Threaded Barrels

[giggitygiggity]

I have a Sig P226 and a Beretta 92FS that I would like to sound suppress. They are both in 9mm. I am likely going to buy an AAC Tirant suppressor for them. My second choice is a Silencerco Osprey.

As they are right now, neither has a threaded barrel. Please talk me through thread pitch and which pitch is best. Also, will I have to buy a separate barrel for the Beretta or can I send it off to be threaded. I only ask because Beretta barrels stick out from the slide. I am not sure if the quarter inch or so of a standard Beretta could be threaded or if a separate barrel is needed.

Please offer your advice/recommendations for thread pitch, barrels, etc. Thanks.

 

[YZ]

For the 92 Beretta you will need an extended threaded barrel - at least. Before you invest in a suppressor, research how well your particular model likes to be suppressed. Some semi-autos do just fine while others respond with misfires, residue blowback, or premature wear.

On the SIG most likely you will be fine just by swapping the barrel for a factory-threaded one. SIG markets those.

It is best to use a designated suppressor-ready model as your suppressor host.

 

[444]

The thread pitch is determined by the suppressor. It is manufactured with a given thread pitch and your barrel has to match it, to screw it together.

Another thing you need to look into is the booster for the suppressor. You don't need one with the Beretta, but I think you would with the Sig.

 

[giggitygiggity]

Thanks for the responses. I know that the thread pitch is determined by the suppressor, but which pitch is preferred or does it even make a difference? What is the difference between suppressor-ready pistols and buying a pistol with a non-threaded barrel and getting a drop-in threaded barrel? Also, what does a booster do? Thanks.

 

[Telekinesis]

It is best to use a designated suppressor-ready model as your suppressor host.

I wouldn't agree with this, especially if you already have pistols that aren't "suppressor ready" from the factory. Most of the time they just add a threaded barrel and/or raised sights, but usually not more than that. Occasionally you'll see companies mess around with spring rates, but those really don't have much effect on locked breech designs like the Sig and Beretta. If you've already got the gun, it is simple enough to just buy a new threaded barrel and you'll be good. Sighting wise you can still use the normal sights and sight through the can and still be pretty accurate.

9mm thread pitches are typically 1/2x28 TPI or 13.5x1 LH (metric). It doesn't really matter which one you go with, but it is helpful to standardize on one thread pattern. The vast majority of guns in the US will be threaded in 1/2x28 and it has become more or less the standard over here. However in Europe they tend to stick with the 13.5x1 LH, which means that if you want to buy factory barrels (at least for the Sig) you're going to be getting a 13.5x1 threading. Another thing to look at when considering which thread pattern to go with is that sometimes its hard to find barrels for a gun in a specific thread pattern. For example, it was easy to find a barrel for my Sig 226 in 1/2x28, but the only easy to find barrel for a Sig 228 is in 13.5x1 LH (have to get a custom barrel to get a 228 in 1/2x28).

The good news for you is that if you're looking at a suppressor with a booster (like a TiRant or Osprey) you will be able to swap out pistons with different thread patterns so you can easily use the same can on barrels with different thread patterns.

A booster (or Nielson device) momentarily decouples the suppressor from the barrel so that the barrel is able to move and unlock the action, allowing the gun to cycle. A bit of a complex concept, but a general rule of thumb is full sized cans need a booster, but lighter micro cans (Thompson Machine Poseidon, DeGroat Nano) don't need a booster. The Beretta 92 is a bit of a different animal though. I've seen some suppressors that are full sized and can work on the 92 without a booster, but I don't believe that having a booster will hurt the gun or can. (It is important to remember NOT to use a booster on a can when it is on a fixed barrel though).

 

[TIMC]

It is best to use a designated suppressor-ready model as your suppressor host.

I wouldn't agree with this, especially if you already have pistols that aren't "suppressor ready" from the factory. Most of the time they just add a threaded barrel and/or raised sights, but usually not more than that. Occasionally you'll see companies mess around with spring rates, but those really don't have much effect on locked breech designs like the Sig and Beretta. If you've already got the gun, it is simple enough to just buy a new threaded barrel and you'll be good. Sighting wise you can still use the normal sights and sight through the can and still be pretty accurate.

I don't agree either, I had several guns I wanted to use as host guns and it would have cost me a fortune to replace them all with suppressor ready guns. While I waited for my stamps I bought a barrel here and there until I had all I wanted. The barrels ran about $200 a piece and I did replace the sights on my USP but the others were good enough to see over the Osprey I bought. I ended up putting barrels on 5 handguns and spent about $1000 all together. All the guns function perfectly and that was a much cheaper way to go for me.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

The thread pitch is determined by the suppressor. It is manufactured with a given thread pitch and your barrel has to match it, to screw it together.

Another thing you need to look into is the booster for the suppressor. You don't need one with the Beretta, but I think you would with the Sig.

The Neilsen device on the AAC TiRant comes in numerous thread choices that the buyer can select. Also you can buy other for about $80. I'm pretty sure the OP was asking which thread to choose.

Mike

 

[YZ]

I don't agree either, I had several guns I wanted to use as host guns and it would have cost me a fortune to replace them all with suppressor ready guns. While I waited for my stamps I bought a barrel here and there until I had all I wanted. The barrels ran about $200 a piece and I did replace the sights on my USP but the others were good enough to see over the Osprey I bought. I ended up putting barrels on 5 handguns and spent about $1000 all together. All the guns function perfectly and that was a much cheaper way to go for me.

That depends. The USP is a platform endorsed by HK as a suppressor host. A well fitted 1911 cannot be expected to be that way. Maybe, but I would not pay upfront for the new parts and keep my fingers crossed. Even with SIG Sauer, you should be fine unless you deal with some high end fitted models where even factory standard barrels are not interchangeable with the extended ones.

I am not against aftermarket mods, believe me I have played the Lego game myself. Just given the choice (and the funds), one could bypass all the pitfalls by getting a factory suppressor-ready model complete with a warranty.

 

[giggitygiggity]

Thanks for the additional replies. As for boosters, is a booster automatically included in the Tirant or is it something that needs to be purchased separately? How does it attach to the suppressor or barrel? Thanks.

 

[CoRoMo]

...is a booster automatically included in the Tirant...

Yes, except they call it a A.S.A.P. System. Same thing though.

How does it attach to the suppressor or barrel?

Threads into/onto each... http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2011/07/foghorn/silencer-review-aac-ti-rant-9-9mm/