To cast or not?

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OK, I am pretty fed up with waiting on plated or jacketed bullets. In fact, I am so unhappy about the whole situation that I may just buy some casting equipment and massive amounts of lead.

With that said, why exactly do you guys cast your own bullets? It's fairly cheap, does take time, I suppose it would be the only thing we truly make. For example in reloading, all we really do is match up components and pull some handles up and down, and blam, a loaded round.

What is the true draw of casting your own? My only fear is leading, but then, I guess that can be a little over dramatic. Its just lead, and can be cleaned up with some elbow grease.

Anyway, take care,
 
I first started casting when I was 17 years old and couldn't afford to buy bullets.

That was 48 years ago.

Since then I cast to get great bullets like orginial Keith SWC's of the proper hardness I couldn't buy.

Now you can buy them, but the really good ones cost as much or more then jacketed bullets.

Anymore, I don't cast as much as I used too, but I don't shoot as much as I once did either.

The "leading" thing is a bunch of hooey!
If you do it right, they don't lead.

If you shoot store-bought that are too hard or too soft for the velocity you are loading too, then you may get leading. In fact, you may get leading real bad.
Do it right and you won't.

Consider the .22RF ammo you shoot by the 500 round brick.
Lead bullets at 1,200 or faster.
Does your .22 rifle bore lead shut every 50, or 5,000 rounds?
Or even lead at all?
Of course it doesn't!

rc
 
It's fun and habit forming, just like reloading. I started casting to save money and have been doing it now for 35 years. You experiment with different alloys and lubes to get just right bullet/load for your gun. You also get the pleasure of doing it yourself and the added bonus of having an endless supply of projectiles (if you have the lead). One suggestion. If you're gonna do it start stocking up on lead now. Many of us use wheel weights as the basis for our alloy. A few years ago you could get all you want for free. Not so now and some states are outlawing lead wheel weights and other lead sources. If you decide to try, good luck!

Edit: Don't try to drive them too fast. That's one of the main causes of barrel leading. I've never had a leading problem but I keep them slow and clean my guns regularly.
 
People reload for one of two reasons, or a combination of both: Economy and availability.

Economy only really applies if you are willing to put in the effort to find a low cost source of lead. Buying from one of the big online companies will cost almost as much as just buying lead bullets.

Most guys invest some time and a few six-packs at the local tire store to get their used wheel weights. I have a friend who works in nuclear medicine, and I get their scrap. Plumbers and remodelers frequently have scrap lead plumbing.

Once you nail down the source, your bullets rapidly approach 'free'. Depending on how many calibers you are going to cast for, molds may or may not be a significant cost.

As rc says, the leading hype is just that. The 22lr illustrates that perfectly. I load 10mm to full power with 175 gr bullets (1300fps or faster) and have no issues. Elmer Keith developed the bullet that bears his name (Keith SWC) with 44 special and magnum casings and a 16:1 lead:tin alloy. With proper fit and lube, even pure lead can be driven quite fast. Hard alloys can equal copper jackets.

In other words, jump-in, the water is fine!
 
I started casting because I thought it would be fun. It was. I got away from it for a variety of reasons, but I still have my stuff and plenty of lead if I want to cast a few.
 
Sounds like I may just jump in. :)

OK, question,

I would try and start with .357 Rifle and Pistol. If I were to buy say precision bullets or oregon trail lazer bullets or someone other brand for .357. They are all sized to .357. Not 358, or 359, etc.

But when I look at say Lyman moulds, looks perfect, .357 moulds, sweet. Then when I look at sizing dies, they are .356, .357, .358. and .359.

I am rambling here, but if all these cast bullet companies can offer cast bullets in .357, why in the heck does Lyman and RCBS, etc offer in .356, 357, 358, etc.

Apparently slugging your barrel "really" isn't necessary and if I were to cast .357, just get .357 sizer / lubricator dies?

Sorry for so many questions, I have reloaded thousands upon thousands of jacketed and plated, but hey when it says .357, on a package of JHP bullets, I know thats what I want. Is it really that complicated?

I read somewhere on Lyman's FAQ, it says to size .001 over what your barrel diameter is. If that were the case, how does Precision bullets, and oregon trail and all other comercial casters get away with selling .357 sized cast bullets? Or are they "really" sized at .358?

Hope that makes sense. :banghead:
 
Bullet size to use depends on a couple of things.
With a rifle or auto pistol, the bore dia is the critical factor.

With a revolver, it matters not so much what the bore is, as long as it is the same or smaller then the cylinder throats. If it is bigger, you got a problem!

What is critical with revolver bullets is that they fit the cylinder throats exactly.
Say your bore is .357", but your cylinder throats are .359". What size bullet do you need?
You need .359" bullets, because that is what fits the cylinder throats.

They will easily slug down to fit the bore when you get them out of the cylinder, going in a straight line, without gas cutting or melting from a loose cylinder throat fit.

Lyman and other molds generally throw oversize slightly and are intended to be big enough to be sized down to exactly what you need.

But even changing the bullet alloy can change the "as-cast" diameter slightly, due to different shrink rates of harder or softer alloy.

Many of the better cast bullet companies offer you a choice of what size you want them sized too.
This company and others ask you what size you want after you click on "Add to Shopping Cart".
http://www.dardascastbullets.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=dardas&Category_Code=38SWC

But even the normally available .358" size would be much better then .357" size.

Your other question about how do they get away will selling .357" cast bullets?
Well, most folks don't know or care as long as they go bang.
And besides, all that barrel leading they get is normal for lead bullets.
Right?

rc
 
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Do yourself a favor if you buy the equipment. Go with the .359 sizer die, it is better to be a little bigger than .001" too small as the former is no problem at all and the later will cause leading up the wazoo.
 
RC nailed it on the explanation.

One other note...Lite loads may lead just as much or more than heavy loads. This is because you need enough pressure to cause the base of the bullet to 'obturate' or deform to seal the bore.

If you have slugged your gun and know you are .001 oversize, this is less of an issue. However, even then, the bullet is unlikely to be 'perfectly' round, and even if it were, your bore may not be.

For a starter, you can save some dough by tumble lubing or pan lubing your bullets. Sizing is not required. As long as they chamber, you can shoot them as cast. Your gun will size them perfectly to the bore when you pull the trigger. Some complain of the mess, but others it doesn't bother.

(It does bother me, but not enought to spend a bunch of money on a sizer/lube machine.)
 
Do it! I can reload .45 acp (using cast bullets) for $ 2.50 /50 :what:- I just started loading .30-60 for $2.20/20 using cast bullets. Casting is fun, and I can shoot 5 times more for the same $$.
I too started casting 35 years ago (I had no $$ but loved shooting) took 15 years off (kids). Its a skill you can always use (and with the anti-gun "fearless leader" we have you really may need it!!)
 
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