the old krylon paint job picture thread.

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rozziboy18

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hey guys,
i know im not the only one here that has tryed there hand at painting.

lets see some pics of your diy paint jobs be it krylon, duplicolor, dura coat,

ect...



black hawk holster
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reversed test on a old 10/22 stock
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Not very intricate but here is a rifle that got the "Krylon touch".

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Here is one that is DuraCoated and Krylon.

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I know you guys want pics, But i have a question.
Wouldn't Krylon paint be a mess on metal unless you properly prep it by sanding it down to the steel and then primer coating and then the paint and then a sealer?
Ive seen how the plastic paint from Krylon that worked well from what ive seen.

And not to put anyone down for what they do to their own guns, But i see DuraCoat a step above the spray paint from Krylon as most use a bake on type that while not the most durable should be more so than just spray paint?

I have used Krylon on a trigger for a 1911 so i could physically see if i wanted it black or bare aluminum before sending it to the refinisher, It actually held up for the 2 weeks it was on there before i shipped it out. But not a long term solution on metal imo.
 
I painted a shotgun. It has held up great for years. Krylon won't stand up to a metal on metal spot and I have some wear at the pump with it. But overall it has been very durable.

I did prep it, sand it, clean it, primed it and let it sit for two days between coats. Krylon does dry to the touch in a few minutes but it takes a good day to cure and more time is better. I would not paint a prized rifle with it but it worked great for my beater 870.
 
I rebelled after seeing so many camo jobs on a previous paint-job thread . . . here's the result, on my .223 Saiga . . . it wasn't until I'd completed the job that I realized it looked like a classic pin-ball machine.
 

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I know you guys want pics, But i have a question.
Wouldn't Krylon paint be a mess on metal unless you properly prep it by sanding it down to the steel and then primer coating and then the paint and then a sealer?
Ive seen how the plastic paint from Krylon that worked well from what ive seen.

And not to put anyone down for what they do to their own guns, But i see DuraCoat a step above the spray paint from Krylon as most use a bake on type that while not the most durable should be more so than just spray paint?
I think what we have going on here is, those who do it as art, and those who do it for practicality, and are less worried about the art aspect of it. Like a lot of pics you see of peoples guns, you usually see two types, guns that are treated like safe queens and babied, and guns that show honest use, and a little wear is just part of it. I think youll find the same thing in the paint world.

Krylon just sprayed on a couple of my guns has held up about the same as anything else, which is actually very good. I myself usually use Testors Military Flats, since they have been around forever (Ive been panting my guns since the 60's) and have pretty much any color you might need to match a pattern. The biggest advantage to using something like Testors is, it is removable, if you chose to do so later, and its also easily touched up down the road if you wish.

Personally, I think the paint job gets better with age, and is best left alone as you go, or at least until its getting to the point it "really" needs refreshing.

The whole purpose to all of this is to break the outline of the gun and help it blend. You really dont even need to have a pattern, just the right colors and some breakup. A gun is a gun and people know what one looks like. A little light base coat and some contrasting stripes, and even fairly close up, its no longer a gun, except maybe under some scrutiny.

Durability wise, these shotguns have been painted (Testors) about 25 years now. Neither has been touched up. You can see wear points, but overall, things are still working well. They actually look better in the pics than they do in real life, especially if you look close. Up close, they are covered in little dings and nick's as well as the wear points.

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This was one of my last paint jobs. Its an old AK done in Multicam. Its a mix of Krylon and Testors. I've almost got the colors down, just not quite. Still, as you can see, it really doesnt matter, as break up is accomplished.
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Here's one i did just to see how well Kryon would work, followed by one I painted just becaue the black stock was boring. I may do a digital camo job on it later.

The nice thing about Krylon is the low cost and th ability to remove it airly easily if you want to sell your rifle without the camo job.

The Centerpoint was on there just to experiment with scope painting.
BushmasterAR15camo1.jpg

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One more - lightweight hunting rig Rem 700 7mmRM that normally wears a Redfield scope (hadn't bought it when I took this picture).
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Rustoleum baby!
Prepped with steel wool, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, 2 coats of primer and five coats of paint.
 

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Krylon Camo flat black and OD green over Rustoleom primer on my 870:

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Same colors, plus Krylon camo flat tan, as used on an old airsoft rifle of mine for practice before I painted the 870:

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I know the schemes, especially the 870, won't be to most people's taste, but I like them. The 870 does actually look a lot better in person. Ironically though, considering it was "practice", I think the rifle job looks better and probably does a better job of breaking up the lines. If I had to do it again, I'd make the black stripes on the 870 thinner and more random, like tiger stripes. Doesn't matter though, I'm satisfied.

I know you guys want pics, But i have a question.
Wouldn't Krylon paint be a mess on metal unless you properly prep it by sanding it down to the steel and then primer coating and then the paint and then a sealer?
Ive seen how the plastic paint from Krylon that worked well from what ive seen.

And not to put anyone down for what they do to their own guns, But i see DuraCoat a step above the spray paint from Krylon as most use a bake on type that while not the most durable should be more so than just spray paint?

I have used Krylon on a trigger for a 1911 so i could physically see if i wanted it black or bare aluminum before sending it to the refinisher, It actually held up for the 2 weeks it was on there before i shipped it out. But not a long term solution on metal imo.

In my opinion, it's not a big deal. I only painted my 870 because it had the dreaded horrible finish on 870 Expresses and was rusting like crazy. Instead of sending it off to be refinished I decided to just spend a few bucks and do it myself. I'm happy with the job I ended up with. Yes, it rubs off a bit where the slide contacts the mag tube and a couple other high-wear areas, but my 870 is far from a safe queen. Besides, it'll only cost a few dollars at most to touch it up in the future.

For less than $10 in paint, I nipped my 870's rusting problem in the bud and made it look snazzy to boot. What's to complain about?
 
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With cerakote going for $45 for a small kit plus the hazmat shipping I resorted to using the Duplicolor Hi Heat 1200F Ceramic paint that recommends baking it for several hours. Sold for exhaust header painting.

After a good prep job and degreasing I have used it on a steel folding floorplate on my M1A, baked it at 300F for two hours, did the same think with an old 1911 truck gun, the finish came out great, not fantastic but more durable than regular paint.
 
She asked about pink but I told her for a Tree Rat gun it needed to be Camoed. I used Johnson grass and Oak tree leaves to form some of the pattern on the stock.
 
With how affordable the brownells bake on stuff and how durable it is, why would you bother with krylon?
 
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