The Basic Reloading Supplies

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I've read the primer on reloading that this forum offers and I have several more reloading documents that I am going to read. But I have questions that I am hoping you all might answer since I am still not exactly sure what I need to get started. And to be honest I am intimidated by the machine because I have never been around one and don't know what everything is, just yet.

Basically I want to reload 9mm and .223 ammunition and only desiring about 200-500 rounds a month of each. I am not insanely adept at 'dohicky' type equipment (which is probably why I still am not sure about what I need) and so I prefer to start simple till I get the hang of things and I get a better job.

If someone can post a pic or two of their reloading set-up and give me some pointers on the essential items that I would need are, I'd be obliged.

I am looking at the Lee Turret Press or the Lee Pro 1000.

PS. How many times can you reuse the same brass?
 
Based on your requirements, I would recommend the following as a "very nice" starter setup:

Lee Classic Cast Turret press
Combo large/small primer Safety Prime
Lee Pro Auto Disk
Lee Auto Disk Riser
Lee rifle charging die
Lee Deluxe 4-die pistol die set in 9MM
Lee Deluxe rifle die set in .223
Hornady, RCBS 505 beam powder scale
Frankford Arsenal Tumbler and rotary sifter combo
RCBS Trim Pro
RCBS Trim Mate

You don't have to, but this would be another nice addtion:

Lee Classic Cast single stage (useful for various tasks you'll run into, such as swaging if you use military brass - get the CH4D swager for 20 bucks from CH4D or decapping with a Lee Universal decapper to decap before tumbling)

I would recommend the Lee Classic Cast presses over the standard Lee Turret or Pro 100 because they are cast iron, have a high quality compound linkage system and an excellent "away from the press" primer disposal system.

Regards,

Dave
 
Lee Classic Turret Setup +1

Here is a great link showing how to set up the Lee Classic Turret Press from their website. It gives lots of pix and you can really see how things go together and how it operates--

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/leeturretpress/index.asp

Here is a link to a video that shows the press in operation--

http://www.leeprecision.com/html/HelpVideos/videos/Turret Press/loading 45 case-1.wmv

With a little practice and good organization of components it is easy to load 200+ rounds per hour.

IMHO it is the best setup you could buy for any amount of money in the auto-indexing turret field. Here is a place where you can buy a kit, that includes dies, from people who reload and know what they are talking about--

http://www.kempfgunshop.com/products/reloading/leeprecision/kits/KempfKit.html

My only suggestion is to go for the upgrade to the Pro Autodisk Powder Measure if you decide on this press.

I started with this last summer and would not want to be without it. I have loaded several thousand rounds of pistol ammo in 5 different calibers. Buy extra turrets so you can change calibers in minutes--priming change is simple too with the Lee Safety Prime system. The turrets and the Lee carbide dies are as inexpensive as any in the market and are very high quality.
 
Thanks everybody.

If I bought the kit from Kemp the only things I would need to buy are the following:

Lee Deluxe rifle die set in .223
Hornady, RCBS 505 beam powder scale
Frankford Arsenal Tumbler and rotary sifter combo
RCBS Trim Pro
RCBS Trim Mate

Correct?

The rifle dies are interchangable with the pistol onesight? And how many times can I reload the same brass?
 
You would also want to buy an additional turret for each set of dies. Brass life varies due to a variety of factors. No way to tell you how long it will last.

Regards,

Dave
 
Your first step is buying the best reference book or what I call Reloading for Dummies or The ABC's of Reloading from Krause Publications.

There are several great reloading manuals of the real kind not the freebee ones! Paperback manuals are good for cross referencing data, at times. For meaty manuals a person can not go wrong with the Lyman48th and Sierra. One must always look at the loads when you compare data. Especially in larger calibers as some data might be using different brass from yours. Case in point Hodgdon used WW brass to work up loads with, whereas Sierra used Fed cases in their 308 Winchester loading information.

Press - Single Stage or Turret presses are the best way to learn before advancing to any kind of progressive press. You will always have need for a single stage press. Redding and RCBS are good sources of all kinds of presses. RCBS Rockchucker Supreme for a single stage and Redding T7 for a turret press are basically the gold standard for press types.

Dies - I like Redding Dies, and I would get the carbide expander ball upgrade for bottle neck rifle cases. Dillon makes carbide rifle sizer dies, but you still need to use case lube and make sure you lube the inside of the case neck, too. I would just stick with regular dies for rifle cartridges. Dillon makes die sets specifically for their press so to speak, meaning that it does not come with a case mouth belling die; Redding makes a set of dies for progressive presses, too. I like Forster competition seaters, and they can be had as an individual item. Dies are pretty much threaded universally, except for Lyman 310 dies, and Dillon dies for the Square Deal N. Accuracy nuts will use hand dies, and they require an arbor press be used.

Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them like Lee) or the appropriate shell plate for the progressive press. Remember that many shell holders work for more then one cartridge. I would do some home work, especially if you get a Dillon. Some cartridge conversions might only require you to get powder funnel for the new cartridge.

A tumbler will be a good investment, as clean cases will not harm you dies. There are vibratory and rotary tumblers out there. I like corn cob media treated with some Iosso case polish. You can get walnut in bulk at Petco or Pet Smart. Bulk corn cob grit is a great way to reduce the cost of commercially supplied media, because you pay through the nose for the treated media from other vendors.

MTM makes great loading block tray that handles most cartridges.

Case Lube is great for both conventional dies, and to treat your brass used in a progressive press even with carbide dies. That extra lubricity makes the cycling of the press a tad slicker! Dillon spray lube works well for shake and bake application. I like Imperial Die Wax for rifle cartridges when FL sizing.

Case Neck Brush to clean bottleneck rifle cases

Dial Calipers

Case Trimmer (Lee works, but Possum Hollow is better, Wilson makes the best hand powered Lathe trimmer, and Giraud is the best powered Trimmer)

Deburring/Chamfering Tool

Primer Pocket Cleaner and uniformer

Primer Flip Tray is needed for loading pick up tubes for some primer systems like the Dillon.

Priming Tool (I like the RCBS (now even better with universal shell holder, but Sinclair makes the best)

Powder Scale - remember that is always better to have a mechanical scale as a back up to any electronic scale.

Powder Funnel kit with drop tubes especially if you intend to use powders like Varget.

Powder Trickler (used to tweak powder charges )

Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges it does require a bit of learning curve to get consistent powder charges sort of rhythm thing) standard with progressive presses, but the RCBS Uniflow is nice! Redding makes a better one, and Harrell is the gold standard!

Hammer Type Bullet Puller (for taking down the boo boo's)

Ammo boxes and labels

A notebook for recording your results! Saves covering the same ground twice!

A chronograph is great when working up loads, but is more a luxury in the beginning.
 
Yeesh. Getting started in reloading is more expensive than I thought!

What do you guys actually pay per round for reloading 9mm and .223? I mean, if I am going to invest all this money and time, I need to see some figures. I'm not saying it won't be worth it, but it is a bit discouraging when you add up stuff like two turrets, scale, tumbler, calipers, etc. on a poor history majors part time UPS salary.

Right now I pay about $15.00 per 100 rounds of 9mm.
I have never bought .223 as yet because I do not get my AR for another week, but its roughly $10-12 per 20 unless I buy russian.

So encourage me with your savings!!!

(PS.. When I shoot I dont do it for competition--not yet--and so I merely punch holes in paper that sillouette the body incase I ever have to drop a bad guy. That and I find accuracy stimulating. So these are the types of rounds I am going to be loading).
 
It pays off to reload, very handsomely!

I buy in larger quantities--4 # of powder; 5000 primers; 1-2000 bullets at a time. For 9mm my cost right now, excluding brass which I pick up or buy once-fired in bulk--is $9.90/100 rounds.

We shoot about 500 rounds of 9mm per month so by your price I would be saving about $25/month. That just paid for the Lee DeLuxe Carbide Pistol Dies!

I save over 50% on .38 Spec. and 45 ACP--that's where the big savings are. Around here 100 45 ACP Win White Box, with tax, are about $27. I can load them for $10.90, again leaving out any cost for brass. I bought about 2500 used 45 cases when I started last year--spent about $60. They will last forever! There are some military cases in the whole mess, some with dates from WWII.

Here -- you can run your own numbers with this online calculator--

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

The secret is to buy in bulk. Even if you have to buy brass it lasts a long time. You can also get good deals on brass through this forum and eBay--lots of guys selling the stuff.
 
I second the Lee classic press - I have used several presses and this is by far the best; very sturdy, no problems after thousands of rounds with it.

There are other things to consider other than price - if I added in my time, at any reasonable rate - my ammunition would be prohibitively expensive.

The amount of knowledge you gain about firearms, ballistics, etc., by learning to load, test your loads, develop, chronograph, etc. your loads is invaluable. You will never know much, nor be able to repeat results precisely by purchasing your ammo from wally world. And you take a chance on purchasing ammo that may damage your gun - I have seen it more than once with new store-purchased ammunition.

