Traditional Rifles

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There's the Investarms "Hunter" with the recoil pad that's a good buy. Same barrel(a little shorter) and lock as a Lyman since the Traditional Hawkens and the Hunter Cabelas sells are made by the same company as makes the Lyman Great Plains rifle. Before Cabelas robbed the market of the Traditional Hawken,as they call it, and began to import them without the chrome lined(very rust resistant) bores all the Investarms rifles(Hawkens,Great Plains, Hunter) had chrome lined bores to resist the corrosion of blackpowder. Even the Great Pains had the chrome lined bore. It said right on the box "CHROME LINED BORE". Pedersoli puts the chrome lined bore in some of their rifles. Pedersoli makes the best factory made muzzleloaders in the world when it comes to Traditional Rifles. The new Hawken Pedersoli has out is a real nice gun I think and with the Pedersoli quality it's not as expensive as a Pard may think. Anywhoooo......what I was going to get at is that the Investarms Hunter still comes with the "Chrome lined Bore". Also if a guy wants a rifle that isn't going into the woods for deer then a smaller caliber would be less recoil. The smaller the ball the less recoil. The 45 cal. can take deer at closer ranges and be a nice target rifle too with less recoil than parger bored rifles. Theirs the Traditions Crocket Rifle in 32 cal. that's been touted as very accurate and would be recoil free. If a rifle isn't for deer a Squirrel rifle like the Crocket is a good buy and......a can of powder goes a long way and lead to make the little balls makes it very cheap to fire a lot. Anywhooooo.......before Cabelas got all the "Traditional Hawkens" wrapped up it was easier to get from the importers and I sold a million of them in my little shop. I'd sell them $10 over my cost and shipping and the Amish and the middle class people wanting to deer hunt with a good rifle snapped all I had right up all the time. Never had a defective gun and never had a complaint about accuracy. They shoot real well. Even with conicals but the best with balls. Anywhoooo....one rifle that should get more attention is the TRYON RIFLE made by Pedersoli. Chrome lined bore. Casehardened furniture. Walnut wood. Won International 100 meter Competitions more than once right out of the box. I bet the Pedersoli Hawken that's new,, would do the same. Of course I have an old Investarms Hawken(Cabelas calls it the Traditional Hawken) that can keep up with my Pederesoli Tryon ,I'd say. Those long barreled "Blue Ridge" or as some label them, the "Frontier Rifle" are made by Pedersoli and are dang good guns. People don't realize or know that the Hatfield Rifle is nothing more than the same gun with fancier wood. Anywhoooo......the Traditions rifles are good but the barrels have to be cleaned extra well since the barrels seem to rust easy but like the CVA Hawkens they are tack drivers. Deer Creek Products sells some really nice CVA Hawkens but.....even more interesting are the pre-assembled kits they make. They are put together really well and all that's needed is the wood finished(no shaping with the rasp and all just a little sanding,stain and oil) and the metal browned. You would have yer eyeballs pop out when you opened the box if you bought one of the Deer Creek pre-assembled rifles. They are the best KIT on the market in my opinion. You can finish one up and have it look like a custom rifle that costs hundreds and hundreds more. DEER CREEK Phone 1-765-525-6181. They don't have a web page. The kits they sell are real sleepers and one of the best values out there. Cool too!:) I've sold them in the past and never got anything but praise from customers. They have real good wood to metal fit that is really surprising for the money they want for them. The guy at Deer Creek assembles all of the parts to the wood for a customer and the gun can be shot right out of the box if a guy doesn't want to wait to do the finish work. The other kits on the market that need the parts fit to the wood are a nightmare waiting to ruin you. The companies take the defected machine carved wood stocks and throw them in a box and call it a kit. They hardly ever can be fitted right without excess ingenius mechanical aptitude. I mean if the lock inlet is in the wrong position so the hammer can't hit the nipple with a cap on it what can a person do? Move the lock or barrel and leave big gaps in the inletting to fill in and make it look funky? Wood can be taken off but can't be grown back on when it's gone from the wrong place. :banghead: The Lyman and Hawken kits from Investarms are an exception to that. They ain't junked. :D They can be a little loose in the barrel channals but......when they are glass bedded with Accra-glas Gel they are accurate enough to go right to competition and even win. I've done that for people. Glass bed the barrels and tangs of the Investarms Lyman and Hawken rifles. That isn't actually needed but it don't hurt and makes the guns real tack drivers. Even a rifle with a perfectly inletted barrel channal can benifit from a thin layer of glass bed(wouldn't be able to be differentiated from a coat of varnish it would be so thin). The glass is pushed into the pores of the wood and keeps oil and grease out that may be on the barrels and tags to stop rust. Anywhooooo.......a good fit to the barrel in the channal is a must for accuracy because you hold the wood the barrel is in and if the barrel can twist or move in the woods channal from the centifigal forces the ball puts on the barrel the consistancy of the accuracy falls off. What is cool is that the TC breech plug sold by "Track of the Wolf" lets a guy fit a Green Mountain barrel to a Lyman or Investarms or TC hawkens. There are fast twist conversion barrels breeched and ready to go that Green Mountain makes for TC Hawkens and they fit on the Traditional Hawken Cabelas sells. That gives conical bullet accuracy capability to the rifles. The Lyman Great Plains "Hunter" has the fast twist shallow grooved barrel for conical bullets. Anywhoo..check out "Deer Creek" and have them send a catalog with the colored pics of finished rifles made from the pre-assembled kits they sell.
 
