I have read many complaints about DA Trigger pulls being too heavy. I did a write-up about my fix on another forum, and thought I'd share it here with others that might like to save their revolvers, if they still have them.
After about 4 years of sitting in a drawer, I've finally got my Taurus 94 to an almost S&W feel. But it took a lot of work.
About the DA trigger pull: the Wolff Springs DO lighten the pull, but do not offer consistently reliable ignition. Ideas of swapping for a steel hammer, or inserting a lead slug into the stock hammer have run thru my mind. But after really digging into this revolver, I've come to the conclusion that the stock spring is actually just fine. Probably perfect.
The Fix: SMOOTH AND POLISH MOVING PARTS! That includes everything involved in the reciprocation of the cylinder: the extractor rod, the center pin, cylinder bushing face, crane spindle, and the face of the ratchet (the "Star") that comes into contact with the recoil shield.
Polishing the entire extractor rod also makes ejecting spent casings smoother, easier. Heck, I even polished under the cylinder release thumb button. Smoooth cylinder swing-outs.
Looking under the sideplate, you may notice wear marks, scuffing, and scratches. Each of those are friction areas. I hand-polished with a stone, both sides of the hammer and trigger, and the side of the arm that rubs the sideplate. I polished the transfer bar front and back, as well as the left side that rubs against the sideplate and bolt. The bolt itself rubs against the left sideplate, the trigger, and transfer bar.
Polish those areas too. You can place the Hand Pin (as well as the Extractor Rod and Cylinder Pin) in a drill chuck and spin it to polish it faster. I also smoothed out the machining marks of the inside of the right sideplate. The only thing that should be done to the Main Spring, is polishing the Mainspring Center Pin where it rides the Mainspring Plate (or Bushing).
Polishing all of these areas combined will DRASTICALLY reduce the friction of the entire clockwork, and your DA pull will become immensely easier! Just imagine, glass on glass is smooth, add lubrication and its slippery as ice!
Insanely hard, grindy DA trigger pull: no more!
Smooth your DA pull even MORE by stoning trigger surfaces WITHOUT touching trigger to sear
contact surfaces :
My 94 would also bind up easily. I had to hand-rasp the the recoil shield, and cylinder face because they were out of square. My cylinder would also bind because there was too much wobble. The cylinder bushing spins freely between the cylinder and the crane, which creates TWO gaps that introduce wobble. I actually inserted a thin slice of soda can between the cylinder and bushing, so they are now one. No movement. The bushing still spins freely on the crane, wobble now cut in half.
It seems my revolver was made of good parts, but was handed to a child to assemble, and then there was no fit & finish QC afterwards. More fairly, I believe what is happening is certain steps are being skipped, on purpose, which is how Taurus is able to achieve their price point. If S&W, Colt, and Ruger build a revolver in 10 steps, Taurus does it in 8. They just skip the step where they clean up the individual parts before placing them within the frame.
This Taurus 94 is my first revolver, and it's teaching me a ton. With minimal tools and a McGyver-like engineering mindset, these things aren't a waste of money, but more like a premature baby that needs extra love and attention. There are many friction areas that need polishing, but each are small, and can all be done in one calm, peaceful evening.
What else...
If you have sticky cylinders, put an oiled brass .22 bore brush in a drill chuck and spin it inside each chamber. It'll really scrape that sucker clean!
If you lose the yoke screw, Midway has an S&W yoke screw that works, for cheap!
Looking for a 4" holster? Taurus small frames are closer in size to the Ruger SP101 than S&W j-frames