You will save money, however, if you do not count your time preparing brass, and all of the other steps necessary to create good reliable, quality ammunition.

And you may find it to be a relaxing, rewarding hobby - something on which you are unable to place a dollar value.

It's a great feeling to take a bag of dirty once-shot brass, and turn that bag into boxes of shiny, uniform, and accurate ammunition.:D
 
Basically I want to reload 9mm and .223 ammunition and only desiring about 200-500 rounds a month of each. I am not insanely adept at 'dohicky' type equipment (which is probably why I still am not sure about what I need) and so I prefer to start simple till I get the hang of things and I get a better job.
Click to expand...
it is a bit discouraging when you add up stuff like two turrets, scale, tumbler, calipers, etc. on a poor history majors part time UPS salary.
Click to expand...
Based on these comments I'd have to say you sound like a candidate for the Lee Anniversary Kit. I like my classic turret but initial cost going into it is quite a bit more than the anniversary kit. The anniversary kit also comes with other items you'll need such as a scale, case trimming parts, hand priming tool, powder thrower, and sometimes even a reloading book.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...&parentType=index&indexId=cat20847&hasJS=true
or
http://www.grafs.com/fc/product/92826
(Graf's price includes a book and shipping)
If you decide to upgrade to a turret later you really won't be out much money for stuff you wouldn't have needed. Also, check out Harbor Freight for a tumbler and calipers.
You're looking at reloading the least cost saving round for pistol there is. You're savings will be with the .223. IMO cut your teeth on a low cost single stage and go from there.
 
I have never bought .223 as yet because I do not get my AR for another week, but its roughly $10-12 per 20 unless I buy russian.
Click to expand...

You should be able to find cheaper than this without needing to go russian (maybe $7 a box if you search hard enough)
 
setting up

go lee as recomended i have several,with the turret a change over is quick.turn turret out replace remove shell holder and replace= done.
if you get the tumbler you wont need primer cleaner ect.
harbor tool has verniers for $15[6 in]get their cat.order lee cat/lymans/rcbs/redding.also graf.com-midsouthshooter.com.you do not need trickler.powder measure will give you accurate charges stay away from hot loads.
 
G_W:

Where do you get your components with shared Hazmat on primers and powder? I have been buying locally but my sources are running dry and I'm going to have to consider online purchases. It looks like the shipping is minimal too from your numbers.

Thanks.
 
Hello benedict1,

From Graf & Sons. $20 hazmat covered both primers and powder. Fixed $3.95 S&H per order. http://www.grafs.com/

Powder Valley will cover up to 48# of primers and powder for one hazmat fee. S&H variable.
http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/
I haven't yet ordered from Powder Valley. If they charge 'honest' UPS rates based on weight and zone then they compete with Graf's, maybe better.:)
 
Graf's was more expensive than my local, but I'm sure I can attribute that to the paid shipping. Powder Valley looked good, but not by much. Either way that $20 hazmat sucks. I'll be more thankful for my local.
 
Powder Valley and Graf Comparison--

Thanks--I just ran some numbers on the same order at both stores and it looks like Graf and Son is considerably higher than Powder Valley--the order was mixed--4# ea.Unique, Win 231; 2# ea. Green Dot, Clays; 5K ea.Large and small pistol primers; 1K shotshell primers--they bury the shipping in the product cost at Graf.

Total at Powder Valley before final shippng charges was $380
Total at Graf and Son with their $3.95 shipping was $442.

These both included the Hazmat fee for a shared powder/primer order. I just checked UPS std. ground delivery for a 20# box from Kansas to my zip and it is about $19 without insurance, which PV will add.

Looks like Powder Valley is the current low price leader. However, the way prices are escalating that can change at any moment!-:(
 
I ran the numbers and concluded the same; PV was less expensive IF they didn't pad the S&H. Trouble is I won't know until I've placed the order.
 
I just telephoned Powder Valley and placed the order--shipping is going to be less than $20. Looks like they are the best deal out there right now. But prices are wobbling like crazy. If you have the $$ you ought to order now. Who knows what it will look like in the summertime.
 
That's good news re PV's shipping costs. I just now checked PV's prices for 8# WSF and 5000 CCI SPP. Same as Feb 15 when I last checked.

It's a bit crazy that I'm now depending on Wally's to keep increasing their prices in order to maintain a reasonable "payback". On that I can depend!;)
 
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