TulAmmo 357 Magnum ammo.

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stchman

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I recently purchased some TulAmmo 357 Magnum and took it to the range to shoot it in my Taurus Model 66 7 shot revolver.

The ammo shot well, the problem is that ejection was very difficult. Besides not using, is there anything I can do to ease the ejection process. I have come to the conclusion that the polymer coating on the cases is rougher than the super smooth brass casing.

Thanks.
 
Try cleaning and polishing your chambers using a brass bore brush wrapped with 0 or 0-0 steel wool and a little bit of oil. Make sure to swab all the metal remnants from those cylinders with a clean patch.

This has worked for me to stop Com Bloc steel case ammo from sticking in semi auto chambers, should work for a revolver too.
 
I haven't seen the Tulammo in .357, the cheapest I've scored lately was by Perfecta, at $16 plus tax, which is damn hard to beat for brass-cased 357, over-the-counter. What's the Tulammo stuff running?
 
Try cleaning and polishing your chambers using a brass bore brush wrapped with 0 or 0-0 steel wool and a little bit of oil. Make sure to swab all the metal remnants from those cylinders with a clean patch.

This has worked for me to stop Com Bloc steel case ammo from sticking in semi auto chambers, should work for a revolver too.
I was thinking of doing what the rimfire guys do and coat the cases of the rounds in Preparation H. I know it sounds weird, but it is actually a good lube for .22LR ammo.
 
YIKES!! $22 shipping on 2 boxes !! That doubles the price !! Two boxes of Perfecta at Walmart would total $36, and that's brass-cased and made in Italy. ;) Using one of their free shipping codes, Sportsmanguide is also very competetive.
I didn't buy just TWO boxes, I bought 10. IIRC, I bought a bunch of ammo.
 
AIM Surplus generally has good prices on high quality ammo. Here's their .357 prices: http://aimsurplus.com/catalog.aspx?groupid=106&name=.357+Magnum
I decided on getting 10 boxes of the PPU FPJ ammo.

I was going to have a buddy of mine reload 357, but the cost savings was minimal for 500 rounds as I needed primers, bullets, powder, and cases. This of course did not include me paying him. Now that I will have lots of cases, my cost the 2nd time around will be less.
 
It's the steel case, sticky/difficult extraction seems to be a common issue with this ammo and revolvers. Buy some brass cased ammo and start saving brass. Instead of having your buddy reload it for you, have him show you how to reload it.
 
It's the steel case, sticky/difficult extraction seems to be a common issue with this ammo and revolvers. Buy some brass cased ammo and start saving brass. Instead of having your buddy reload it for you, have him show you how to reload it.
I have done some reloading in the past and quite frankly I find it to be boring and repetitive. I have little to no desire to reload ammo when I can simply buy it. My buddy really seems to like it, so I can pay him.
 
I bought 1,000 rounds of the steel-cased .38 Special. It also stuck in the cylinders after firing in my 642. I had to carefully tap on the ejection rod with a mallet to extract the cases after firing. I made it through the case of ammo but won't be buying any more.

Aluminum cases work fine when extracting. The Blazer aluminum cases don't fit well in my moon-clips, which can be used in my other revolvers, however.
 
Wonder how hot those Russian .357s are running? Are they just another semi-warm .38 special in a .357 length case, or is it some punchy stuff?
 
I caught some of that Perfecta stuff too, at Walmart. Seemed a bit hot to me, but I'm a bit recoil-sensitive.
 
I used some Ballistol on the cases instead of Preparation H and it appeared to work better. The cases were still stuck but a light tap ejected them.

I probably won't be buying anymore of this .357 ammo, but it does shoot pretty good.
 
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