trigger stuck on "FIRE" remington 788 .308

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1858rem

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i just got a used remington 788 in .308 that had been sitting in a closet about 20 years and the trigger seems to be stuck in the fire position... i can not really move the safety lever but the pin the lever pushes on is freed up now. i have removed the small screw on the front of the trigger assembly in an attempt to remove it for further investigation but it is now stuck on something in the middle of the assembly.



1. is this solely caused by 20+ year old dried grease?
2. how do i remove the trigger assembly?
3. why else might the trigger and safety not work?
4. how could i clean the insides of the trigger assembly case?
5. i can remove the bolt... but not using the safety lever, i have to push down on the pin the the lever for some reason wont push on to remove the bolt
 
Numrich has a schematic which may help you. I would start by using carb or brake cleaner and hosing that sonofagun real good.
 
+1

Don't mess with the screws & such until all else fails to loosen it up.

Once you change the settings, you have a whole nother can of worms to deal with, in addition to not knowing what was stuck.

Hose it with any good spray lube or solvent and let it soak before you do anything else to it.

10 to 1 it is just dried oil & crud.

rcmodel
 
awesome!!!! it was just dried....REALLY dried grease... little bit of penetrant freed it up! i disassembled the safety switch an learned better how my new gun works. i went into wallyworld tonight an got 2 boxes of federal 150g .308 an a 4-16X40mm to see how this does! very fast lock time and excellent barrel, hardly any rust and overall pretty nice, where might i find out how old it is? serial number 609####...?
 
ok so i checked it out an it does not make a lot of sense.... mine has a u x u... with the x a little higher up then the u's on each side....there is also a 59 that comes after that with the "5" being stamped very lightly to where it looks somewhat like a "c" except pointing to the left? any info?
 
788's were made from '67 to '83. The only "U" that falls in that date range is 1971. The "X" would denote december.
That's how I read it.
 
If you shoot me your e-mail i can send you an electronic copy of the 788 manual. Although it does not explain how to disassemble the trigger housing group.

Once you get it field stripped you should look at getting some pressurized cleaning spray. I like hoppes in the spray can to clean out areas i cannot reach. (there are ways to completly disassemble the trigger group but some of them are a real pain to get back in)

If you really want a good trigger Timmney makes on that will pop right in http://www.timneytriggers.com/sunshop/catalog/Rem-788-39.html
 
I am having this EXACT same problem with my .222 Remington 788. The bolt is removed as normal but the trigger is locked solid, I used quite a bit of WD40 on it to no avail. Trigger is stuck SOLID. Any help would be great.
 
It can take a while for some of us to get home from a job and find time to set at the computer and read forums. Sorry you didn't get instant help, but how about sharing what the problem was and what worked for you?
 
Probably ruffle some feathers here, but feel compelled to respond about using WD 40.
WD 40 might be wonderfull for other purposes but creates its own problems with trigger assemblies.
Had a guy bring me his Remington with a trigger that would not function. Trigger was stuck on fire. He said he used WD 40 religiously to lube and water proof. WD 40 eventually dried and turned to varnish. The only way I could get the crud cleaned out of the trigger assembly was to remove from the rifle and put in a pan of boiling water and automatic dishwasher soap. Took about a half hour of boiling before the varnish released and floated to the surface.
If oil is needed, I use KROIL. Neat stuff and will usually penetrate and loosen sticky triggers. Does not dry.
 
WD-40 attracts dirt and sand like a magnet, that's why I don't use it, but I did'nt know it would turn into varnish. Something to keep in mind.
I wonder about turning to varnish.

below is more info on wd40

"The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.[citation needed]

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, extricating stuck screws and bolts, and preventing rust are common usages. The product also may be useful in removing moisture.


[edit] Formulation
WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented in order to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients.[2] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients
The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients:

60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated
1-5%: Carbon dioxide
It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.

There is a popular urban legend that the key ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil."
 
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