Texas Wanna-be Reloader needs help

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taprackbang

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I want to get into reloading and / or loading my own ammo with new components. My rifle caliber is .308 and soon to be .300 Win Mag.
Pistol caliber is .40SW.

If I were to go to Cabela's tomorrow and buy the powder, primers, projectiles and brass for .308, what would I exactly buy? Could somebody give me a sample 'shopping list' of the EXACT powder brand, primer brand etc.?

If there is a reloading aficionado in the DFW area who would like a gopher / observer / pseudo-apprentice for a day or two, just PM me.. I live in South Arlington.
 
If you lived in Washington you could clean my gutters and mow my lawn in exchange for watching me reload, sounds like an even trade to me. BTW, the lawn and gutters would come first.
 
sierra 168gr BTHP--300 (~$90.00)
varget--2 pounds (~$40.00)
WLR--300 winchester large rifle primers (~$10.00)
brass i use Federal gold match

my house would appreciate a power wash:D
 
Now before you all start assuming that I will do your chores for you, let me specify what I meant.
I will help you RELOAD.

Gopher components, observe you load, and learn as an apprentice.

You guys are funny..
 
You realize I can't load until AFTER I'm done with the yardwork and I've got a really cool reloading room in the basement.
 
IF you go to Cabelas, make sure they have The ABC's of Reloading. Start by reading that. Then get a good reloading manual - I suggest either Lyman's 48th edition or Hornady's Seventh edition - and read the front matter of that.

Then read what others are using and about the types of presses and decide what you want. Then prepare to buy your equipment. When you are ready, post your list. You'll get the same amount of guff but you'll also get some good advice in the mix. Then you'll be ready to make your buy and while you're waiting for your hardware, you can be looking up a load for each of your guns.
 
Bushmaster, if I understood the depth of your humor I think I would need a breathing apparatus.
 
taprack......I'm in lewisville but only reload pistol stuff.

If itd help get you some idea you can come push a few rounds through my press....though I'm out of town the next few days.

What press are you using?
 
Bush Pilot. Id take you up on that offer if I was in your hood.
I also agree with NotSoFast. In a nut shell; we can't tell you what to do untill you know what you want. What type of bullet ect.
 
Taprack, if you can, I'd suggest waiting until the Dallas gun show to buy equipment and components, especially the components. They're typically quite a bit cheaper than at stores.
For primers any large rifle will do, really. I normally use CCI or Winchester; whatever happens to be the least expensive when I buy.

An exact powder for the 308...hmmm....tough choice. For a while, I used quite a bit of IMR4064, but Winchesters 748 and 760 are also very good. I now use surplus 4895 just because I have a large jug of it. I've found the 308 is not at all picky with regards to powder type as long as you stay within a reasonable burning rate range. Also, given the somewhat small case capacity of the 308, ball or spherical powders will yield higher velocities since this type powder fills the case more efficiently.

Brass, get any kind you want, but personally I prefer once fired. When I have to use new brass, I always feel the first loading is a waste since the brass hasn't been formed to a chamber yet. Right now on the Buy, Sell and Trade: Reloading Components and Gear page, there are two ads for milsurp once-fired 308 brass. One guy is selling 370 pieces for $40 shipped! (Side note: loads with military brass should be reduced around 5% due to heavier case walls.)

As far as bullets go, it depends greatly on what you'll be doing. If you want to do some serious target shooting, buy match hollowpoint type bullets. If you're hunting, especially deer or hogs, most any soft point weighing 150-165 grs. will be fine. If you're just informally shooting, any ol' FMJ military type bullet will do. This place: Widner's Reloading and Shooting Supply always has good buys on mil-spec bullets. Their .308 bullets are less than $13 per 100 which is a really good buy.

I live a couple of hours north of DFW, so that'd probably be a bit far for you to drive. Next weekend, I'll be teaching a reloading course through the 4H Club. I don't know if adults can attend or not as this is my first time to teach it, but I can find out if you like.
You'll find good instructional sections in most reloading manuals, but my favorite has always been the big Lyman manuals. They're very comprehensive and have tons of data.
Good luck, and let us know if you need more help!
35W
 
taprackbang, you do need to tell us just what you want to use your rifle(s) for, hunting, target? Powder requirements for Win. 308 is quite different from the 300 Winmag as a rule.

NCsmitty
 
Flyer I have not purchased any reloading equipment yet. I have an idea about what I will need as far as getting started. I am considering some RCBS gear from Cabelas.

35 Whelen thanks for the great info. Man I would love to attend a course on reloading. That would be very valuable.
 
taprackbang...Have you read the "Sticky" "For The New Reloader....."? It will help you pick out what you need. But Manuals would be the first thing I would get. The Lyman load manuals (48th or 49th Editions) are a real good start as they are only around $20 and have a lot of good starting information and lots of load data.

