Thoughts on Ruger LC9s

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I have an original LC9, but I haven't shot it. (It's on my to do list.) I'm sorry I can't be of help in that regard, but I can whole-heartedly recommend the Kimber Micro 9. It's an astounding pocket-ish sized 9mm that is very accurate for it's purpose, 100% reliable and incredibly well-made. They are more expensive than the LC9s, but I got mine barely used with a box for $450, so that's not too bad. Only came with one mag, but oh well. Best wishes.
I have an original LC9, but I haven't shot it. (It's on my to do list.) I'm sorry I can't be of help in that regard, but I can whole-heartedly recommend the Kimber Micro 9. It's an astounding pocket-ish sized 9mm that is very accurate for it's purpose, 100% reliable and incredibly well-made. They are more expensive than the LC9s, but I got mine barely used with a box for $450, so that's not too bad. Only came with one mag, but oh well. Best wishes.
It is in my list. Almost the same exact size as the LC9S.
 
Well I couldn't resist. I had to see what the trigger would be like on my LC9S if I were to get the trigger kit installed. I ordered it from Powder River Precision this evening and will take it to the gunsmith when it arrives. Stay tuned.
 
My wife's concealed carry pistol is an LC9s. She loves it. My father in law has one as well and also likes it. Two issues:

First, shortly after we first bought hers we got a number of failures to fire. Turned out the trigger spring was popping out of its notch on one end. Shipped it to Ruger and they fixed it, no charge. It hasn't had a single FTF since (put several hundred rounds through it right after we got it back and more since on range runs).

Second, as noted, dis-assembly is a pain.
 
Bought my girlfriend one. It shoots fine and is reasonably accurate. Nice trigger.

Hers came with a bad magazine though and Ruger needed to replace it.
 
I need to get to my LGS and handle one, really interested in the cw9 aswell. I txted the fellow at the gun store and he would have to order one unfortunately.
 
Bought my girlfriend one. It shoots fine and is reasonably accurate. Nice trigger.

Hers came with a bad magazine though and Ruger needed to replace it.
Another report of a nice trigger. I must be in the minority thinking otherwise. My gunsmith said yesterday it wouldn't be his choice. Not too many of us though.
 
Her's is smooth with a light and crisp break. It isn't what I would choose either. It's her gun. Not mine. But it still has a nice trigger.

Maybe yours just sucks.
 
Her's is smooth with a light and crisp break. It isn't what I would choose either. It's her gun. Not mine. But it still has a nice trigger.

Maybe yours just sucks.
No, it is all that you describe. It is just that you have to pull it for about a half mile before it fires and then let it return that whole distance before you can start to pull it again. Not my idea of a nice trigger. If I wanted that, I would have kept my Security Six revolver.
 
Then if you want a short trigger pull, maybe look at the Sig P938 or Kimber micro 1911.

But that's a different thread.
 
I get a kick out of folks looking for that ultra light trigger with very little length of pull. The LC9S,which from stock is already very light and breaks like glass IMO. However for some, I bet they would love to see a trigger on the LC9S pro, like the trigger on this Pellet gun I use to own. It is six way adjustable down to just mere ounces of pull. I mean a baby's breath of pull weight. Hey, why not? The best Safety is in your head. So you would not be touching the trigger anyway right, unless you were going to actually shoot it.

RUGER INTRODUCES THE NEW LC9S GEN 2 WITH HAIR TRIGGER AVAILABLE IN PRO MODEL ONLY

TRIGGER ADJUSTMENTS
The trigger is adjustable in several
ways. As you adjust one aspect, the
others will change, as well. The screw
behind the trigger blade adjusts the
overtravel (A). The screw behind that
adjusts the location of the second stage
(B). The screw in front of the trigger
blade adjusts the length of the

stage pull (C). You MUST adjust the
length of the

First-stage pull (C) and
the location of the second stage (B)
together, or you will introduce a false second-stage stop. The large screw at the
top of the trigger blade allows repositioning of the blade (D). Trigger-pull weight
is adjusted by the large screw at the bottom rear of the triggerguard (E). Do not
adjust lighter than 500 grams (17.6 oz.).
 

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Jeb, be fair. I never asked for a lighter pull. My SR9 trigger is far superior (to me) than the LC9S trigger despite being the same general type. Shorter, shorter reset, similar weight. That is all I am asking for. Breaking like glass (which I think is a gross exaggeration) is fine as long as you don’t have to anxiously wonder when the heck it is going to happen.
 
Then if you want a short trigger pull, maybe look at the Sig P938 or Kimber micro 1911.

But that's a different thread.
Thst would be too easy...and expensive. First I would need to buy one of the higher priced Kimbers that come with an ambi safety. Then after the cost of the Kimber, which I think is sweet, I would have to send the new gun to EGW to have a custom mounting plate fitted to its oddball dovetail cut for a red dot. Another $175. And the Kimber has no grip safety. So the gun with the single action trigger doesn’t have a safety while the LC9S pulls like a revolver and does have an (optional) safety. How weird is that?

