Twilight hunting/scope

[bob4]

Where I hunt we are allowed to shoot 30 minutes after sunset. I ran into a situation last season that I had to pass on a buck because I couldn't see my x-hairs. I could see the buck fine in the scope. So now I'm thinking lighted reticle. Adjustable. I don't think I want to be looking into a flash light. I've been using a Z-3 3-10x42. So I would stay in that class. Putting it on a Rem 700 300 Win Mag.

• Anyone use one for this reason?
• Recommendations?

 

[toiville2feathers]

In Minnesota we have the same law. It has been my experience that 1/2 hr before sunrise or after sunset there is plenty of light available to shoot by, even on cloudy days.
The question now is what are you using to determine when legal shooting time is? Do your game laws provide you with a time table. Depending on if you are on the east side of your time zone, versus the west side of your time zone can come into play.
The disappearance of the sun is not the correct time of sunset.

 

[hq]

A very similar thread is going on in the rifle accessory section. I wrote some basic principles and recommendations there: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=768698

 

[jmr40]

He could see the buck just fine, it was the crosshairs that he couldn't see. The 30 min before and after sunrise/sunset is pretty standard and I've never had an issue with almost any decent scope. It is only long after or before legal shooting time that seeing game is an issue.

I can't say for sure about an illuminated reticle. I've played around a little with dot sights and find that I can see the dot, but the illuminated dot makes it harder to see the intended target in low light. I've just never used a scope with an illuminated reticle. Looked at them in stores and they might work.

I do know that a scope with a thicker reticle will make a big difference in low light. That is my preference. No batteries and a lighter more compact scope.

 

[bob4]

Thanks all. Just for the record. The lighting will depend where you are hunting. If it's over a a large field and the moon is up,yes, light is fine after 30 minutes. But if your in the woods light is a bunch less after 30 minutes. And wanting to make ethical shots I want to know where my round is going. In the instance I am speaking the buck came out I could make out an out line and see at least 6 points. What I could not see was my x-hairs once I placed them on the deer. Good chance I could have taken the shot at 100+/- or so yds and killed but I passed not being 100% sure. I think I slightly lighted reticle would have made a difference.

The question now is what are you using to determine when legal shooting time is?

I'm not sure why that's "the question" but... Pretty easy. Apps on the phone tell me when sunset is, 30 minutes after that is pretty easy too.

 

[der Teufel]

As you've noted, the main issue will be finding a scope with illuminated crosshairs that don't blind you by being too bright. I'm sure they exist, but I haven't seen any yet.

 

[gamestalker]

A Leupold with an illuminated reticle would solve your problem. I'm pretty sure they offer them in most of their current scopes. 4.5x14 would do the trick.

GS

 

[Manny]

I have a Trijicon 3-9x42 w/ amber mildot reticule I like very much. It's got a great rep for a low light scope, Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat, an avid pig hunter, has stated it's a favorite of his for nocturnal pig hunting.

 

[MichaelK]

Quick question about these new illuminated crosshairs. Is the crosshair still viable if the battery goes dead, or does it disappear completely? My biggest beef with red dot sights is that I'm always replacing batteries. Is the scope useless if the battery goes dead?

 

[bob4]

The ones I have seen are still usable without batteries. Just a normal scope .

 

[Grumulkin]

A Leupold with an illuminated reticle would solve your problem.

I have several scopes with illuminated reticles and the ones I like the best are my Leupold Mark 4s. The illumination is adjustable so they won't blind you. I also have Nightforce scopes which all have illuminated reticles.

 

[Haxby]

The illuminated reticles I've looked at light up too much of the reticle, IMO, so I think something like a Leupold firedot would be the way to go.
No personal experience with these scopes.
The Leupold VX6 is available with a firedot reticle.
Meopta make scopes in that range with a #4 plus a dot.

 

[Art Eatman]

Way years ago I had a problem finding the crosshairs in poor light, but it was due to the fine cross hairs. Once they came out with the Duplex deal, no more problems.

 

[urbaneruralite]

Heavy post reticle like the German #4 was designed for that situation.

 

[1911 guy]

I wonder how well the Trijicon hunting scopes work in this type of situation. They require no batteries, but use a large fiberoptic pipe to funnel ambient light to the reticle. Being ambient light, it would also have less chance of washing out the target.

No personal experience with them, just wondering about an option.

 

[Sunray]

"...I couldn't see my x-hairs..." Not taking the shot is commendable. Think in terms of having to find Bambi in the dark. Especially after losing your gently acquired night vision with an illuminated reticle.
Just because you can shoot 30 minutes after sunset(pretty standard thing nearly everywhere), doesn't mean you should.

 

[bob4]

"...I couldn't see my x-hairs..." Not taking the shot is commendable. Think in terms of having to find Bambi in the dark. Especially after losing your gently acquired night vision with an illuminated reticle.
Just because you can shoot 30 minutes after sunset(pretty standard thing nearly everywhere), doesn't mean you should.

