Trouble finding good 3006 reload

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nissantech

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I am very new to reloading and I have been working on reloading for my 3006. Now it is a Remington 700 1-10 twist and I am using IMR4350 56.5 gr with a Nosler ballistic tip 165 gr. I have played with 56-57 gr and seem to get the best results from the 56.5 gr. Also I can tell you that my rifle loves the Winchester 162 gr ballistic tip round and I actually took one apart to find it using 56 gr but I do not know powder. I do know that that bullet uses a Nosler ballistic tip. Remember I am very new and have only reloaded 50 rds of rifle but 1000 rds of pistol ammo. The powder in the Winchester was a flake type powder and I know IMR4350 is cylinder like. Thanks
 
Stop where you are, take a step back and a moment to reflect on your work. . .

First let me say this, if you dont have Lyman's 49 edition go get one.

Next, Nosler has a reloading guide. You can check load data there and compare it to Lyman as a double check.

IMR 4064 is THE classic '30-06 propellant. IMR 4895 is a great choice as well with mid weight bullets like you have. Your powder choice, from what I am reading would fare well with heavier bullets in the 200 grain range.

Lastly, the propellants used in commercial ammo like Winchester are usually not available to the public as is. Large ammo manufacturers use proprietary propellants and mixes of propellants. You should never ever try to guess their contents and never ever should you try to match what they have with what you yourself can find on the shelf.

One more thing, Lymans 49th says 57 grains of 4350 would be a compressed load and 56-57 grains is at the top end of the load data. If you stick with your combination of bullet weight and powder, maybe back off to 53 grains and see what happens then work back up to find a sweet spot if there is one. Otherwise switch to 4064, it is widely available.
 
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Most factory ammo is loaded with custom lots of blended powder.

Even if that ammo was loaded with off the shelf powder, the ammo factories would never tell you (liability),
so save yourself the headache of contacting them for load data on their factory stuff.

If you are not satisfied with the results of your loads, you might try a different powder.
IMR 4064 is a long time favorite, as is the 4350 you are using.

You do not state your current accuracy with the load you are using nor do you state your goals with the load.

JT
 
yes I know that the load I was using was at the top of the load chart. Also according to Nosler that was best accuracy combination used for that round. In regards to the expectations I have it would be that I could shoot sub MOA at 100 yards. The reason I took one of the Winchester rounds apart was because I could produce sub MOA with that round with three shoots. I also have not gone as far as to measure the bullet using a comparator. I will now venture to the lower powder charges but I wanted to start with what was considered good. When I loaded I also loaded 5-56gr, 5-56.5gr, and 5-57gr. to see what it would do. I also was very nervous about loading a compacted load. Would you consider 53gr being the lowest you would go with that load? Remember I am new and just trying to find the best round for my hunting rifle. Thanks
 
I used 54 grains of imr 4350 with Speer 150gr spire soft points as a deer load and have had great results with this rifle/load combination. Be safe always and happy loading.
 
I have been loading 57.0 gr IMR 4350 under a 150 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip for over 20 years with good results out of my 700 BDL..
 
Just because a manual shows a load to be the most accurate in their work up doesn't necessarily mean it will be best in your rifle. Your components and equipment won't be exactly the same as the ones used in the tests due to different lot numbers and manufacturing tolerances. Optimal and safe in one rifle can be overpressured in another. This is why we start low and work up slowly."Your results will vary!" My best 30/06 load uses H-380 and 150 grain Ballistic Tips and Sierras but I also get good results with 4350 and 180 grain Partitions. You may want to pick up a few more manuals and check out Hodgon' s web site for plenty more options. You can spend years trying combinations so make sure you keep good,detailed notes on what works,and what doesn't.
 
Thank everyone for all the information and I want everyone to know that this was just a starting point for me. What gr powder would you start with when using a 165 gr Nosler ballistic tip? I have listened and will start low to work high but what would be the low point for working the load? Also I have read about ladder testing and should I start that with the lower powder level or does that come later?
 
