Toothpaste action job

[Vern Humphrey]

It may abrade spots that you did not want abraded.

Abrading, filing, grinding, stoning, and so on remove metal.

Polishing and burnishing displaces metal. In a well-polished surface, the high spots are pushed into the formerly low spots to make a smoother surface.

 

[Old Fuff]

Vern:

If the mugger is close enough to smell my gun, he won't be telling any embarrassing tales.

No, no… no! You have to understand that we now live in a new Age of Enlightenment. Shooting is no longer permitted. The rules of engagement now specify that when you are approached by a mugger or similar person, the correct thing to do is draw your (unloaded) handgun and present it so that he gets a whiff. At this point he will be so overcome with the joy of sweetness and light that he’ll pace a flower in the barrel’s muzzle. Gun violence will soon become a thing of the past. I bet you feel better already. Go get the Colgate peppermint – it’s the most recommended flavor.

 

[BCRider]

Polishing and burnishing displaces metal. In a well-polished surface, the high spots are pushed into the formerly low spots to make a smoother surface.

Only the burnishing action actually moves metal without removing any to form a surface. All the polishing compounds talked about here or that I've ever seen sold contain a very fine abrasive. And abrasives just remove metal or the surface finish. The one possible exception that I can't claim to have used is Flitz. That may be more of a cleaner and shine enhancer than an abrasive. However mag wheel polish, chrome polish, autobody polishing compound, Brasso, Silvo and a host of other similar products definetly contain abrasive material that cuts away at the surface to wear down the haze or machine marks or coarser grinding marks or whatever to produce a more mirror look. But it does remove metal to do this. It'll also remove metal from the holes that pins pass through and a host of other spots that you may not want to open up if it's just stuffed or squirted into a mechanism without due care and consideration. There may be cases where such treatment is the way to go. But it's safe to say that for every one case of that sort there's around 1000 or more where it isn't.

Doing so in most cases is not smart gunsmithing. In fact it's nothing short of mechanical assault. I've worked with metal machining for many years as a hobby and to some extent for my work. I've used liquid or powder based abrasives to cut or polish parts on a lot of occasions. But I've never just slathered the stuff into a working mechanism as is being discussed here and I never would.

 

[1911Tuner]

But I've never just slathered the stuff into a working mechanism as is being discussed here and I never would.

Then you haven't met my new best friends...J&B Bore Cleaner and CLP Breakfree. I first used it in a Model 57 Smith & Wesson when J&B first hit the market...and that's been a while. Many years and many thousands of rounds later...the old wheelgun is still as good as it was the day I bought it...although it's much smoother. No holes were enlarged. No pins were reduced. No ill effects whatsoever.

As for the others...I'll have to agree. Gotta be careful where and how much...but J&B/CLP slurry? Slather away.

 

[JohnBT]

I'll try that, thank you. So far I've only used Flitz on a few guns.

I've been told that really rough actions, like the 870 Express, will improve in a hurry if you use chunky peanut butter. Just kidding.

John

 

[techmike]

Since the introduction of J&B Bore Cleaner, all that has gone the way of the T-Rex. Mix it with a good teflon-based oil like CLP Breakfree or FP-10 until it's semi-drippy...slather it into the entrails...replace the sideplate, and go shoot. About 500 cycles later, the gun should be as slick as buttered glass, unless there are more serious bugs lurkin' in the shadows. Rinse thoroughly, and oil normally.

I started doing this several years ago after reading one of Tuner's posts about it. Works great!!!

 

[s4s4u]

I actually saw the show on "Cowboys", on the Outdoor Channel, with the feller called "Lead Dispenser". At the time he was the reigning 3 time national SASS champ, and they talked about his trusty Vaquero's which he said had a toothpaste action job. When he started, he had no money and was willing to try anything so he filled 'em up with Crest regular and worked 'em until his hands were sore and then some. Cleaned 'em up and uses them today, not a bad testimonial IMO.

 

[krs]

I still use my Arkansas stones for action smoothing.
Can't imagine putting anything in a S&W gun that could spread to smooth something besides what needs smoothing.

 

[Smith357]

I have done not used toothpaste as I think it is far too abrasive. I have dissolved jewelers rough in gun oil and lubed up specific areas then spent 20 minutes dry firing the gun and disassemble for a complete cleaning. It can make a smooth action smoother but really does nothing for a gritty action. For something like that you need a set of polishing stones.