Thinking about trying Balostol.

Ballistol, being merely smellified oil, is ok for use on the nitride finished guns whose makers warn against common but strong solvents.

"High-quality cleaning solvent (barrel only) Solvents can discolor your Duty Finish . Kroil is also recommended and Duty Finish safe. Oil based cleaner (polymer safe) for the rest of the gun."
and
"The Black Nitride finish that we are using is a superior finish and wears very well. You should avoid solvent immersion and prolonged ultrasonic cleaning of your firearm. Never use cleaning products with Trichloroethylene, ammoniated solvents, or strong alkaline solvents. Discoloration of the finish can occur on firearms with a nitride finish if these cautions are ignored. Damage to your firearms finish may occur if these cautions are ignored."
 
Not according the web site. They claim is is good for everything!
I know rather well what Ballistol advertises, but I have seen my fair share of ruined shotgun and rifle stocks from too much mineral oil. Putting very small quantities once or twice a year is OK, but there are far better ways of protecting your wooden furniture, even by the time Ballistol was created. The idea behind it was different - soldiers needed something simple, that is fine for multiple uses, not the best solution for every particular case... And the German military rifle stocks back then were coated with Shellac, so one really needed to worry about scratches and peeled lacquer, not protecting the entire stock from the elements - even if you apply too much of it the stock will be fine, because it will not soak into the wood. It's just a simple, non-polymerizing mineral oil - there is no mystery about it, or some sort of 19th century Kraut magic...
 
I know rather well what Ballistol advertises, but I have seen my fair share of ruined shotgun and rifle stocks from too much mineral oil. Putting very small quantities once or twice a year is OK, but there are far better ways of protecting your wooden furniture, even by the time Ballistol was created. The idea behind it was different - soldiers needed something simple, that is fine for multiple uses, not the best solution for every particular case... And the German military rifle stocks back then were coated with Shellac, so one really needed to worry about scratches and peeled lacquer, not protecting the entire stock from the elements - even if you apply too much of it the stock will be fine, because it will not soak into the wood. It's just a simple, non-polymerizing mineral oil - there is no mystery about it, or some sort of 19th century Kraut magic...


I do not use the stuff. Just posting the claims they make! It's all hype to me!
 
Seen a few here say to avoid for wood: why?

I have used mineral oils specifically for wood stuff such as toys, cutting boards, etc. when I want a non-polymerizing finish. Never heard one bad thing about this being a bad thing. Do tell more.
 
Because non-polymerizing oils soften the wood and that is not a good thing when it comes down to firearms. I don't get it - why so much people insist on that when a completely adequate and cheap finish is readily available? Just get yourself a bottle of BLO (boiled linseed oil) and be done with it - leave mineral oils for the cutting boards.
 
How do you folks who use it like it?
Love it. Non-toxic tor less toxic) too. A lot of people complain it doesn't work well but it's been my experience that you just need a little bit of elbow grease with it. I've used it on leather with good results I've used it on wood with good results I've used it on metal with good results I've used it on my hands with good results but I've never tried to cook with it. Oh I used it as a cutting oil last time I had to do some drilling into metal.

I also don't really understand the complaints about the smell. It smells like black licorice to me.
 
Last edited:
Because non-polymerizing oils soften the wood and that is not a good thing when it comes down to firearms. I don't get it - why so much people insist on that when a completely adequate and cheap finish is readily available? Just get yourself a bottle of BLO (boiled linseed oil) and be done with it - leave mineral oils for the cutting boards.
Because boiled linseed oil isn't pure linseed oil anymore and can be quite toxic.
 
It has been my only CLP for several years, for all of my guns. Seems to do fine for cleaning and lubrication, although after a few months you need to reapply a thin layer to metal to extend the preservation function.

Even though it is said to be "non-toxic", a warning on my cans tells us to avoid breathing the spray in confined spaces.

Benzene is one of the ingredients? Oh well, you can't expect everything to be 100% non-toxic.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top