Trigger jobs

[outdoorman63]

i dont have a lot of knowledge when it comes to custom work on revolvers, but my wife just can not master double action revolvers, she would love to carry a small j frame but cannot shoot it reliably, even after 2 years of practice..she shoots her glock just fine...has anyone ever had a trigger job done getting it down to 6 or 7 lbs and it function well

 

[doc540]

Let me get back with an answer next week.

At lunch today I dropped off the Model 36 with the gunsmith.

 

[kwbikr]

If you want to try it yourself, the Miculek Trigger Jobs video is very good guidance...I used the knowledge on several guns and they came out very nicely...KW

 

[outdoorman63]

how was the change?

 

[rcmodel]

You won't get a J-frame down to a reliable 6 - 7 pounds, no matter what you do.


rcmodel

 

[Seiko]

6-7 is unrealistic.

Its ok for big N frames for use in ICORE or IPSC with a longer firing ping, but not doable for a J frame.

9ish MIGHT be reliable.

 

[Hawk]

My newly 'smithed 57 exceeded expectations - I had requested no lightening of the springs and thought he'd done so anyway but I'm chagrined to learn that "slicking it up" evidently makes it feel lighter. At least it went 50 for 50 at the range today so I'm assuming the springs are intact.

I expect getting pre-lock S&Ws or Colt DAs with issues to use as a "fixer-uppers" will get more challenging. I note Grant Cunningham is not accepting new work and this might shift work to other well known 'smiths. The demand evidently exceeds the supply.

We'll find local people to do the work, learn how to do it ourselves or go without. Miserable time to be starting with revolvers.

 

[BlindJustice]

I had a Master Revolver Action job on my N-frame
and the DA pull isn't much lighter but it is a lot
smoother which makes one, as well as others who have
tried it seem lighter.

FWIW

ALso, I would ask what kind of a J-frame is it? Some
of the 1 6/8" with the lightweight frames are tough for
men is a refrain I heard a lot when I considered a J-frame.
I ended up with the MOdel 60-15 Steel frame & Cyl. with a
3" Bbl. in .357 Mag. - I use 125 gr. Speer GD HP .38 SPcl. +P
and I have found I shoot it DA more often than not - perhaps
a Steel frame 60 with the 2 1/4 inch Bbl. would work
for your wife with the .38 SPcl +P ALso Speer has a new
.38 Spcl. +P for snubbies, a 135 gr. Gold Dot JHP at about
900 FPS from the 2 1/4" BBl. with low muzzle flash.

J

 

[spwenger]

"You" May Not...

You won't get a J-frame down to a reliable 6 - 7 pounds, no matter what you do.

I carry a pair of S&W 640-1's that have had professional trigger jobs, with pulls that I estimate to be in the vicinity of eight pounds. About three months ago I had a student who, just before he left, broke out a pair of 640-1's with trigger jobs by Teddy Jacobson. One had a pull of six pounds and the other of six and a half pounds and I was surprised how easy it was to tell which was which. Anyone who knows Teddy knows that for him reliability is "job one" and that he only offers "street tunes."

So...while the average gunsmith may not be able to guarantee the reliability of a J-frame revolver with a trigger pull of six to seven pounds, someone who really knows the guts of the gun can do it.

 

[CountGlockula]

Have her shoot with the crease of her trigger finger rather than the pad.

 

[outdoorman63]

CountGlockula
Have her shoot with the crease of her trigger finger rather than the pad.


been there tried that...thanks for all the comments..pretty much seems she needs to just carry the glock

 

[RobertFBurnett]

S&W Performance Center Job

I had a S&W Performance Center Master Revolver Job done to my brand new 686, I know it is a different frame but I am more than happy with the job.

I have no idea what the poundage is down to but the fact that it is crisp and lighter makes all the difference to me.

I shoot it DA with my crease (SA with pad) and the only complaint I have is I must be ABSOLUTELY sure to make sure on the release the trigger gets to fly forward, if not the action does not reset and the hammer kinda bobs up and down (and the firing pin) as the cylinder revolves.

I have accepted this as the nature of the beast, and it took me some dry firing time to figure it out, could be a factor in a defensive situation, but since i shoot the paper, it is a small price to pay.

$0.02 from
RFB

 

[hunter55]

I had a trigger job done on a new 642-2 by the folks at Coal Creek Armory in Knoxville. New in box, the pull was just over 12 lbs. After work, the pull was just over 9 lbs. Very smooth and easy to stroke. I have fired approx 500 rounds since work with no issues.

 

[Paladin7]

+1 on the recommendation for Teddy Jacobson at actionsbyt.com

I have an older S&W Model 60 he did for me...the difference was amazing and its been totally reliable. I've found the gun much easier to hit with after Teddy did his work.. I'd call him first and have a conversation..he's opinionated and cranky, but completely honest and operates with consummate integrity.

 

[Rover 'n Rugers]

In the past I had T. Jacobson do an action job on a SP101 and it came out in the high 8 pound range. I suspect this is what the J frame would be also: somewhere around 8.6 to 9.25 pounds (which is what a Magnum Carry I had required, too). The small frames do not have the leverage a larger frame gun does so require more mainspring tension. For the absolutely lightest might want to contact Randy Lee at Apex Tactical. He builds game guns that run in the 4 pound range (627 N frames) but has built a 66 carry gun with a 6 pound action. His website is at: http://www.apextactical.com/ . Part of the light weight pull is achieved via a lightened hammer and extended firing pin.

I have an L frame 686 that was blueprinted and tuned by Alan Tanaka and for reliability it requires about a 7.25 pound pull except if using a C & S extended firing pin which allows 6.75 pounds. I would not recommend this pin for a carry gun as over at Brian Enos Forum a number of people have stated these tend to break with use. As such I have put back in the stock firing pin. There is a discussion thread there now on J frame tuning at:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58508

 

[joneb]

I will be making a Wolff spring order soon, and I'm thinking of trying a 8 LBS hammer spring for a S&W m36, the factory is 8.5 LBS. For $5 what the heck.

 

[Round Gun Shooter]

If you feel capable of a little bit of stone work and changing some springs, send me a PM and I can walk you through what can be done for reliable reduction of the J trigger pull.

There are some differences with the Js that are not covered in the Miculek video. The video also does not address the frame mounted firing pins if that is what you have.

I started working on S&W revolvers in 1981 after attending the Armorer School at the Factory. The little bit I have learned since may be of some help to you.

Regards,


Edit to add: My 625 used for ICORE and USPSA has a 5.5# DA pull