Tung Oil Finish is done, but a different final coat?

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The tung oil is complete on my walnut Mannlicher stock. A dull matte finish. I'd like to add just a little gloss. Many sources say to put one or two coats of linseed on top, to finish it off (Professional Stockmaking by Wesbrook, et al), another says paste wax after oil rests for a few weeks, another says CC Lemons conditioning oil but also to give a final wipe w mineral spirits (no reason given, from Mark Silver).

The tung oil just too matte for me, it needs a touch more. Any recommendations?
 
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After many coats of finish I let the stock finish cure for about 3-4 weeks, and then use rottenstone powder on a dampened rag to hand rub the finish. When applied and rubbed the finish will first get a duller look, and any powder residue gets wiped off with a dampened cloth. Then I use a rag to rub in Minn Wax paste wax all over the finish, and buff it with a soft terrycloth towel. The end result is always a beautiful sheen that isn't satin, but not too glossy either. Just a nice hand rubbed shine.
 
He wants a glossier finish ... not a matte finish.

I used to use Formby's tung oil for gun stocks and my wood arrows, but couldn't get the smaller containers any longer. A family member to my wife's family makes 'high end' custom furniture and he turned me onto the Arm-R-Seal wipe on varnishes, which go on thin and dry quickly. I build up the finish with the gloss and if a matte finish is desired, the last 2 coats are either the satin or matte version of the gloss.

The DEPTH of chatoyance the multiple coats give to premium wood stocks, like on highly figured tiger-striped maple that I sometimes use, is UNREAL!

Example:
1717171062881.png
 
He wants a glossier finish ... not a matte finish.

Did you even really read my reply?
My method does provide a glossier finish. It is only more matted after rubbing it out with rottenstone. That doesn't mean it's matted afterwards. Just like when you use polishing compound or 2000 grit to sand a paint job after it's painted.
The rottenstone smooths out the finish and leaves it glassy smooth. So after applying the Minn Wax paste and buffing it the finish is glossy.
 
The tung oil is complete on my walnut Mannlicher stock. A dull matte finish. I'd like to add just a little gloss. Many sources say to put one or two coats of linseed on top, to finish it off (Professional Stockmaking by Wesbrook, et al), another says paste wax after oil rests for a few weeks, another says CC Lemons conditioning oil but also to give a final wipe w mineral spirits (no reason given, from Mark Silver).

The tung oil just too matte for me, it needs a touch more. Any recommendations?
I would let dry well and ... Good Paste Wax ... 2 coats !

A good wax not only adds some shine but also protection ...
Expensive wood furniture and a nice car ... you wax it !
I vote for a good Pure Carnauba Wax or good furniture wax like Lundmark brand ... they make several .
Gary
 
All - I bought some linseed oil as my final coat, but based on your replies I am holding off on that.

Lefty - those before n after photos are amazing, just astounding, but the wipe-on formula sounds too easy. Does the nice finish last? How many coats to produce that look?

Left and Gwpercle - you two are the wax crowd. Wax was a good option, but Lefty's photos of the Arm-r-seal are supernatural.

CoalC - BS's True Oil is the old standby, but as you said, I don't know how it will be on a tung base. I don't want to risk my hard work.
 
Lefty - those before n after photos are amazing, just astounding, but the wipe-on formula sounds too easy. Does the nice finish last? How many coats to produce that look?
I go for at least 8 coats and its the only finish I use on the matchlock or flint longrifles I make. I hunt w/ the longrifles from late NOV to mid JAN the next year and the finish has held up well, whereas I recall that a 7x57 Mauser that I once refinished had spots turn whitish in damp/wet weather.

Arm-R-Seal is toot sweet easy to redo an area without affecting or refinishing the rest of the stock.
 
I go for at least 8 coats and its the only finish I use on the matchlock or flint longrifles I make. I hunt w/ the longrifles from late NOV to mid JAN the next year and the finish has held up well, whereas I recall that a 7x57 Mauser that I once refinished had spots turn whitish in damp/wet weather.

Arm-R-Seal is toot sweet easy to redo an area without affecting or refinishing the rest of the stock.
8 coats, wow. Sounds a little heavy but I'm game. Thanks for the info, I'm adding this to my woodworking arsenal.
 
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All - I bought some linseed oil as my final coat, but based on your replies I am holding off on that.

Lefty - those before n after photos are amazing, just astounding, but the wipe-on formula sounds too easy. Does the nice finish last? How many coats to produce that look?

Left and Gwpercle - you two are the wax crowd. Wax was a good option, but Lefty's photos of the Arm-r-seal are supernatural.

CoalC - BS's True Oil is the old standby, but as you said, I don't know how it will be on a tung base. I don't want to risk my hard work.
Here is a video of someone buffing out Tom's Mix that shows the final finish. Satiny - a little gloss but not super-gloss.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soxLhMbfLg4

It was his attempt to duplicate the wax used on Finnish M39 Rifles.
 
I use Tom’s ‘1/3rd Mix’ on my military rifles, after coats of Military Ix thin oil stain w/ a red/brown color in it.

8 coats, wow. Sounds a little heavy but I'm game. Thanks for the info, I'm adding this to my woodworking arsenal.
8 coats is nothing, with hand rubbed oil coats I’ll go up to 12 on longrifle stocks w/ outrageous flamed tiger-striped maple. Easy/peasy, dries fast, 1 coat per day.
 
He wants a glossier finish ... not a matte finish.

I used to use Formby's tung oil for gun stocks and my wood arrows, but couldn't get the smaller containers any longer. A family member to my wife's family makes 'high end' custom furniture and he turned me onto the Arm-R-Seal wipe on varnishes, which go on thin and dry quickly. I build up the finish with the gloss and if a matte finish is desired, the last 2 coats are either the satin or matte version of the gloss.

The DEPTH of chatoyance the multiple coats give to premium wood stocks, like on highly figured tiger-striped maple that I sometimes use, is UNREAL!

Example:
View attachment 1212419

I am going to jump in and jump out of this conversation with a question. Were those results with the Arm-R-Seal after a tung oil finish? Or was it done on raw wood? The real question here is is the Arm-R-Seal is compatible with a tung oil finish?
 
Raw wood. I have used it on wood cedar arrows previously finished w/ Formby’s satin tung oil and it was fine. They appear similar in form and color, although the ARS is thinner
 
I am sticking with Birchwood Casey's Genuine Oil, which is a tung oil blend, to finish this rifle. I tried BLO, but it cures so slowly, even the "boiled" version, that I couldn't take it. Genuine Oil has issues, for sure, but at least I know what they are now.
 
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Lots of gun museums (and museums in general) use Renaissance Wax. I love it for my firearms and musical instruments.Try googling it, and see the applications and rave reviews.
 
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