Took the plunge

[halfded]

Well, I finally took the plunge and completely disassembled my revolver (taurus 85 ul) for the first time. The only other gun I've ever taken apart completely was my 10/22, which is a breeze.

I ordered a set of wolff springs for it and decided to pull the sideplate off to see how bad it was going to be. I was pleasantly surprised. Other than a few little hang ups, I got it all apart and back together again in about an hour. Cleaned everything up real good and lightly oiled the friction points. Put it all back together again and it feels a little smoother, and best of all, it works!

If anyone has any tips on removing/inserting the trigger return spring, let me know, I almost shot the little post right into my finger; that stung a little. If I didn't have so much trouble posting pics I'd consider doing a walkthrough if there isn't one already.

 

[halfded]

nobody huh? I saw somewhere someone said that the springs were so easy to change he did it at the range with no problem to compare the different spring weights.

 

[Dan-O]

Easy, no. Glad I did it, yes.

 

[JLaw]

halfded & Dan-O,

What did the wolff springs do for your Taurus?

Reason I ask is I've got an 85 in blue, it will light strike the primer once in a while but will still fire the round. I'm told it's because Taurus uses weaker springs for a better trigger pull.

Thanks,

JLaw

 

[halfded]

Haven't gotten mine yet, hopefully they come in today. I heard of people having the same problem with light strikes when they use the reduced power hammer spring too. After reading how much of an improvement both springs make, I did a little research to find out if it could be remedied. Lo and behold, there's a cure for the aftermarket spring and factory originals with problems like yours too. The problem isn't necessarily the hammer spring, it's the firing pin return spring.

If you've shot a lot of rounds through your taurus, take it apart, all the way apart, and clean it. Take out the firing pin and the spring, and clean the firing pin channel, that can cause a lot of hangups. Then while you've got that spring out, VERY CAREFULLY cut 1 turn from the spring. Reinstall and dryfire. Taking off one coil relieves some of the presure the firing pin has to overcome, but doesn't adversely affect the safety of the weapon as the spring is still long enough to retain the firing pin from protruding out of the channel. I went ahead and clipped mine already since I had it apart looking at it. Pretty easy, just used some nail clippers. I'll post some reports once I get the springs and go out and try it out. Here's the links I found on the subject. Hope this helps. If you get stuck on disassembly just ask, I did it the first time the other day and it was a breeze.

http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=5406.0

http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=4346.0
The second one is for a taurus tracker, but it's the same process.

 

[jglcolosprgs]

nobody huh? I saw somewhere someone said that the springs were so easy to change he did it at the range with no problem to compare the different spring weights.

Well excuse me for just getting up!!!

I'm not sure that I'd do it at the range. MY manual dexterity and eye sight isn't what it used to be and I ALWAYS drop some tiny little thing. When you pop the post out that keeps the trigger return spring in the frame it has a tendency to shoot across the room and disappear into a box of books. :banghead:

But anyway, I had a 441 and 431 that I replaced the hammer springs and the trigger return springs on.

I guess the "trick" that I didn't get right away was the small hole in the shafts that the springs ride on. If you push the spring down and run a SMALL paper clip or piece of wire to hold the spring in place it works well.

Otherwise it is like trying to give eye drops to a three year old. You just don't have enough hands to keep everything under control.

The links you posted covers everything..