Teslong Bore Scope
- Thread starter Walkalong
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Yes it is. The major problem that some had was apparently when they coiled it too tightly which probably damaged the fiber optic carrier for the light which made the light defunct or damaged the light transmission from the tip to the sensor.
This picture was only saved in vga quality 640x480 and the scope's resolution technically is double that. The picture on my 27 inch monitor was excellent and I could pick up bits of copper fouling present in the lands and grooves just playing around with it as well as verifying that the throat and chamber were okay. I am going to try next with using some shrink tubing to go around the bore probe so that probe is centered in .30 -.32 caliber barrels and perhaps some rubber tubing sleeving for my big bores. I think that would help with image stability on videos a bit more.
One person commented that the picture seems more in 2D than 3D. A lot of that depends on the angle that you have the mirror as to how much depth you perceive--at 90 degrees to the land, you get a good sense of wear/roughness but less on rifling height/bore wear. If you rotate just a tiny bit then the lands versus grooves of the barrel become more distinct as you view the land with the lens angled. You will still have to slug a barrel for diameter etc. but it is enough to get a good sense of whether the barrel has structural problems. I have a couple of takeoffs including an old Krag barrel that is almost a smoothbore and one with a bore inclusion that I will try to grab some pix of next.
Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
Walkalong’s pics were fine but Boom’s really look good. What size are the respective bores?
All the tubes I would like to see into are .22 caliber, which would make the focus closer.
Have you tried them in one?
(Figures, all the big holes don’t lead, nor get shot enough to copper...
)
All the tubes I would like to see into are .22 caliber, which would make the focus closer.
Have you tried them in one?
(Figures, all the big holes don’t lead, nor get shot enough to copper...
)I did not find my worn out Krag barrel but did find a worn old Spanish Mauser 7x57 barrel along with a new Brownells .308 Mauser cheapo sporter barrel that has never been installed. Gives you some idea about what you might find.
First three pictures at the top left diagonally are the Brownell's cheapo Large Ring Mauser barrel and the last three at the right bottom diagonally are the Spanish Mauser.
Just remember rust and Samco special Spanish Mausers go together.
As you can see from the first two pix, cheaper non-lapped new blaster grade barrels can look pretty rough but by all accounts these barrel can shoot hunter grade 1-2 MOA. The third picture is the throat which looks fairly smooth.
This is a Spanish Mauser and and has rust present in the barrel pitting which is shown in the first picture. These barrels typically look quite dark from either end and the rust would need to be addressed if you ever plan on shooting this sort of barrel (which I am not), the second picture shows pitting in the rifle's chamber which can create problems on extraction among other things, and the last picture (at the bottom, shows the scaly features of a deteriorated rifle throat).
I usually try to shoot cast bullets in century old rifles with light loads but rusty barrels, rough throats, and pitted chambers demonstrated in the last three pictures are not something that I would ever want to shoot absent an emergency. People have stuck bullets in
I have not tried to adjust the focus in these pix but I did adjust the lighting. Dark bores need more light while the new bore using the same lighting would be a washout. The light adjustment feature is a bit crude but workable.
At least with my software, you can also shoot running video as you move the probe slowly down the bore--ideally you should have your rifle in a cleaning rack so it doesn't move and allow a lot of room in front of the bore as this scope will do a thirty inch barrel or more. If the barrel is off like these were, you can turn the barrel while holding the probe still to get a 360 of a problem area.
First three pictures at the top left diagonally are the Brownell's cheapo Large Ring Mauser barrel and the last three at the right bottom diagonally are the Spanish Mauser.
Just remember rust and Samco special Spanish Mausers go together.
As you can see from the first two pix, cheaper non-lapped new blaster grade barrels can look pretty rough but by all accounts these barrel can shoot hunter grade 1-2 MOA. The third picture is the throat which looks fairly smooth.
This is a Spanish Mauser and and has rust present in the barrel pitting which is shown in the first picture. These barrels typically look quite dark from either end and the rust would need to be addressed if you ever plan on shooting this sort of barrel (which I am not), the second picture shows pitting in the rifle's chamber which can create problems on extraction among other things, and the last picture (at the bottom, shows the scaly features of a deteriorated rifle throat).
I usually try to shoot cast bullets in century old rifles with light loads but rusty barrels, rough throats, and pitted chambers demonstrated in the last three pictures are not something that I would ever want to shoot absent an emergency. People have stuck bullets in
I have not tried to adjust the focus in these pix but I did adjust the lighting. Dark bores need more light while the new bore using the same lighting would be a washout. The light adjustment feature is a bit crude but workable.
At least with my software, you can also shoot running video as you move the probe slowly down the bore--ideally you should have your rifle in a cleaning rack so it doesn't move and allow a lot of room in front of the bore as this scope will do a thirty inch barrel or more. If the barrel is off like these were, you can turn the barrel while holding the probe still to get a 360 of a problem area.
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First post was a 7.65 Argentine Mauser, my last post was a Large Ring .308 Brownell Parkerized bambi blaster barrel and a Spanish 7x57 Mauser barrel. I'll try a couple of old .22's next. Be aware that the newer Teslong borescope does not have a case whether or not you see it in the Amazon ad. The probe and the USB connecting cable do separate.Walkalong’s pics were fine but Boom’s really look good. What size are the respective bores?
All the tubes I would like to see into are .22 caliber, which would make the focus closer.
Have you tried them in one?
(Figures, all the big holes don’t lead, nor get shot enough to copper...
BTW, Thanks Walkalong, I probably might not have bought one despite having use for one if you did not post your experience.
Walkalong’s pics were fine but Boom’s really look good. What size are the respective bores?
All the tubes I would like to see into are .22 caliber, which would make the focus closer.
Have you tried them in one?
(Figures, all the big holes don’t lead, nor get shot enough to copper...
Your wish is my command. I have attached some below for a recently purchased Marlin Model 783 that I have not got around to cleaning or shooting yet and a WWII era High Standard .30-06 barrel that was installed on a m1917 Rifle that actually shoots pretty well.
Surprisingly, I have not changed the focal length at all and only altered the lighting slightly. I did have to clean the mirror due to the fouling that it scraped out so some artist brushes and isopropyl alcohol might be useful to clean the mirror instead of their alcohol pads that the Teslong folks include.
You can tell the .22 WMR Marlin by the microgrooved barrel. I have the throat, midbore, and about one inch before the muzzle. Looks like it needs some cleaning before I shoot it and possibly some JB bore paste. The fouling is pretty bad toward the muzzle but the scope probe actually dislodged a bit of it so it is soft.
The boreshot of the 1917 is about mid bore and I did notice some light fouling toward the chambers. This rifle shoots fine at about 2-3 MOA which is about standard using cheap Prvi 150 gr. 30-06 or Monarch (also Prvi I believe from Academy).
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Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
Thank you kindly!
I think I’ll try it out.
I see Amazon also has some EGW rails for my Savage. So, if you’ll excuse me gentlemen....
Not to hijack Walkalong's thread, here is the same .22 WMR Marlin after using a bit of solvent, brushing it, and running a patch through it. Note the throat looks better here as there was carbon fouling and the lands have lost a bit of their frosting as you can see from the first picture. I only ran the bore brush down it twice, used a solvent mop, and then a dry patch.
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Not at all, your posts are a great addition.
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