Trimming end off the stock for a registered SBR

Not open for further replies.


Jun 17, 2007
Need your opinion on best way to trim the stock. Cut the barrel on my 77/357 to 10.5 inches, now need to figure out best way to inlet it for a 1.5 inch can.
Here are couple pictures of what I have to work with.


I would enlarge the barrel channel on the end with a 1.5" dia or slightly larger sanding drum preserving as much of the "Schnabel area" as possible.

get yourself a wood stock....and trim that down.

trimming a polymer stock is going to look like rubbish.....they arent solid, so you are going to have a large open void at the end of it.....
You could always use a hacksaw, sand it down, and then find a recoil pad that will fit on the end. Shouldn't be hard, might need a small size slip on pad.
I sure hope you got an ATF tax stamp for $200 before you did that!!!!

Legal length for a rifle barrel in the USA is 16", and that doesn't include a screw-on can!!
OAL must be 26" with a 16" barrel to be legal.

Im thinking dremel and sending wheels to open up that little bit. Either way will let you guys know how it comes out. Not looking for it to be the best looking gun. Thing will get ratle canned once form 1 comes back for the can.
Surprised it took till post number 6 for someone to school me on nfa rules. Yes the rifle is regestered sbr.
By the way atf is only taking about a month to do eform1, so if you are thinking of doing an sbr or a freezplug silincer now is a great time.
If you use the bitty Dremel sanding drums, you will clog up quite a few in the process. Too hot.

I would use a fast cutting bit for the shaping. Something like this.

There's also this kind of bit that's made of carbide. It is bomb at rough shaping plastics. I used this kind of bit to cut a huge rectangle out of the plastic stock of my 22. These bits are super handy, because they can cut metals without dulling. But for your specific purpose, I would get the first bit.

Once roughed out, you can cover your mistakes with a big diameter, coarse sanding drum, using a hand drill. Then finish with files and sandpaper.
Last edited:
If you can locate someone with a drill press you could jig it up and run a hole saw of the size just over the can diameter and it would sit into the cutout.

You just need someone with a drill press where the table can tilt to have the face vertical then secure the top edge against the table in the right position.

If the hole saw isn't deep enough trim the waste after the first cut then continue a little deeper until you reach your mark.
Trimming end off the stock

I sure hope you got an ATF tax stamp for $200 before you did that!!!!

Legal length for a rifle barrel in the USA is 16", and that doesn't include a screw-on can!!
OAL must be 26" with a 16" barrel to be legal.


Agree!!!' I knew I was not the only one who thought the same thing.
10 1/2 inches?

UUUUUUUUH, I believe that that is an illegal length. I'd ditch that barrel and put one on at least 16 incher before the BATFE or FBI comes knocking at your door.
UUUUUUUUH, I believe that that is an illegal length. I'd ditch that barrel and put one on at least 16 incher before the BATFE or FBI comes knocking at your door.

im going to go out on a limb and guess that he has it registered as an SBR.....judging from the fact that hes talking about putting a can on it, im going to guess hes familiar with NFA regulations.
Again I'm well aware of nfa rules and paper work involed. Please read the entire thread. THIS IS A REGISTERED SHORT BARREL RIFLE.

Now with that out of the way want to give you guys an update. I ended up using a round stone wheel on my dremmel. Worked very well, that plastic is very easy to work with and had it all done in about 30 minutes. Will post pics after form 1 comes back and the can is built and on the rifle.

Mods can you please update my original post to indicate somewhere that the rifle is a registered sbr? Thanks.
M cameron i thought about that, but this going to be a sort of a woods/truck/beater rifle that i realy dont care how it looks. I think after I registered it there is no way to get my moneys worth out of her. Will be passing in onto my kids grandkids. So looks are not even on radar.
Hindsight is 20/20 but I think I would have cut the barrel about 3/4" longer.:neener:

It still amazes me that some don't have a clue on NFA items.
Honestly, with what you've got invested already, why not just get a new laminate stock?

I'm not familiar with the type of synthetic used on the 77/357, but I've found that most of my synthetic stocks transmit a lot of noise directly into the bones of my face and then into my ears.

It doesn't matter how good your can is, it won't do anything about noise transmitted through the stock.

Strangely enough, sometimes the "best" synthetic stocks are the worst offenders. A friends $550 Macmillan is loud enough to hurt my ears when DRY FIRING his Remington 700.

I've never had any noise problems with wood or laminate stocks. The slight increase in weight (mostly in the buttstock) also helps to counterbalance the weight of the suppressor and helps with the general handyness of the weapon.

All of the stocks below are under $100 (plus shipping) and they'd be easy to work with.

The final product would probably be a lot easier on the eyes as well as being more comfortable to shoot.

Even if you decide against getting a laminate stock, if your OEM stock transmits a lot of noise, consider putting a piece of 1/4" moleskin on the buttstock where your face contacts it.
I don't doubt that you had it cut to 10.5" on purpose and are building the rifle as you wanted, but just out of curiosity, is there any reason you didn't just have a barrel set an inch longer to avoid having to modify the stock?

I have dreamed of doing a PCC suppressed SBR for a long time and would love the info that lead to your decision. Some day I plan to do something similar.
Ben I intentionally wanted part of the silencer inside the stock, just like the look that way. Now kind of wish i went with a 8 inch barrel. Can that im going to build is gona be heavy as hell so wanted as much weight trimmed off as posible and get that heavy can closer to the center. 10 inch seems like a good compromise also because i want to run fast powder under heavy bullet. Wont be able to pack whole bunch of it in there before high pressure but i still want to get close to 1050fps with a cast 220 gr bullet. The reason for fast powder is because it will be quieter suppresed then something like h110 that will still be burning inside the can.
hope all of this make sense.
If you plan on shooting thus suppressed only you could have permantently attached the can or used a permanent attached shroud to eliminate the sbr tax stamp.
In hindsight, yeah. But it would be a little late to file the paperwork at this point, lol. Most cans cost much more than $200.00, anyhow. Having the ability to clean it and to put it on other guns is probably worth more than $200.00 to anyone buying a can.

Also, permanently attaching a factory can is easier said than done. It seems like you need enough meat on there to blind pin it or to weld it without ruining the barrel.
If you have the skills and tools, just cut it back a reasonable length and cover the cut part with a fitted and cut piece of water buffalo horn or poured pewter.

I don't have these skills, but I saw it in an old book before.
Didnt want to go with integrated silencer for the reasons Gloob mentiomed. Ill post pics after the can is built. Submited form 1 about 3 weeks back, hoping it will be approved here soon.
Not open for further replies.