If a gun is sighted in for 50 yards, then it will usually shoot just about any load into a paper plate at 50 yards. Maybe it will even hit one between 25 to 70 yards or more at point of aim. It's just that the size of the group might change with a different powder load, or there may be flyers since round balls aren't exactly pinpoint accurate with every shot and barrel twist, especially when only plinking without swabbing between shots.
Then Kentucky windage is used at 100 yards unless the gun is sighted in for 100 yards. A low velocity 60 grain load can reach out to 100 yards but might require some hold over to compensate for bullet drop. This can be affected by the length of the barrel and the powder charge too.
A gun that has adjustable sights is a lot easier to sight in for shooting different loads at various distances. Especially if switching between bullet styles.
However I have one sidelock that shoots a 240 grain saboted bullet (loaded with 90 grains of Pyodex P) and a patched round ball (loaded with 50 grains of Pyrodex RS) to the same point of aim at 50 yards. That means that I don't need to adjust the sights everytime I switch loads, even though they're adjustable.
 
Here is one question that I can not get out of my head, how do the in-line muzzleloader guys load the powder into the barrel without it falling out of the breech plug? There is a hole in the breech plug right? SO do you keep a primer in there from the last shot until you are ready to shoot the next shot? If this is the case, how do they load the first shot?
 
Yes, there's a hole in the breach plug. It's a small hole, and a small amount of powder can enter the hole just as a small amount of powder can enter the channel to the touch hole in a flintlock or the flash channel in a sidelock. However, the hole is small enough that 2f, and even 3f, granules will not flow freely through the hole.
 
Hey Anthony:

My advise would be to pick up a side lock for $100 - 150, experiment with loads in that gun (CVA Mountain Stalker, or Traditions Bob Cat in .50 Cal)...

Get a feel for it, then if you like it; go real traditional (Caliber Variations, Loooong Guns - Kentucky and or etc.) and or Non-Traditional...

Yes, I have owned break open in lines (TC's, CVA's, Traditions etc.); but have come back to my first love (My first was a CVA Mountain Stalker) - I now hunt with a 80's version TC New Englander .50 Caliber, Blue 26" Bbl and Black Synthetic Stocks...

Have fun!

Ron
 
Here is a Hawkins I'm working on. They probally didn't decorate a Hawkins like this, maybe they did, I don't know. I want to build a longrifle, so I thought I would practice on a stock for my TC Hawkins.

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Very nice! What are you using to do that? I'm looking for better wood tools.

AFAIK, the mountain men, plainsmen and other users of Hawken style rifles generally did not decorate them. They were working rifles in a fast-paced, high-stakes and tightly competitive fur trade. One I know of directly is Joe Meek's early cap rifle. The "engraving" on it is crude and done with a knife for the most part.

But that doesn't mean Hawkens don't look good with some work on them. And it doesn't mean this was never done. During the height of the classic fur trade period in the Rockies they were simply too far away from civilization and had no time to wait for engravings. Plus their iron would get beat up and busted. This is in contrast to the rifles from back east that were family heirlooms with the amazingly rich woodwork.
 
Another option might be an authentic rifle....I bought a Danish rolling block in 8mm Krag, receiver dated 1876, and am having the barrel rebored to probably .38-56....BP cartridge, but still BP.....total outlay on gun and rebore is about what most Italian muskets go for.....otherwise, I recommend a .58 cal musket using percussion ignition and minies, with slow twist...easy to load all afternoon, easy to clean, will kill anything in the lower 48 with no problem....
 
I'm useing Pfiel chisels and gouges for the carving. I had to make some wire inletting tools out of small screw drivers to do the wire inlay. I could not find wire inlay tools for sale, so I had to make them. I still have a couple of more carvings to go, then finish it up.
 
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