The economics of reloading

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Roll Tide Roll, CLP.

FWIW the reason I got into it was to have a steady supply of revolver ammo in a state that is constantly floating legislation to kill off internet ammo sales. I'm stocked up on .223, 9mm, and .308 but am always depleting and RELOADING my .38Spl, .44mag and .357mag rounds. I too am awaiting the inevitable split cases from being on round 7 or 12 into the case's life cycle. :)

Susie... it IS a lot like chem lab which explains why many of us love it so much. Not trying to dissuade you from a great hobby, but it ain't for everyone. :uhoh:
 
chem lab. ewww!
yuck.

ansel, does that scale attach to the press somehow?
i need to automate as much as possible.
 
If you look at that "kit" I linked to, it has a very good powder measure. Yes, you can get one powder say HP 38 (yes the 38 is for 38 special)

Once you set the powder charge on the RCBS it is going to be the same.

You load 50 case in the tray and look at each one (yes you can do that);)

All look the same? OK put a bullet on top and seat them in the press.

Really not at all like Chem Lab which I took a lot of. It's the internal/external ballistic Physics that will get you!:D;)
 
Susieq .... I am not much of a "cook" .... but I have been reloading since 1965 .... Reloading is much like baking cookies ... follow the recipes .... Reloading Manuals are reloader's "Recipe Book" ... easy as pie .....
 
thanks, guys.
i shouldn't have to mess with ballistics.
i know the standard bulls eye load people use is 2.7 gr of bullseye powder
to push a 148gr wad cutter.
if it's good enow for competitors it's good enow for me.
the magtech wad cutters i think are loaded like that n they give me one ragged hole at 25 yards.
no, i can't do that freehand. that's rested on my rain barrel.
 
is there such a thing as a press that gives proper powder amounts all the time?
it's the weighing n measuring that puts me off.
i read someone said to weigh powder ever 10 rounds. this would take forever.
i understand if you change powder you'd have to recalibrate, but what if i bot a full keg of one powder n stuck with that?
Visual inspection of powder charge is best for new reloaders and i would avoid powder check dies. With that being said, you will find that the eyes will get use to seeing how much powder is suppose to be in the case and deviations will be noticeable.

As far as a perfect charge everytime, well even manufacturers cant do that and since the charge is the most dangerous thing that most often goes wrong in kabooms, its best to get it right. Supporting the reason to check loads both visually and by scale.

Also an affordable digital scale helps to read the charges much faster. No need to wait on beams every time. Although i would recommend using the check weights to insure the digital scale is working properly on start up.

After a while you will get a rhythm going and be banging out rounds with ease.

I



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I don't save anything, I shoot way more :). But the reality is, I make the loads like I want them. My wife likes to shoot my 44mag, but she doesn't like factory 44spl, I make a nice light load for her, and she has fun with that gun. I shoot the 44 mags, moderate lead, and higher plated, but still softer than full house loads. I load so I can shoot a lot of target practice. Plus it's fun :).
 
CLP,
All good points. Reloading is a hobby unto itself that supports the main hobby of shooting. Casting your own is yet another extension of the hobby.
I haven't gotten into casting yet, but I am gathering the equipment and supplies. Sometime this summer I will cast my own bullets.

There are many ways to approach the economies. All told, I'm in the shoot more camp, or at least do it for a much lower per round cost. As many here I have some calibers where if it wasn't for the reloading there would be no inexpensive way to shoot them. 30-40 Krag, Both Jap rounds, and a few others.

Some say 9MM is not economical, but, I just loaded 500 rounds of 124 gr 9MM this weekend @ 10.6-11 cents each.

I also agree with you 9MM brass is plentiful and free for the picking in most places. So are the more common rounds too.
 
Susieqz,

It is not chem lab or rocket science, but it does take some following directions, recipes, and more importantly, adhering to some basic principles and being consistent.

You are right that there are some tried and true formulas for a good/great load. The key is duplicating it.

A decent set up, with a powder measure, decent scale, press and dies won't set you back too much. There are a couple of good recommendations above.

And you don't need to know all about ballistics or chemistry. Just understand the basics of reloading and work within the margins.

Lastly, you can reuse those pieces of brass you have for a very long time. So you can cut that $.40 per round way down and pay off the equipment in a very short time.
 
thank you, guys.
i guess i'll try it.
the hobby thing is male, so for me it'll be a chore, but i'm
used to chores.
 
Visual inspection of powder charge is best for new reloaders and i would avoid powder check dies. With that being said, you will find that the eyes will get use to seeing how much powder is suppose to be in the case and deviations will be noticeable.

As far as a perfect charge everytime, well even manufacturers cant do that and since the charge is the most dangerous thing that most often goes wrong in kabooms, its best to get it right. Supporting the reason to check loads both visually and by scale.

Also an affordable digital scale helps to read the charges much faster. No need to wait on beams every time. Although i would recommend using the check weights to insure the digital scale is working properly on start up.

After a while you will get a rhythm going and be banging out rounds with ease.

I



Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
Agree 100% with this. I've been reloading rifle and pistol for just under 40 years, and I still hand throw every charge, then seat the bullet immediately. Never had a squib load doing it that way. Friends with progressives get them regularly. (OK, maybe 1:10,000, but that's still too many for me.) Plus I can be 100% sure my weight is exact, this gets me the accuracy I started loading for in the first place.

If you are loading light loads like the 2.7 of Bullseye under a 148 gr. DEWC, it is imperative that you develop a regimen to prevent double charges. It is very easy to do with such charge weights-that's why I seat the bullet immediately after verifying the level in the case. Redundant checking may slow you down a bit, but it will build confidence in your reloading regimen, as well as the reliability and accuracy of the ammo you produce.
 
My economics of reloading.
1. Budget of $200
2. Go to store and see $800 worth of powder and primers I "need".
3. Buy all $800 worth and blow the budget.
4. Repeat ad nauseam.

I know I'm not alone and I will never say I save money reloading. I do it be self sufficient and because I enjoy doing it. Compared to other hobbies reloading is cheap. I've saved tens of thousands by picking up reloading and dropping modifying cars. So I may very well be ahead :)
 
I started reloading out of curiosity; "I wonder if I can do anything with these?" as I dumped 6 empties outta my .38 Special.

Normally I ignore "cost of reloading vs. factory ammo" type posts, but, I used to consider everything on a cost/money basis, "was those green beans worth .03 more than these green beans?". I grew up with a father that went through The Depression, and it was ingrained in me; money is everything. I heard the lard and onion sandwich stories over and over. It took me over 50 years to break that thought process and enjoy life (I did not swung fully to the other side and throw money away, just did not consider every thing on a "how much does it cost me" basis).

My wife taught me that I worked 55 years for what I have and I deserve a little "play money" so I have no idea what my reloaded ammo costs versus store bought ammo. I think I'd reload if factory ammo was in fact cheaper, its my hobby, and I like reloading!
 
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