Shouldn't be a breathing problem...Just a seating problem...Staying seated that is...:D
 
Reading before reloading is vital. Get the ABC of Reloading and a manual and read it all. Lymans or Lee are both good, but they both focus on their own stuff.
 
Tap, you're on the right track with the RCBS equipment. Their stuff is rock-solid and will last for generations. I currently use an RCBS press my father purchased back iin the late '60's/early '70's. Alot of people recommend Lee reloading equipment, but the stuff I've used such as bullet moulds, powder scales, and powder measure have been cheesy.

Since you'll be precision/target shooting, I'd rule out surplus brass and stick with commercial. One's as good as another as far as I'm concerned.
As I said earlier, match hollowpoint bullets will be best if you're target shooting, although this group:
53K31Group2-1.gif
...was fired with Hornady bulk 150 gr. FMJ bullets. The expensive target bullets don't do much better out of this particular rifle.

I'll check into the course and find out what the requirements for attendees will be.
35W
 
Taprackbang: Before purchasing anything I'd look through old posts in this forum, attempting to glean as much information as possible. Next go down to the library to see if you can find the ABCs of reloading, or any other reloading manuals they might have. After having read the books a couple of times through, then you need to look at equipment. I would offer the suggestion of the Lee Classic Press - it is VERY sturdy, relatively low cost, and will load up to 50 BMG! Next is an accurate powder scale and set of check weights - my favorite is the Ohaus 10/10, still available on eBay, and I think RCBS or someone has now put their label on it. You won't go wrong with this scale, and it and the press will outlast you if you take care of them. Next get a reliable powder measure, dies, loading trays, and a brass trimming system. I use the Lee trimming system - if you chuck up the collet in a cordless drill you can trim hundreds of cases an hour sitting in front of the TV in the cool of the living room. Then, you will need a good tumbler for cleaning your brass. I recommend the tumbler that Midway USA sells, the Frankford Arsenal. Not too expensive, but does the work just fine. I really recommend MIDWAY USA for most reloading supplies and firearm accessories - their service is great, prices are about the best around, and if you get your C&R license they will give you big discounts on a lot of items. There are many other doodads and gadgets that will make life easier, but these are the basics.
But, I wouldn't purchase anything until I read the above-mentioned books to have a clear understanding of the loading sequence. You can't be too careful - if you aren't a detailed type of person, and if you don't develop good safety processes, you can get in trouble in a hurry.
 
Tap,
I am in North Arlington and if you want to get together we can run through the basics. I have everything here except for the dies you need. If you are so inclined, I will assist you in the basics and show you what I do for rifle and/or pistol. If you want to pick up a die set locally, great. If not, I can order the set for you and save a bit of cash, and then you would have them for your press when you get it.

I'll be back in town Sunday evening. Just holler.
 
Whelen that is a nice group with your K31. I would post that too if it were mine! I have heard that you can get those groups and better with handloading.

Hey Griz I sent you a PM. Thanks.
 
There are a tremendous amount of advantages of reloading. for sure if i were you i would start of small a single stage press for the rifles. learn on them first. then when you gain the experience check out a progressive for your handguns.

cabelas has pretty much the best price and shipping. Dont forget lee. the lee anniversary kit is a very good kit. everything minus the dies. As there is just too many calibers. after that get the dies and powder. I would suggest doing what a lot of us did. get a good caliper for measuring then load up some fake rounds without powder and primers to get the feel of things. then you can do the real thing. its not hard at all. But its important to read as much as you can. come back here anytime and as us the most you can. we have all been in your situation. We all know what it takes.
 
Texas Extremes

As I handload more and more, I realize my chronograph reads 100 fps faster for every 10 degrees of ambient temperature rise: 70 degrees=3350 fps; 80 degrees=3450 fps; 90 degrees=3550 fps. Michigan temps rarely exceed 80 degrees, but Texas can and does hit 105 degrees. This extreme should indicate that a Texan must load-up only to what weather conditions will allow. A WAG would be to drop .3 grain of powder for every 10 degree rise in temperature over 70 degrees concerning hot loads. Factories cannot predict where or when their ammo will be used, so they must opt on the safe (slower) side of velocity. Handloading offers experimentation beyond anything any factory can safely offer. Altitude is another factor concerning safe loadings. Texas at coastal levels offers more velocity than Colorado mountains will support with the same load. My Michigan loads are designed for high humidity at 80 degrees Fahrenheit at 700 feet above sea level. WHEN I come to Texas, I will drop .5 to 1.0 grains off my top-end loads, depending upon the time of year. Handloading is a very satisfying hobby, and produces superior loads that can be adjusted to meet current weather conditions. Primer faces offer the best guide to maximum safe loads: when a primer hit "craters," back off some powder, or wait till temperature subsides twenty degrees and try that load again. Handloading is a never-ending learning scenario. cliffy
 
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