Thinking About Getting Into Reloading

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ObsidianOne

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Never had any experience with reloading what-so-ever. I'm going to buy a couple of the reccomended books.
I'm going to start with The ABC's of Reloading and Metallic Cartridge Reloading.

The press I'm looking at (since I'm somewhat on a budget here) is the Lee Challenger Kits.
However, I can't figure out the difference between these two besides the price :banghead:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=121744

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=423081

For reloading dies, what would you reccomend? The 3 die kit or 4?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=661032

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=242098

A digital caliper

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=417494

Scale (Reviews say the Lee scale is trash)

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=175512

Case Length Gauge

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=190644

Am I missing anything?

How many bullets, brass, primers, and powder should I order to start with?
 
Brass: have as much as you can comfortably store. There's really no such thing as too many.
All other expendables: purchase them in lots as small as possible to validate the load you are trying. Then buy them in big lots. It's usually cheaper and gives you a hedge against price hikes/availability issues.
I've never had trouble with 3-die kits. Grab them up.
 
I started with a Lee Challenger kit five years ago and (with a little JB Weld) still works fine. I've loaded thousands of rounds with it. From the list it looks like you've got it figured out. I supplemented my basic start up with digital calipers and case guages as well. However, I have used the beam scale included with to load batches of rounds that when chronographed have just over 11 fps standard deviation. So, if you want a digital scale buy it last, after you've sort of got the hang of reloading. Lastly, you may want to locate a support group for yourself or your signifacant other. Reloading can be (a little) addictive.
 
Before you buy anything you really should read This Thread first. After you read the entire thread then come back and ask about anything you're not sure about.

One think though, IMO a set of calipers might be more useful than that case length gauge you linked to.
 
"...difference between these two..." Hi. The Breech Single Stage Kit comes with the hand held 'Auto-Primer' and shell holders for it. It doesn't use the same shell holder as the press. Daft thing that it is. It's something that you can live without. Does let you prime while sitting in front of the TV though. It's easier to see the difference on Lee's site. http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Reloading-Kits/
"...3 die kit or 4..." The 4 die set comes with Lee's Factory Crimp Die that's not used for .45ACP. It's for rifle cartridges. Most of them don't need crimping at all. Doesn't hurt, but you really only need a taper crimp die for .45. Taper crimping only for a .45. The 3 die seater will do that. Only the sizer and Crimp die are carbide.
Throw the dippers away and only use the scale and powder thrower. The dippers can vary the powder charge plus of minus a full grain. That's not good.
You don't need the case guage when you have the calipres.
The Lee scale will do nicely, but an electronic scale is easier to read.
"...How many..." You not keep your brass? Other than increased accuracy that's kind of the point of reloading. If you didn't buy as much as you can afford. It's best to buy components locally. Shipping costs for bullets and Hazmat fees for powder and primers is expensive.
Buy 1,000 primers, but don't buy bullets or powder in bulk until you've worked up a load. You'll have to decide if you're going go with the more expensive jacketed bullets or cast. And what powder you'll use. Shooting jacketed bullets regularly gets expensive quickly. Midway isn't the best place for components, pricewise, anyway.
My Colt likes cast 230 grain RN's or FP's(Flat Points.) with Bullseye and regular large pistol primers. Which brand of primer isn't terribly important for handgun loads.
"...11 fps standard deviation..." Means all of the ammo Mokin loaded are within 11 fps of each other. Consistency is a very good thing.
 
Just two points, Sunray

Dippers can be consistent and I don't understand about your reference to the 4-die 45 ACP die set having anything to do with rifle cartridges.
Throw the dippers away and only use the scale and powder thrower. The dippers can vary the powder charge plus of minus a full grain. That's not good.
I wish to respectfully disagree.

Don't throw anything away. Use them as trade goods. Besides, in my experience, the dippers are every bit as accurate as any powder thrower/measure. It takes a bit of care to scoop with consistency each and every time, though. But if you are consistent, your scoops of powder will be, too.

The dippers have certain advantages. They are consistent with any type of powder, ball, stick or flake. They are incapable of "cutting" powder, jamming or leakage, all problems with most other powder measuring devices. They are inexpensive. Once adjusted (which, I admit, is a pain to do) they don't ever go out of adjustment. Best of all, you will never run out of of powder without knowing it.

However, dippers are marginally slower than a regular powder measure, and, like I said before, take some skill to operate properly.


The 4 die set comes with Lee's Factory Crimp Die that's not used for .45ACP. It's for rifle cartridges. Most of them don't need crimping at all. Doesn't hurt, but you really only need a taper crimp die for .45. Taper crimping only for a .45. The 3 die seater will do that. Only the sizer and Crimp die are carbide.
I beg to differ on this point also. The 4-die set for 45 ACP is for 45 ACP, not any rifle cartridge that I know of. The sizing die has a carbide sizing ring. The case mouth expanding die and bullet seating dies are steel, and the (4th) crimp die is a taper crimp die with a sizing ring that ensures the case is still properly sized as it is withdrawn from the 4th die.

Respectfully,

Lost Sheep
 
The 4 die set comes with Lee's Factory Crimp Die that's not used for .45ACP. It's for rifle cartridges. Most of them don't need crimping at all. Doesn't hurt, but you really only need a taper crimp die for .45. Taper crimping only for a .45.

Since when is the 45 acp FCD not for 45 acp? The 45 acp FCD is a taper crimp die. I use one for jacketed and lead bullets.

It's best to buy components locally. Shipping costs for bullets and Hazmat fees for powder and primers is expensive.

If you are only buying primers 1,000 at a time and powder one pound at a time I would agree. If you are buying in quantity then it would be much cheaper on-line even with the hazmat. For example I can buy powder for $16 per pound and primers for $16 per 1,000 on-line with shipping and hazmat included. I don't know about where you live but I can't get close to that locally.
 
What Lost Sheep & Rusty said + shop around for prices. Take a look at Lee Factory Sales.

It's hard for me to pick equipment for someone else. I bought a single stage years ago for hand gun & got burnt out fast. I have upgraded to a progressive but still use the SS for rifle part of the time. The tools can be had for not a grate expense but read around at what others use & as you load you will start figuring how those tools can benefit you.

I have mostly RCBS & Lee tools. I prefer Lee's tools but I like the customer service of RCBS much better then Lee. I have only dealt with Lee customer service a few times & there knowledge is great but they didn't go out of there way to help. RCBS on the other hand I have told them I lost a part & there reply is let me send you two more in case it happens again. The replacements are free & so is the shipping. RCBS's phones are to busy to call but a email works just as good & fast.

Others have had better experiences with Lee then I have though. I'm not saying Lee is bad to deal with but I have called them over problems & there response is mail the part in with a $4 check for return shipping & if the part needs to be modified we will let you know how much it cost. I still prefer there tools tho.
 
Rusty seem to be able to do a bit better then I can on components but it is much cheaper then buying local. Local primer are still over $5/100 some places. I'll be paying about $18.50/1000 shipped TMD compared to $30/1000 plus gas & tax to get them from Walmart. I normaly have $4/lb in powder shipped/TMD compared to $25/lb plus gas & tax from Walmart.
 
Rusty seem to be able to do a bit better then I can on components but it is much cheaper then buying local.

I buy mostly from Graf's and Powder Valley. If you have a C&R license you can save anouther 10% to 15% at graf's.
 
OH. I see said the blind man. You had me thinking I needed to shop harder.
 
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