I use 58.0 grains of H4350 with 150 grain BTs. Someone on this site gave me that load so I'll pass it on. Very good out of my old Tikka.
 
"...expectations I have it would be that I could shoot sub MOA at 100 yards..." A Rem M700 is not a target rifle. It may or may not be capable of sub-MOA groups. Highly unlikely with hunting bullets at all.
"...actually took one apart..." Tells you absolutely nothing other than the weight and colour of the powder. That's all looking at the powder will ever tell you.
"...played with 56-57 gr..." You need to work up the load. Not just pick a few and hope. However, you are 3 or 4 grain below max with 56/57 grains. Hodgdon gives 56.0 as the starting load for a 165(max of 60.0(C).). Nosler 53.0(max of 57.0(C)). Both using a 24" barrel.
Difference is caused by when the tests were done. Manuals reflect data of the day of the test using the exact components and barrel. Partial to the powder maker's data myself.
 
i use 52 grains of IMR 4350 and 165 g hornady BTSP this is an accuracy load in the old spiral bound lyman manual. i shoot a Rem model 760 pump 30 06 and this load is super accurate in my gun. shoots 1 moa at 100yds.

Bull
 
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You are correct about the what the factory load told me but it was information, also you have to consider that I had to start some were. You have told me nothing about a load you are using so you are only going of off information not experience. Yes every gun, powder, temp, humidity, elevation, bullet ogive and so many other things will determine what MY gun likes. I would also argue that sub MOA is not possible and I think that a lot of other people will say the same thing. I am only trying to find what my rifle likes the best. That is the reason for taking one round apart for any information I could gain from it.
 
Reloading manuals only give the results of their lab testing for the listed powder, bullet, primer, and case. Duplicating those exact results are pretty hit and miss. They are results of what happened in their lab, not exact formula. A load may be listed as the most accurate, "optimum" load with the lot of powder they used, the lot of primers, bullets and brass used in their tests, but doubtful in your gun with your components. Safe reloading practice is to always start with the starting load and work up to find the perfect load for your gun, not start high with someone else's results.

For a new reloader I would say use a Nosler manual for loading Nosler bullets, start with the starting load for you bullet of choice, and load 5. Decide on an increment for increasing the charge (.3 gr. .5 gr. or whatever) and load 5 more. Do another group with the next higher load. Shoot these loads and record the results. When you get home from the range study the results to see if you need to change the load (most accurate loads aren't at the top of the load window). This method has worked for me for 30 years and I ain't blowed up no guns yet! (Thank you Jesus!).

And I experienced this, I didn't just read it somewhere. All information is good, but using that information in a haphazard way can be dangerous. I don't share my loads on a forum and I pay very little attention to load data posted on a forum. Yep, you have to start somewhere but in manuals the starting place is starting loads.... There's a reason why they are called starting loads.
 
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Hodgdon shows 56gr as the starting load and 60 gr as max. I've loaded 58.5 under various 165's for years with very good accuracy and about 2900 fps.

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle

A lot depends on the brass, which the OP does not state. My load is perfectly safe in my rifles with Remington or Winchester brass. Maybe not with Federal.

Either IMR4350 or H4350 is about as good as it gets for 150-180 gr 30-06 loads. I prefer H4350, but use both depending on availability. The loads are not interchangeable BTW. With some experimenting you should find a good load. Your rifle might not like Nosler bullets. It might be worth trying another brand.
 
mdi I thank you for the information you have given and respect the fact that you do not want anyone to be hurt from the load you recommend. I also want you to know that I did work with 5 loaded loads at 56 gr, 5 loaded loads at 56.5 gr, and 5 loaded loads at 57 gr,. After each shoot I would look for over pressure signs and I did not see any. Also I am not a person that will not just post to be posting, but when reloading at some point in time you have to get your feet wet. From the advice I have been given I will start to work on loads from 53 gr up in .5 gr increments. Thanks to all and just so everyone knows the last post was directed at sunray.
 