Exactly my point. It's all about ethics. Losing my night vision in the slightly illuminated reticle I could live with. I get that one chance 10 minutes after the other guy has to pack it in. I only need a few seconds to decide. My whole point behind behind buying a nice scope is that I actually get an extra 10 or so minutes of hunting time. Doesn't sound like much but it's all worth it when the big guy steps out well after $19.95 scopes have to quit for the eve. With the illumination I can have a few more minutes.
I would also like to take back the 30 minute rule. Seems SC ( where my lease is) allows 60 minutes before and after "Official sunset time. So it's getting dark folks.

 

[herkyguy]

I've got a Leupold Mk4 illuminated reticle on a Remington 700, but i don't hunt with that rifle. Great scope if you're committed to illumination. On my 30-06 Model 70, I've got a Zeiss Conquest 4-12 with the rapid Z. In NC we can shoot 30 minutes after sunset as well and I've found the Zeiss provides plenty of low light shooting ability even without an illuminated reticle.

just my two cents.

 

[hq]

"...I couldn't see my x-hairs..." Not taking the shot is commendable. Think in terms of having to find Bambi in the dark. Especially after losing your gently acquired night vision with an illuminated reticle.

Illumination must be adjustable and dim enough not to ruin your night vision. Additionally, red light wavelengths affect your eyes the least in that regard, in case someone has wondered why map lights on yachts are usually red.

Once you have taken the shot and if, for one reason or another, the animal has run more than a few yards, it's time to pull out a thermal imager. They're great for finding downed game and even fresh tracks, especially on cold weather. On nighttime hunts we also always have a dog handler standing by within a half an hour driving distance and everybody is prepared to track a wounded animal all night if need be. The most important consideration, of course, is to be extra careful deciding whether to take the shot or not.

 

[redneck2]

I have a VX-3 with a Firedot that I bought for a bear hunt in Canada. Even during the afternoon, in heavy pines during rain against a black bear the reticule disappears.

Firedot is awesome. Extremely fine. Shuts off if the rifle isn't moved, then turns back on when you pick it up. Now I have it on my deer rifle

 

[AKElroy]

I find I lose the ability to properly judge game prior to losing the ability to take it if I want it. I can place a killing shot in low light just fine; but determining with certainty the maturity/quality of the animal is in question for me when light fades.

We hunt feeders on our place, with cameras tracking the game traffic. I generally know what I want to shoot based on the photos and the times the animals a most likely to present. Low light ups the chance for taking the wrong animal.

This has not been the case this year, though. Heavy spring rain has given us a record crop of acorns, and the deer far prefer them to corn. Nothing is coming to the feeders, so my son and I have actually had to hunt this year to take the three we have so far.

 

[AKElroy]

To the OP's question, I like the light gathering ability of Leupolds, Nikon and Bushnell Elite series. I have four rifles wearing various Leupolds, so I guess I lean towards them from a quality/confidence standpoint. I have Nikon's on two, and I am always impressed with their clarity, even compared to the more expensive Leupolds. Ironically, the brightest, clearest glass I own belongs to a Bushnell Elite 5x15x50. It is my only 50, so I am sure that is part of it, but it definitely sucks in the most available light of any of my others. A joy to look through. Pricey for something wearing the Bushnell name, but they are excellent glass if one can get past the ignorant snickers of the others around the campfire.

 

[hq]

I find I lose the ability to properly judge game prior to losing the ability to take it if I want it. I can place a killing shot in low light just fine; but determining with certainty the maturity/quality of the animal is in question for me when light fades.

If you're interested in trophy quality, game management aspect and especially if you're limited by your tag what you can and can not shoot, that's very understandable. That's why I only hunt meat at night and as far as tags are concerned, a deer is a deer is a deer around here. Sometimes you get more than you bargained for, I just got one of the "accidental" trophy bucks back from the taxidermist this week and, to be honest, I didn't have a slightest idea it had quite awesome antlers when I pulled the trigger...

 

[AKElroy]

Our place is low-fenced and not game managed, so we don't have any real trophies either. I just don't want to shoot a yearling doe or button buck; I need a little light to see some belly-sway and age related features to know I'm not about to take a 70lb animal.

 

[short barrel]

I've been hunting for more than 50 years, and I've yet to put a scope on my rifle. Put a peep on the rear and a fiber optic on the front. Visible in the worst of light conditions. Make sure your rear peep is has a large enough aperture. However, I live in the east and never have a shot more than 150 yards. Up to that distance, I can easily see my sights. Even on a .22 for squirrels, which are most always killed within 50 yards, peep sights will do the job, and you don't have to worry about knocking your scope out of alignment.

I was raised by parents who had limited income; scopes on guns were unheard of. I learned to get close and place my shots carefully with open sights. Use peeps and you'll feel much better about your ability to shoot accurately.