Teach me how to clean correctly...

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Afy

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I typically will spray the parts with Windex or something like it. Wash with high temp water. Soak in soap solution (boiling hot) and srub down with brass brush for the bore.. and the cylinder. Then tooth brush and more soap hot water... wipe dry and generous does of olive oil including recesses etc.
Wrap in plastic ziplock bag.
But I am not sure I am doing it right... since the cylinder interirors sometimes come out black when cleaned before shooting to remove the oil.

Still more questions:

How often do I need to Strip the pistol to the last screw?
How do I clean out the inside of the cylinder chambers.?
Should I switch from Olive oil to something else?
I am worried about rust especially since I dont strip down.
 
I 'm with you on most of it. I don't think I'd put anything in a plastic bag - let it all air dry (the bag would hold in moisture). I also use Bore Butter for the internals - that's what it's made for (or RemOil sometimes).
I strip and clean mine everytime I shoot - some don't, but I've seen what a little BP can do to the inside of a gun over time. Use a cleaning swab attachment (get the right size) to clean the cylinders and barrel - with hot soapy water, I don't need a brass or nylon brush to clean the barrel. Cleaning rags dipped in Bore Butter work well in getting the cylinders and barrel clean when all the scrubbing is done. Clean the nipple threads well. And remember that the spring loaded tips of the loading levers suck up water - push it down a few times on a paper towel to drain it out.
I'm sure others will post their cleaning techniques.
 
Definately avoid the plastic bag and use a cheap hairdryer to dry before oiling. Check it the next day to see if there are any problems if possible.
 
I disassemble down to basic components(cylinder,frame,barrel) clean barrel with wet patches then dry patches and use q-tips on wedge arbor and lever connections. Set cylinder in hot soapy water and pump shotgun cleaning rod with patch on end in and out of cylinder bores once with nipples in and again with nipples out. Set nipples in seperate container with hot soapy water and clean later with pipe cleaners. Wipe down frame with wet patches and q-tips and pipe cleaners. I only completely disassemble gun if I've run more than 2 or 3 cylinder loads through it or if I've shot the gun a few times without doing so. I've found that very little fouling makes it into the frame. I usually run pipe cleaners down into the hammer recess and up into the trigger opening. After cleaning I use my wife's hair dryer(she loves this)and dry all the parts as thouroghly as possible. I lube nipple threads and reinsert into cylinder reassemble gun and lube exterior especially lever links with olive oil and put it back into my cabinet. Check it every day for a few days make sure there are no rust problems. This usually takes me any where from an hour to an hour and a half. Longest part is usually the cylinder. The nipple recesses take a lot of work and several patches need to be put down cylinder bores before I'm happy.

Don
 
Baby bottle brush

Your cleaning sounds fine ..except ..i always use a nylon brush in my bores ..in the cylinder holes i use a baby bottle brush ..the small end fits tight in the cylinder holes of a 44 ..might fit a 36 cal too .. I don`t have a 36 . But anyway a cheap cleaning tool for B/P cleaning ..about 2 bucks at Walley world . And nothing works better for hot drying than the wife`s turbo hair dryer ...I always take the trigger guard off while cleaning ..but just for inspection and to flush through with hot water ...and a drop or 2 of olive oil when finished . I only do a complete break down about once a year ....and never find any rust or grime .
 
If you're not getting rust anywhere, then you're doing it right! If it ain't broke, don't fix it. :)

The black that you get out when you swab out the oil could be leftover fouling, or it might just be carbon. It's hard to get all the carbon out and it's nothing to worry about anyway. I use Ballistol mixed with water, but soapy water works just fine too. For rust protection, you might try a gun oil, Ballistol, or the very best rust proofers of all, CorrosionX or RIG. I don't know how good of a rust proofer olive oil is, as I've never tried it for that.

Sounds like you have a good cleaning procedure already.
 
Its a relief to know I am doing something right...
 
Those little packets of silica gel that come packed with electronic equipment are excellent for assuring the lock box or safe you store your firearms in is free of humidity. Last for a long time. You can probably get some for free at a computer store like Office Max.
 
The baby bottle brush is a good idea, thanks. I strip right down every time I clean. It's no hassle and I check all the bits for wear etc. I do pull through with a Windex soaked cloth after every cylinder and that makes it easier to clean after.
 
Another tip

The baby bottle brush is also a great cleaning tool for cleaning out the insides of the brass shotgun shells . I use the large end for this job.
 
A couple of things no longer do

I don't take my revolvers down to the last screw any longer. I had a hard time adjusting the trigger spring on a New Army when I put it back together once and have since learned that I only have to take a revolver down to the major parts to clean it plenty good enough for me.

Another thing I don't do any more is use any kind of oil but oil made for firearms to wipe a clean gun down with before storing it away. Stuff like WD40, which does displace moisture, also dries to a sticky mess over time.
 
A couple of things I no longer do

I don't take my revolvers down to the last screw any longer. I had a hard time adjusting the trigger spring on a New Army when I put it back together once and have since learned that I only have to take a revolver down to the major parts to clean it plenty good enough for me.

Another thing I don't do any more is use any kind of oil but oil made for firearms to wipe a clean gun down with before storing it away. Stuff like WD40, which does displace moisture, also dries to a sticky mess over time.
 
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