be able to wipe out the bore and clean the chamber area. The Desert Eagle is gas operated, no? If it's a self cleaning gas system, leave'r be. If not, you'll probably want to wipe out the gas ports and gas tube from time to time. You shouldn't have to submerge the gun in anything though. Just a quick casual wipedown with an oily rag after you've cleaned'r guts out. :)
 
Just throw it in the dishwasher.

Seriously, a bath or dip is not necessary. Get a kit if you don't have one and clean it normally. Patches, a rod, Q-Tips, an old toothbrush, some Hoppes and maybe some pipe cleaners is all you'll need. I find that bore snakes are handy to have too.

Good luck.
 
The gas tube on a Desert Eagle...

Isn't what one would call accessible. It's integral to the barrel, so if you dunk the barrel in your solvent of choice, you will fill up the gas system. The gas port is at the chamber throat right where the rifling starts, so you're not going to clean it from that end. Either you use compressed air at the gas cylinder (muzzle end) to blow the solvent out, or you get ready for a sloppy mess the first time you fire the gun afterwards. (The gas cylinder is facing the shooter as the slide comes back)

It's a dirty gun, yes. I use Ed's Red for dunking my own Desert Eagle barrel, when I want to de-carbon the gas system. Then I blow it out clean. ;)
 
Diesel fuel. Works great on M16 bolts .... the rifle which cr*ps where it eats. Matter of fact, a 5 gallon pail will clean an entire platoon's worth of weapons.
 
Kermitt, I have to ask, is that your only gun?

Personally, I feel that cleaning guns after a range session is important. It lets you check for any damage, plus it is something to do while watch TV or listening to the radio.

I don't find it a dreadful task, but then again hours and hours and hours of cleaning M16's in basic probably made me immune to gun cleaning boredom.

MrM
 
I love cleaning guns, it's always good to know how to take it apart and clean it, it's a great way to get to know the weapon and can help you better trouble shoot it if ever there's a problem.
Also...just curious.
I've heard that DEs were notorious for jamming, especially the .50.
How is it? =D
 
As a child I was taught to clean my guns after hunting or range trip, end of the day at a trapshoot, basically every time I shot it. I have never had a "problem" gun. I was also taught to clean my tools after working on a car or anything else. "Take care of your tools and they will last forever." - Thanks Dad
 
The Desert Eagle can be finicky, yes.

They need a lot of gas volume (not just pressure) to operate their gas system, which resembles the M16 with respect to the bolt. Many of the early .357 Magnum Desert Eagles (like mine below) wouldn't function at all with most commercial .357 ammo, because it couldn't deliver the gas needed to cycle the big chunk of steel. Folks were trying to shoot 125gr .357 ammo, with no luck. (You need 158gr or heavier) Magnum Research eventually came out with a list of factory-approved ammo that would work the big autopistol. And in the process, many folks who bought the big guns ended up selling them because they jammed. I bought mine for less than $400 because the previous owner was disgusted with it. Since I handload, I have no problems with the gun whatsoever, I make sure to load it hot enough to cycle reliably.

.44 Magnum Desert Eagles were somewhat more forgiving of their ammo choices, but a few self-defense loads, closer to .44 Special in power levels, still failed to cycle the big gun.

The .50AE Desert Eagles are in a better position, because most ammo made in that caliber is intended for the gun to begin with. I'd still keep it at 300-325 grains per bullet to maintain good cycling pressure.

Here's the recommended ammo list:

http://www.magnumresearch.com/docs/DEP_Ammo_List.xls

Magnum Research does recommend changing the dual recoil springs of their pistols on a regular basis.

Here's a good site that shows when you need to replace your recoil springs:

http://www.zvis.com/dep/depfaqtmpl.shtml?faq/faq11.dat

eaglebloodstream.gif
 
When I clean my DE .44 I always clean the gas port underneath the front of the barrel, and the gas piston. I use Hoppes #9 and q-tips. My .44 requires pretty much full power loads to reliable cycle the slide, but many years ago I bought a reduced power gas piston which allows me to shoot reduced loads. It wasn't as much fun as the full power loads, so I haven't used it in years.
 
Thanx guys for all your remarks. Nope, it is definately not my only gun. It used to lock open on every other round, but that was because the clip was worn. I love this gun, yes it is expenceive to shoot. About $1.03 a bulet :cuss: ohh and a clip is $49.00 but she is a lot of fun. I shoot 350 grain. Never had that big of a problem with her jamming. If you like, you can see all the weapons I own here: http://accessprotocols.com/MyGunNuts/Friends.html
I'm Kermit. :D Plus a few a couple of my friends own. Thanx again guys.
 
I bought mine for less than $400 because the previous owner was disgusted with it.
Click to expand...

Wow, that is even cheaper than the New .41 Mag Desert Eagle my wife bought while CDNN was clearing them out. But $599 wasn't a bad price for it either. Tons of fun, and also pushed me into reloading finally.
 
Dishwasher (turn the heat dry off so it won't melt the grips, JIC), WD-40, blow it out with air and then CLP. I'd only do this every 2500 rounds or so. Otherwise I would just follow the manual.
 
Brake Cleaner.
I use it to clean all of the deep nooks and crannies that I don't want to think about trying to get to. I just spray it in the places that I want to clean out and let it run out of the gun until it isn't black anymore. It's less than $2 per can at the auto parts store.

Try it on a small area first, because it has discolored plastic parts and some fragile finishes, but I use it on my plastic H&K and my nickel gun has no problem with it. Try to keep it off of your hands. It won't kill you, but it sucks every molecule of moisture from everything that it touches. It makes my fingers feel like they're going to crack.
 
The device used at your gunshop is probably an ultrasonic cleaner. It runs ultrasonic waves through a cleaning solution that your gun is immersed it. It literally shakes all of the dirt loose. It it thorough, safe, and likely to remove all of the colored markings from the gun. The same device is used by jewelers to clean rings, and other items with small crevices.

It's a bit more sophisticated than a dunk in diesel.
 
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