dunno
Initial removal of the nut and the barrel took scary torque. After I had the barrel cut, it didn't clock back to the same place when the head space was correct.
The threads on the receiver and barrel needed chased before things went back together smoothly.
Does it get easier?
The comment wasn't directed at anything you had posted. I appreciate you sharing your expertise with us.
I wasn't taking your comment personally, and hope you aren't taking my question as a challenge to it. When I don't understand something (and would like to), I ask for more detail. It's no surprise to suspect a foul game, since when I want to bury someone for talking out of their tailpipe, I'm also know to hand them a shovel by asking for more detail.
Your explanation is appreciated - and makes more sense than my initial inference from your comment. I inferred you were having issues in switching the barrels back and forth, which didn't make sense, but after your explanation of the issues during your "initial build up," your statement makes complete sense.
I'm not really a fan of switch barrel rigs, not for the novelty at least, but there are a few paradigms for which they make sense, I own a few, and have owned a few more. I've also rebarrled even more rifles on top of those. Once the initial build is done, life has always been easy, the barrel swaps go fast and easy, so I was surprised to hear your comments as if those swaps were hard.
But hearing your clarification about problems in the initial build makes much, much more sense. Every time I pull a factory barrel, I am reminded of how many times we've heard online that Remington or Ruger barrels and Savage barrel nuts are installed at the factory by a team of trained gorillas - because I'm convinced it is true! I've never worried about putting the factory barrel back on, so I always have to finish chamber the new barrel, but I'm not surprised to hear it didn't clock the same going back - factory barrels have to be headspaced to SAAMI spec, but that's a range, not a number, so your Go gauge could be very different (relatively) than what they used. I'd tend to expect they would use a LONGER go gauge than what I might buy from PT&G, to help reduce customer service issues.
Similarly, I've blue printed the action on any barrel I take time to pull, so my clocking will be inherently different anyway even if I did try to go back with the same barrel - and of course, that blue printing includes thread chase and truing. It makes sense though, when someone torqued the barrel to 100ft.lbs at the factory, those threads are "seated" and won't be happy about coming unseated, and especially so going back with a different barrel.
Anyways - thanks for the clarification - your comment makes complete sense now.
