Tung oil finish

[shoebox1.1]

So I’m getting a 686 no dash and wanted to put factory stocks back on it and scored some smooth targets on auction site cheap. Did some research and settled on a 100% pure dark Tung oil finish. I’m impressed to say the least. Sanded with 220 then some brown scotchbrite. One coat not thinned and wiped off excess after 1 hour. I think I’m going to do 2-3 coats and call it good

 

[cfullgraf]

I oiled with linseed oil several Garand and M1 carbine stocks and let them dry for a day or two before applying the next coat.

You might consider letting your finish more drying time between coats.

Frustrating because it extends the process but I feel you get better results in the long run.

 

[ontarget]

Looks good.

 

[shoebox1.1]

Yes I’ll do next coat early next week

 

[Atavar]

Be aware that tung oil is just a very thin varnish. I would suggest coating with a high quality oil based polyurethane for real protection after you get the oil finish you want.

Hey, our Dogs look like they could be related.

 

[Pat Riot]

I do the same when using Tung oil. I put it on, let it be for 30-60 minutes , depending on the weather, then wipe it down. If it’s cool and humid I leave for an hour. If it’s dry and hot the longest I will leave is 30 minutes. I usually recoat in 24-48 hours depending on the weather.

Usually on hard woods, 3 coats works unless the wood is more porous.

Your grip panels look nice.

 

[willb]

I've used tung oil on handgun and rifle stocks many times over the years. My preference is a 50/50 cut with turpentine - multiple coats rubbed down with #0000 steel wool between coats. I've always been pleased.

Nice firearm by the way. Congratulations.

 

[bangswitch]

Recoat until you get the depth of color you like, let them dry thoroughly for a week, then very lightly buff them with 5-0 steel wool, wipe them again and then wax them to add a measure of water repellency. An oil finish does not seal the wood at the surface and must be occasionally re-done, and will allow skin oils to penetrate the finish, adding color and patina where your fingers grip.

 

[buck460XVR]

Just a note of caution with Tung Oil. While it in itself is not very flammable due to it's slow drying process, rags used with it, need to have the proper precautions used to make sure they do not spontaneously ignite. This is even more important with other oil finishes like Linseed and Danish oils. Being in residential construction for 40 some years, I witnessed several Dumpster fires due to homeowners/painting contractors improperly disposing of their oil saturated rags. I also walked in on a fire just starting in a new home I was building, because the Stainer haphazardly thru his staining rags on the floor in a heap. He thought that by using a piece of Styrofoam underneath them it would be safe. The heat produced by the rags melted thru the foam and they were smouldering on the brink of combustion. The fumes produced by the melting of the Styrofoam could have killed someone. Hang them on something safe till they dry completely or place them in water, till you can dispose of them properly.

 

[BobWright]

While I usually prefer a bit more sheen, I opt for Tru Oil finish on my grips.



This linseed oil only for a more "rustic" look:




Bob Wright

 

[shoebox1.1]

Just a note of caution with Tung Oil. While it in itself is not very flammable due to it's slow drying process, rags used with it, need to have the proper precautions used to make sure they do not spontaneously ignite. This is even more important with other oil finishes like Linseed and Danish oils. Being in residential construction for 40 some years, I witnessed several Dumpster fires due to homeowners/painting contractors improperly disposing of their oil saturated rags. I also walked in on a fire just starting in a new home I was building, because the Stainer haphazardly thru his staining rags on the floor in a heap. He thought that by using a piece of Styrofoam underneath them it would be safe. The heat produced by the rags melted thru the foam and they were smouldering on the brink of combustion. The fumes produced by the melting of the Styrofoam could have killed someone. Hang them on something safe till they dry completely or place them in water, till you can dispose of them properly.

I read about that and the product recommends hanging them to dry before disposal. So thanks for the heads up. Last thing I need is a burned down house! The stocks are looking REALLY good after 24 hrs! I did add another coat last night, I couldn’t help myself lol. I do have some gun stock wax from the gun stock doctor. I used to put it on surplus rifles. I’ll put some of that on top after it’s all said and done

 

[GBExpat]

Be aware that tung oil is just a very thin varnish.

No. Products named Tung Oil Finish are varnishes.

Tung Oil is the real deal.

 

[shoebox1.1]

And this stuff is the real deal 100% pure but they do add a resin for the “dark” color

 

[shoebox1.1]

Here two coats pretty dang dry. Lil spot of oil comes out once in while Mid week I’ll do 3rd coat. Sorry I keep posting pics I’m just so excited lol

 

[Pat Riot]

Looks good @shoebox1.1

 

[JeffG]

Looks good. I continue to buff with a soft rag after it's dry.

 

[roo_ster]

I love 100% tung oil, regular or dark. I always cut it with something: orange oil or odorless mineral spirits usually. I rub on, let it sit 15min or so, wipe off excess and repeat until it will no longer suck it up. Then I let it sit until it is properly cured. I usually top it off with wax.

 

[Thomasss]

I re-did a Beretta 682 Golden E and my dealer couldn't believe it was the same gun I showed him a few years ago. Tung oil can be also used to correct urethane issues.
I also got a walnut S&W 14-4 grips with a couple of scrapes on the bottom. Some light sanding, a little stain and clear tung oil and they look brand new. Remember many pros will cut tung oil very lightly, like 1 to 10 with mineral spirits, but also with a touch of urethane and hand rub it in. The heat of your hand and it's smoothness will help blend it in. And it washes off with hair shampoo real easy. No dust in the finish like with urethane.

 

[Brian Williams]

I prefer Waterlox, it seals and hardens. As an Industrial Arts teacher I have used this or Tung oil on wood surfaces.
I put a little on the palm of my hand and rub it in as hard as I can. It takes a long time but will seal the wood and smooth it down to a satin finish, More rubbing and more oil can produce a shiny finish that goes into the wood.
Google French polish and do the same thing with the tung oil.

 

[shoebox1.1]

3rd and final Tung coat.