Tanto Blades

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If you're talking about the Americanized Tanto, I can't think of many advantages. Has little to no belly, is too thick at the point to penetrate well, and is more difficult to shrapen with the abrupt change near the tip. It is strong. If you need to pry things that's the blade shape you want. Guess you can tell I don't like them. :neener:
 
If done right, the American tanto can be a good slasher. It's easiest to slash with the point since there's no material behind it to drag, and the American tanto has a second point at the end of the belly, which can be good for slashing.

Not enough to justify a price difference, IMHO, but to each his own. It's also supposed be stronger under some stresses because the full thickness of the blade spine extends farther towards the tip.
 
My view may be odd, but I think the blade shape matters LEAST of all the factors that make for a good fighter.

First thing, it's gotta be tough. Folders need GOOD locks. Blade steel needs to be at least decent. Strider fixed-blades have been so popular despite their ergos ("brick wrapped in string") because you just can't break 'em.

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Grip shape and general ergonomics is the next most important factor. That means a grip that retains well in the hand, and won't let your hand "slide down the blade" on a hard-target stab. The SOG that Combat-wombat was looking at has a nicely sculpted lower guard that prevents that sort of problem, and the ergos are otherwise above average.

A *really* good grip will let you put more power in, and quickly shift the tip around as needed, it'll "dance in the hand". Go play with a Mad Dog ATAK or bigger, or any Ernie Mayer big bowie, or a Bagwell (handmade if possible, or the Ontarios). Or a Larry Harley Battle Dagger. Or for the intended use, a big Himalayan Imports Khukuri. All of them feel "right", they feel like they merge with your hand.

Of all the "cheap knives" I've ever handled, believe it or not the Buck Nighthawk feels very good in the hand. Cheap steel, daily utility will have you cursing the sharpening process, but as a cheap fighter not half bad.

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Size depends on concealability requirements and legalities. Bigger is better. Period :).

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Is the edge any good? (read: will it cut? See also Joe's sharpening FAQ)

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Only once all THAT is sorted out do I even care much about the blade shape. I've seen tests against old ballistic vests. Barring a hard trauma plate I can assure y'all, they'll ALL blow right through, even a friggin' sheepsfoot if you hold it right and use some muscle. Arguing about the penetration ability of a classic Tanto versus Americanized Tanto versus dagger or whatever, it's just laughable, they'll all work. Even Cold Steel's weird "Nogales" point on the Vaquero/El Hombre/Desperado.

IF you can hang onto the sucker and it holds together.
 
Tantos were used in Japan to cut off the heads of defeated enemies. This goes to show how useful the points were meant to be.

"American" tantos however, do have a reinforced point, which is mainly useful for penetrating car doors and 50 gallon cans in front of your friends. In today's streets, you aren't dealing with that much armor.

Reinforced or thick blades aren't usually as fast as true fighterblades. Thin points can penetrate clothing & leather without binding as much as a thick blade.
 
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