Taurus revolver cylinder sticking

[esq_stu]

Bought a Taurus 445 (44 special) used. It's my first internet auction lemon out of many purchases. I I'd like to turn it into to lemonade.

For starters, the DAO trigger pull was light. Some cylinders failed to fire due to suspected light strikes. I bought a factory hammer spring and now it fires on all chambers but another issue became apparrent.

After 1 round the trigger pull gets stiffer. After 2 or 3 rounds, it's too stiff to function. If I open the cylinder and turn it and maybe onload and reload or turn/wiggle the cases, I can get another couble of rounds before it sticks again.

I can barely see daylight between the cylinder and the forcinng come and between the brass and the breechface (if that's what it's called). I noted that there was no seizing friction when I put spent cases in the cylinder and dry-fire.

Should I polish these surfaces? What is an appropriate gap on each end? Any other suggestions?

BTW this will be my LAST Taurus revolver.

 

[firinginfenton]

Use a feeler gauge and measure the gap between the barrel and cylinder.
.004" is good, older Taurus revolvers were know for HUGE gaps of more than .008"
Yours fires OK with spent cases but binds after firing live rounds?
Push the center pin (inside the extracter) all the way in to see if it sticks.
VERY common problem on Taurus revolvers. Look for my previous post about repairing this issue.
I've had the cyl. bind while firing rubber bullets, no powder just primers. And the primers were backing out causing the cylinder to bind.

 

[esq_stu]

thank you firingfenton;

Actually, it seizes after 2 to 3 rounds. Each successive round the trigger pull/binding gets worse, so it actually starts binding after the first round and then gets worse from there. I never get to the 4th or th round unless I open the cylinder and wiggle everything and close it. Then the gradual seizing starts over.

I will look into the center pin sticking issue when I get home (I'm out of town on a business trip).