Trimming end off the stock for a registered SBR
- Thread starter Jeeping
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Arizona_Mike
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I would enlarge the barrel channel on the end with a 1.5" dia or slightly larger sanding drum preserving as much of the "Schnabel area" as possible.
Mike
Mike
Panzerschwein
member
You could always use a hacksaw, sand it down, and then find a recoil pad that will fit on the end. Shouldn't be hard, might need a small size slip on pad.
P.B.Walsh
Member
He is doing the forend.....
You could saw it and fit a bit of epoxy on there and shape it up. Definitely do-able.
You could saw it and fit a bit of epoxy on there and shape it up. Definitely do-able.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I sure hope you got an ATF tax stamp for $200 before you did that!!!!
Legal length for a rifle barrel in the USA is 16", and that doesn't include a screw-on can!!
OAL must be 26" with a 16" barrel to be legal.
rc
Legal length for a rifle barrel in the USA is 16", and that doesn't include a screw-on can!!
OAL must be 26" with a 16" barrel to be legal.
rc
Float Pilot
Member
Fine tooth band saw. Then fill in the end with black bedding compound and contour.
Im thinking dremel and sending wheels to open up that little bit. Either way will let you guys know how it comes out. Not looking for it to be the best looking gun. Thing will get ratle canned once form 1 comes back for the can.
Surprised it took till post number 6 for someone to school me on nfa rules. Yes the rifle is regestered sbr.
By the way atf is only taking about a month to do eform1, so if you are thinking of doing an sbr or a freezplug silincer now is a great time.
Surprised it took till post number 6 for someone to school me on nfa rules. Yes the rifle is regestered sbr.
By the way atf is only taking about a month to do eform1, so if you are thinking of doing an sbr or a freezplug silincer now is a great time.
If you use the bitty Dremel sanding drums, you will clog up quite a few in the process. Too hot.
I would use a fast cutting bit for the shaping. Something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-134-Hi..._sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KX2RDQ15Z8XRF8T3RS2
There's also this kind of bit that's made of carbide. It is bomb at rough shaping plastics. I used this kind of bit to cut a huge rectangle out of the plastic stock of my 22. These bits are super handy, because they can cut metals without dulling. But for your specific purpose, I would get the first bit.
http://www.amazon.com/1-8-Grout-Rem...8-9&keywords=carbide+dremel+bit+grout+removal
Once roughed out, you can cover your mistakes with a big diameter, coarse sanding drum, using a hand drill. Then finish with files and sandpaper.
I would use a fast cutting bit for the shaping. Something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-134-Hi..._sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KX2RDQ15Z8XRF8T3RS2
There's also this kind of bit that's made of carbide. It is bomb at rough shaping plastics. I used this kind of bit to cut a huge rectangle out of the plastic stock of my 22. These bits are super handy, because they can cut metals without dulling. But for your specific purpose, I would get the first bit.
http://www.amazon.com/1-8-Grout-Rem...8-9&keywords=carbide+dremel+bit+grout+removal
Once roughed out, you can cover your mistakes with a big diameter, coarse sanding drum, using a hand drill. Then finish with files and sandpaper.
Last edited:
BCRider
Member
If you can locate someone with a drill press you could jig it up and run a hole saw of the size just over the can diameter and it would sit into the cutout.
You just need someone with a drill press where the table can tilt to have the face vertical then secure the top edge against the table in the right position.
If the hole saw isn't deep enough trim the waste after the first cut then continue a little deeper until you reach your mark.
You just need someone with a drill press where the table can tilt to have the face vertical then secure the top edge against the table in the right position.
If the hole saw isn't deep enough trim the waste after the first cut then continue a little deeper until you reach your mark.
Trimming end off the stock
Agree!!!' I knew I was not the only one who thought the same thing.
Agree!!!' I knew I was not the only one who thought the same thing.
Again I'm well aware of nfa rules and paper work involed. Please read the entire thread. THIS IS A REGISTERED SHORT BARREL RIFLE.
Now with that out of the way want to give you guys an update. I ended up using a round stone wheel on my dremmel. Worked very well, that plastic is very easy to work with and had it all done in about 30 minutes. Will post pics after form 1 comes back and the can is built and on the rifle.
Mods can you please update my original post to indicate somewhere that the rifle is a registered sbr? Thanks.
Now with that out of the way want to give you guys an update. I ended up using a round stone wheel on my dremmel. Worked very well, that plastic is very easy to work with and had it all done in about 30 minutes. Will post pics after form 1 comes back and the can is built and on the rifle.
