Today's question

[CoastieShep]

Loaded up a couple hundred .38's today with my new Lee turret. Loading 125 grain hard cast over 4.3 grains of universal, which is the starting load. First bullet seating didn't go so well and pushed the lead about 1/4" too far in. After several dozen whacks with my bullet puller (and some ) the bullet didn't move and I gave up. So the question is, should I scrap it, or could I shoot it in a new +p revolver? The powder isn't compressed, it still probably has a 1/4" between the powder and bullet base.
On a good note, really relaxing loading them today, and it was my only stupid mistake.

 

[blarby]

Press puller ?

 

[Walkalong]

Shoot it in a .357.

 

[GLShooter]

I would whack on it some more if it is an inertial type puller. If that doesn't get it I would not bother to shoot it. I hope that the loss of one piece of brass is not that big a consideration.

Greg

 

[ReloaderFred]

Shoot it if you can't pull it. It's certainly not going to produce magnum pressures with that load and seating depth.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[CoastieShep]

No press puller, no .357 either. It's one of those inirtia pullers.
Loosing one piece isn't that big of a deal, just wondered if it would be shootable.
Thanks gentlemen.

 

[GLOOB]

I use 4.2 grains Unique behind a 148 grain wadcutter, seated flush with case mouth. Recoil is very mild. Your load can't be any worse.

Setback in a .38 case? I'd guess they're safe to shoot.

 

[GLShooter]

No doubt it would be safe. I just never had a problem pulling one with an inertial puller with a lead bullet.

Greg

 

[Centaur 1]

If you're hitting the inertia puller on your bench, try hitting it on another hammer or mallet. I'm not sure exactly why it works better, it has something to do with the puller not rebounding as much since the other hammer head moves too and isn't fixed like a bench top.

 

[Funshooter45]

Forget the inertia puller. Is there any piece of the bullet sticking up past the mouth of the case? If so, just take one of the dies out of the hole. Then put the offending round on the shellholder and raise it up until just the bullet is sticking up above the turret plate and the mouth of the brass is about even with the turret plate. Then grab the exposed bullet with a pair of wire cutter pliers. Then use the arm of the press to pull the case down. The bullet will stay in your pliers. Works nearly as well as a collet puller.

 

[GLShooter]

I have found that a piece of 4X4 post works as an excellent surface to hit the puller on. It is not too hard yet provides enough mass to work against.

Greg

 

[Lost Sheep]

Just whack it a few more times.

GLShooter does it the way I do.

Just whack it a few more times.

With my inertial bullet puller, I find that this technique works pretty well:

Hold the handle of the puller between thumb and forefinger. Swing it with great speed, but still holding loosely. The puller will rebound from the end grain of the 4x4 and virtually double the inertial pull. Just don't let it fly out of your hand. Not particularly dangerous, but embarrassing.

I developed this technique in order to quit bending the aluminum handle of my (1970's vintage) RCBS bullet puller and found it works better at pulling bulllets to boot.

Pulling the bullet in your press with the wire cutters also works, as does screwing a #8 or #10 wood screw or sheet metal screw into the bullet to pull it out (which is how muzzle loaders have to pull bullets sometimes).

You can (if this does not make you nervous) run the cartridge into your sizing die (with the depriming portion removed). This will re-size the case, squeezing the cast lead bullet down at the same time. The lead does not spring back nearly as much as the brass does. This will leave the grip of the brass on the bullet greatly loosened. Probably a good idea to lube the case just a little, even if you have Tungsten-Carbide dies. But don't lube too much. If lube gets underneath the carbide ring, it can come out of the die and break.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep

 

[Walkalong]

I have shot rounds like that, but if you just shoot it in a .357, you won't have to worry even the teeniest bit.

Lots of space in the .38 case and it normally operates at much lower pressures than the gun can take. We are not talking about the 9MM or .40 here.

 

[gamestalker]

The first time I used an inertia bullet puller(did I spell that correctly?), I was some what shy about how hard I smacked it, don't be. The one thing that makes all the difference, is what you smack it on. I have a small piece of 1/2" plate steel which provides the solid surface required to let the inertia do it's stuff. Two, maybe three smacks on concrete, or any very solid surface and wham bam it's out! Don't bother smacking it on a wood surface.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

i smack mine on the steel anvil part of the vise on my bench. works for me.

if you have a inertial puller of a reputable brand, they'll replace it if you break it, anyway.

 

[CoastieShep]

Well, shot it today, and not a single issue. Couldn't even feel or hear a difference.
Yall did give me some great ideas for future problems if I do need to pull one for whatever reason. Thanks a lot gentlemen.

 

[Steve C]

Shoot it out if the round will chamber. Your bullet is light and short to begin with and your load is at the start level.