You may need a little more load work-up testing with your rifle. I'd experiment with some other bullets also. Some rifles show a big difference in accuracy switching from boat tailed bullets to flat based bullets. I've had better results with Hornady's flat based 150 and 165 grain bullets in my rifle but yours may differ. IMR 4350 should be a good choice for 150-165 gr. bullets. That's the great thing about reloading is being able to test and find what a rifle likes.
 
56.0 grs. is a pretty good starting point, so what I would do at this point is start tweaking the distance off the lands.

I was born into bottle neck, specifically 30-06 and .270 with IMR-4350 with 155's and 165's, as well Rem 700's. I've been able to obtain 1" or better groups with that combination, though every rifle is different, it should be obtainable, IMO.

This is how I would go about it. I would back the charge down to start, or there about. If the magazine will allow, seat the bullets .010" off the lands, then begin the powder work up at that oal. Then once you've found the most accurate charge. and if accuracy is still not up to your expectations, I would begin backing off the lands in .005" increments at that worked up charge, until you've found the most accurate oal.

GS
 
gamestalker that sounds good to me. The only reason that I chose to go with the Nosler ballistic tips is what I found Winchester is using in there ammo, so I figured that was a good place to start considering my rifle does great with those factory loads.
 
In my opinion, the seating depth is usually more important than the charge, but when you do load workups. shoot several groups of each load and average them. Then compare them to other loads. Only change one thing at a time. I would also start .010 off if you can seat that long and still fit your magazine. Each rifle is different, so if you can, try different bullets that are proven hunting bullets. You might be surprised that your rifle like one better than another, no matter what powder you try. The same with powders, it might like one more than others.
 
I've been using IMR4350 for decades in my 700, the sweet spot for mine is 57gr behind the Hornady 165 BT. As stated it's wise to work it up for yours from published data.
 
If you are just punching paper, you might consider the Sierra Matchking in either 168, or 175. Reloader 15 works pretty good in my '06. The hottest load is not necessarily the most accurate, but your mileage may vary...
 
In my opinion, the seating depth is usually more important than the charge, but when you do load workups. shoot several groups of each load and average them
Then can you explain how some factory ammo such as Federal Gold medal match shoots great in a variety of rifles?? The seating depth is exactly the same, +/- a few thousandth in every round and the charge is the same. It is not tailored to any firearm as far as seating depth is concerned, yet performs outstanding in so many firearms across many calibers. I am not saying SD has nothing to do with accuracy, but to say it is more important than charge isn't a fair statement. Plus when a new reloader is just learning, most have no idea that pressures can increase when seating close to the lands. The same load that is jumping the bullet 40 thou with no pressure signs can start causing flattened primers and sticky bolt when seating 10 to 20 thou off the lands.:uhoh:
 
Interesting thread as I'm in the same boat as nissantech. I also have a Remington 700 in .30-06 that I'm loading for and trying to tweak its accuracy a bit. I loaded 165 grain Nosler Accubonds, seated at 3.320" from case head to tip (2.720" from case head to ogive), in new Winchester brass, full length sized and trimmed, Winchester primers, and used IMR4350 at charge weights of 54.0, 54.5, 55.0, 55.5, 56.0, 56.5 and 57.0. in groups of 5 rounds each. We've had a lot of wind and rain the past few days so I haven't actually been able to get to the range to try these and chronograph them. Hope to be able to do that tomorrow or Wednesday.
 
I would love to hear what the results are from your trip to the range utvolsfan77. It sounds like we are in the same boat. What tool are you using to measure the ogive? I was thinking of getting the sinclair hex shaped tool. Also how much jump are you going from the lands? It sounds like this will be the next step for me is to start working on the load from the bottom. At what distance are you going to shoot? I have heard that for a ladder test you should have a min. distance of 300 yards.
 
Concerning seating depth, I could never get my 700 to group well until I adjusted seating depth. I go .025" off the lands. I use the Hornady stuff to measure seating depth. It makes a big difference with my 700, less so with my Tikka. I think my 700 was machined a little deep.
 
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