Besides I love experimentation. I am anxious to learn what the Powder River Precision trigger kit can do. As a chemist, trying things to see what happens is what I do. Of course, even though the cost is lower, the money could be wasted.
 
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I don't want it any shorter, or any heavier of a trigger. The takedown pin thing is cheesy I will concede that. The LC9s is already modular and the cam block/chassis is already metal. To me the only thing they could do better is a slightly lower bore axis and more aggressive stippling on the grip.

I have to really disagree on your statement that the LC9s is classified as Modular. Yes, you can take it down to remove the chassis, but certainly not a process most shooters would do, especially on a more frequent basis. True modular firearms have the serial number on the chassis or frame not on the polymer grip. If you want a lower bore axis which is subjective, you might want to try a Glock for instance. This is the first time I have heard anyone say that the stippling need to be more aggressive. On the contrary, Most of the comments on have seen on folks that say it is too aggressive. I for one have alway's felt that this is on on the LC9S finer point. Easy to get a good grip, and plants firmly in the hand.
 
I have to really disagree on your statement that the LC9s is classified as Modular. Yes, you can take it down to remove the chassis, but certainly not a process most shooters would do, especially on a more frequent basis. True modular firearms have the serial number on the chassis or frame not on the polymer grip. If you want a lower bore axis which is subjective, you might want to try a Glock for instance. This is the first time I have heard anyone say that the stippling need to be more aggressive. On the contrary, Most of the comments on have seen on folks that say it is too aggressive. I for one have alway's felt that this is on on the LC9S finer point. Easy to get a good grip, and plants firmly in the hand.

The serial number IS on the chassis and not on the grip. There is a window in the grip to show the serial number through. The metal chassis holds all the working parts and comes out with two pins. That is the definition of a modular handgun!

I have rather large hands and I have trouble keeping it from moving in my grip under recoil so I have to wriggle it back into position every couple rounds. A set of talon grip tape fixed this for me.
 
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The serial number IS on the chassis and not on the grip. There is a window in the grip to show the serial number through. The metal chassis holds all the working parts and comes out with two pins. That is the definition of a modular handgun!
.

Yes, it is on the chassis. However if you want to view it as a Modular take down that is fine. I would say in that case, the procedure to do so is not something I would advertise. And of course Ruger most certainly does not advertise it or list modular design as a feature. And I do not blame them. And for sure you cannot order a grip for one. In fact on my LCP's they had to have the whole gun sent it to replace cracked grips. They do list the Ruger American as a "Modular" feature. If you say the LC9S is a modular feature of the gun, then for sure, it ranks at the bottom of modular pistols. Even the New Taurus Spectrum beats the pants off it in that design. And I also read the New Sig 365 will come out with a modular design in late spring.And lol, you have to do more than just remove two pins to break down the LC9S,
Yes, I can understand that the recoil of the gun, would make your hand "wriggle" out. I actually think that and the high muzzle flip would also contribute to it. I have large hands also, but the grip on the Stippling on the gun actually was so strong that it bit into my hand with I first started shooting it many years ago. I did become use to it to the point of actually liking it. That said, I do like the Traction grips or Talon Grips on other firearms.
 
Are we talking about the same gun? You push out two pins with a punch and your palm and pull the chassis out with your fingers. Why is that difficult? The only component that is not housed in the chassis is the mag release.
 
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I swear I'm gonna make a video showing the take down. There's seriously like 10 seconds at most involved in the whole process.

Have folks really gotten that spoiled with "Glock like" takedowns that anything else is a "pain"?

Guessing none of you guys whining own a 1911...
 
I swear I'm gonna make a video showing the take down. There's seriously like 10 seconds at most involved in the whole process.

Have folks really gotten that spoiled with "Glock like" takedowns that anything else is a "pain"?

Guessing none of you guys whining own a 1911...
The LC9S is harder for me than the 1911 because it requires three hands. Well that really isn’t true, but it seems like it. A fixture that would support the gun while you push the slide back just so in order to slip the pin out would be helpful.
 
The LC9S is harder for me than the 1911 because it requires three hands. Well that really isn’t true, but it seems like it. A fixture that would support the gun while you push the slide back just so in order to slip the pin out would be helpful.



Have you never seen the technique of getting the slide back a inch or so with one hand? This is used for more than one hand gun out there.

I definitely need to post a video.

Nowhere near as involved as a 1911.
 
I'm still going to make a video but here's just one of many of examples of folks easily breaking this gun down.

Not the way I do it but it's still just a few seconds...


 
I bet the LC9S will have a newer model in the near future. I suspect they will copy other designs that MUCH easier. Not only to break down, but to just slip back on. No more need to pull the trigger every time. Yes, there are much better designs out there.
 
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