Mods can you please update my original post to indicate somewhere that the rifle is a registered sbr? Thanks.
M cameron i thought about that, but this going to be a sort of a woods/truck/beater rifle that i realy dont care how it looks. I think after I registered it there is no way to get my moneys worth out of her. Will be passing in onto my kids grandkids. So looks are not even on radar.
dubbleA
Member
Hindsight is 20/20 but I think I would have cut the barrel about 3/4" longer.
It still amazes me that some don't have a clue on NFA items.
It still amazes me that some don't have a clue on NFA items.
Swampman
Old Fart
Honestly, with what you've got invested already, why not just get a new laminate stock?
I'm not familiar with the type of synthetic used on the 77/357, but I've found that most of my synthetic stocks transmit a lot of noise directly into the bones of my face and then into my ears.
It doesn't matter how good your can is, it won't do anything about noise transmitted through the stock.
Strangely enough, sometimes the "best" synthetic stocks are the worst offenders. A friends $550 Macmillan is loud enough to hurt my ears when DRY FIRING his Remington 700.
I've never had any noise problems with wood or laminate stocks. The slight increase in weight (mostly in the buttstock) also helps to counterbalance the weight of the suppressor and helps with the general handyness of the weapon.
All of the stocks below are under $100 (plus shipping) and they'd be easy to work with.
The final product would probably be a lot easier on the eyes as well as being more comfortable to shoot.
Even if you decide against getting a laminate stock, if your OEM stock transmits a lot of noise, consider putting a piece of 1/4" moleskin on the buttstock where your face contacts it.
www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetai...-barrel-channel-forest-camo-laminate-finished
www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetai...-factory-barrel-channel-black-textured-finish
www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetai...7-factory-barrel-channel-forest-camo-laminate
I'm not familiar with the type of synthetic used on the 77/357, but I've found that most of my synthetic stocks transmit a lot of noise directly into the bones of my face and then into my ears.
It doesn't matter how good your can is, it won't do anything about noise transmitted through the stock.
Strangely enough, sometimes the "best" synthetic stocks are the worst offenders. A friends $550 Macmillan is loud enough to hurt my ears when DRY FIRING his Remington 700.
I've never had any noise problems with wood or laminate stocks. The slight increase in weight (mostly in the buttstock) also helps to counterbalance the weight of the suppressor and helps with the general handyness of the weapon.
All of the stocks below are under $100 (plus shipping) and they'd be easy to work with.
The final product would probably be a lot easier on the eyes as well as being more comfortable to shoot.
Even if you decide against getting a laminate stock, if your OEM stock transmits a lot of noise, consider putting a piece of 1/4" moleskin on the buttstock where your face contacts it.
www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetai...-barrel-channel-forest-camo-laminate-finished
www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetai...-factory-barrel-channel-black-textured-finish
www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetai...7-factory-barrel-channel-forest-camo-laminate
I don't doubt that you had it cut to 10.5" on purpose and are building the rifle as you wanted, but just out of curiosity, is there any reason you didn't just have a barrel set an inch longer to avoid having to modify the stock?
I have dreamed of doing a PCC suppressed SBR for a long time and would love the info that lead to your decision. Some day I plan to do something similar.
I have dreamed of doing a PCC suppressed SBR for a long time and would love the info that lead to your decision. Some day I plan to do something similar.
Ben I intentionally wanted part of the silencer inside the stock, just like the look that way. Now kind of wish i went with a 8 inch barrel. Can that im going to build is gona be heavy as hell so wanted as much weight trimmed off as posible and get that heavy can closer to the center. 10 inch seems like a good compromise also because i want to run fast powder under heavy bullet. Wont be able to pack whole bunch of it in there before high pressure but i still want to get close to 1050fps with a cast 220 gr bullet. The reason for fast powder is because it will be quieter suppresed then something like h110 that will still be burning inside the can.
hope all of this make sense.
hope all of this make sense.
dubbleA
Member
If you plan on shooting thus suppressed only you could have permantently attached the can or used a permanent attached shroud to eliminate the sbr tax stamp.
In hindsight, yeah. But it would be a little late to file the paperwork at this point, lol. Most cans cost much more than $200.00, anyhow. Having the ability to clean it and to put it on other guns is probably worth more than $200.00 to anyone buying a can.
Also, permanently attaching a factory can is easier said than done. It seems like you need enough meat on there to blind pin it or to weld it without ruining the barrel.
Also, permanently attaching a factory can is easier said than done. It seems like you need enough meat on there to blind pin it or to weld it without ruining the barrel.
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