natedog
Member
What kind of Mauser should I buy? Which one is of the highest quality? What kind shoots better? The cheapest one was the Turkish, only $50 from J&G Sales. Are there any big differences?
Turkish, Yugoslavian, Czeck, or Egyptian Mausers?
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Cosmoline
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I've owned Czech VZ-24's, a variety of Turks, and a couple of Yugo M-48's. All have been good shooters, with the exception of a few Turks. I'd suggest starting with either a good condition VZ-24 or an unissued M-48's. As far as I know the Eygptian are just M-48's from a batch that was never shipped.
There are an astonishing array of military surplus Mausers out there from Siamese to Chilean and from Swedish to Israeli. Parts may or may not be the same between rifles, as each nation tends to have a series of rifles built off a particular model Mauser. The Swedes used the '96 action, no the '98. Others, like the Yugoslavians, used a slightly shorter '98 action. It's complicated. The watchword is MAUSER '98! If you see three locking lugs and a gas vent on the bolt, that's a good sign you've got a '98. These are very strong actions, but earlier Mauser weren't quite as foolproof. Thus, an Israeli Mauser in .308 on a '98 action is safer than a Mexican Mauser in .308 using an earlier action.
The Turks can be better than their reputation, but they tend to have odd and potentially dangerous modifications. I've seen Turks in 8x57JS built on older Mauser '93 receivers and bolts. It would be nutty to fire hot loaded 8x57JS, ESPECIALLY the Turkish surplus ammo, out of such a rifle. You have only two lugs and no gas escape vent. Not much better than firing hot .30'06 out of a Krag rifle! The Turk '98's should not have this problem, though they aren't know for the accuracy.
That said, while I've heard many accounts of Springfield 1903's blowing up and sending bolts back, I've never heard of any Mauser sending its bolt into the shooter's face. Stick to the '98 and (with 6.5x55) the '96 and you should be quite safe. Headspace will need to be checked and watched, of course.
Overall, the unissued M-48's are a good entry into the world of Mausers. Just be ready to clean up a LOT of my namesake.
There are an astonishing array of military surplus Mausers out there from Siamese to Chilean and from Swedish to Israeli. Parts may or may not be the same between rifles, as each nation tends to have a series of rifles built off a particular model Mauser. The Swedes used the '96 action, no the '98. Others, like the Yugoslavians, used a slightly shorter '98 action. It's complicated. The watchword is MAUSER '98! If you see three locking lugs and a gas vent on the bolt, that's a good sign you've got a '98. These are very strong actions, but earlier Mauser weren't quite as foolproof. Thus, an Israeli Mauser in .308 on a '98 action is safer than a Mexican Mauser in .308 using an earlier action.
The Turks can be better than their reputation, but they tend to have odd and potentially dangerous modifications. I've seen Turks in 8x57JS built on older Mauser '93 receivers and bolts. It would be nutty to fire hot loaded 8x57JS, ESPECIALLY the Turkish surplus ammo, out of such a rifle. You have only two lugs and no gas escape vent. Not much better than firing hot .30'06 out of a Krag rifle! The Turk '98's should not have this problem, though they aren't know for the accuracy.
That said, while I've heard many accounts of Springfield 1903's blowing up and sending bolts back, I've never heard of any Mauser sending its bolt into the shooter's face. Stick to the '98 and (with 6.5x55) the '96 and you should be quite safe. Headspace will need to be checked and watched, of course.
Overall, the unissued M-48's are a good entry into the world of Mausers. Just be ready to clean up a LOT of my namesake.
Blackcloud6
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I have a Turk, A Yugo and WWII german. For a good shooter get one of the Yugo's in excellent to unissued conditons. Tack driver!
thumbtack
Member
I have Yugo. It is not the prettiest rifle, but it groups well.
As far as which ones shoot the best, it depends upon the bore. You'll find good bores as well as pitted and worn out examples in all the different mausers. In my opinon the turks are the best buys right now for an affordable shooter. The Yugo 48 and 48A's are nice rifles as well. It's harder to find a good bore on a VZ 24, the are very well made rifles. To me they have the most history behind them as well.
Lots of good advice here. My 2 cents: If you want accuracy out of the box, get a Swede or a Persian mauser. Samco has Persians in great shape for $250ish. The Persian is in 8mm and the surplus ammo cost is very low at this time. The Swedes ammo cost is high, similar to 30-06 cost.
Only some of the earliest 1903 Springfields's had the brittle metal-exploding problem, later serial numbers will not have this problem. You can get a decent (and safe) one from CMP for about $450.
Turks are hit and miss, I have one that clover leafs at 100 yards with iron sights and another that can't get better than about 6-8" at that distance. And that is with WWII era Turk ammo for both rifles.
Also, there have been some Russian capture Nazi K98s on the market as of late. $200-300 depending on condition.
A great forum for all types of C&R rifles is
http://pub109.ezboard.com/bparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums
Only some of the earliest 1903 Springfields's had the brittle metal-exploding problem, later serial numbers will not have this problem. You can get a decent (and safe) one from CMP for about $450.
Turks are hit and miss, I have one that clover leafs at 100 yards with iron sights and another that can't get better than about 6-8" at that distance. And that is with WWII era Turk ammo for both rifles.
Also, there have been some Russian capture Nazi K98s on the market as of late. $200-300 depending on condition.
A great forum for all types of C&R rifles is
http://pub109.ezboard.com/bparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums
cracked butt
Member
I'm with You on this one. The Swedes and Persians are pretty much the Cadillacs and Lexus' of the milsurp world. They were better made than most rifles, are very accurate, and were really well taken care of. For about $100 more than you'd pay for a Yugo- (the car comparison still works here
) you get a problem free rifle that is almost guaranteed to be accurate.St. Gunner
Member
Nate,
I have 3 turks, one in stock condition I shoot all the time, I can shoot about a 2" group at 100yds with it. I have a junker, bought for $20+ bucks from SOG. And I have a Turk I have been working on, a close range scout config for hog blasting in the brush. I'll try to attach a pic of it, it lacks a scope mount at present, but should be remedied soon by a gunsmith I know. What you see in the pic I did all myself, except the kid I had help on her.
I'll take some pics of the locking lugs and stuff if you want em, all you are looking for is two locking lugs near the bolt face and one that locks into the rear bridge on the action.
I have 3 turks, one in stock condition I shoot all the time, I can shoot about a 2" group at 100yds with it. I have a junker, bought for $20+ bucks from SOG. And I have a Turk I have been working on, a close range scout config for hog blasting in the brush. I'll try to attach a pic of it, it lacks a scope mount at present, but should be remedied soon by a gunsmith I know. What you see in the pic I did all myself, except the kid I had help on her.
I'll take some pics of the locking lugs and stuff if you want em, all you are looking for is two locking lugs near the bolt face and one that locks into the rear bridge on the action.
Attachments
the turks are decent shooters...especially for the money.But, I have a really hard time focusing on the front sight at times. I have two of them and generally get 4" to 6" groups at 100 yds.
I recently saw one of the $130 yugos (from S.O.G...I think) that looked and felt really nice. I am also pleased with my Mark X in 243. Not milsurp, but yugo and nice.
I recently saw one of the $130 yugos (from S.O.G...I think) that looked and felt really nice. I am also pleased with my Mark X in 243. Not milsurp, but yugo and nice.
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