I usually make mental notes of a few visible features (bushes, ditches, branches, fences, whatever) when there's still light and use them as yardsticks. It has worked pretty well, I don't think I've ever shot anything smaller than a 150lb deer at night. Spikers can be fairly big, though, but the places I hunt have a metric cr*pload of deer and harvesting a less than desirable one every now and then for meat is not a big deal.
Twilight hunting/scope
- Thread starter bob4
- Start date
- Status
I usually make mental notes of a few visible features (bushes, ditches, branches, fences, whatever) when there's still light and use them as yardsticks. It has worked pretty well, I don't think I've ever shot anything smaller than a 150lb deer at night. Spikers can be fairly big, though, but the places I hunt have a metric cr*pload of deer and harvesting a less than desirable one every now and then for meat is not a big deal.
Flintknapper
Member
Bob, you are exactly on track. Under the circumstance you describe...an illuminated reticle (along with with decent glass) will provide you just what you need.
A good point you make (either lost on...or not experienced by some), is the fact that it gets MUCH darker in tall timber than out in the open LONG before legal shooting time has ended.
Where I hunt (Deep East Texas, Pineywoods), I deal with this every time I go hunting, so I am familiar with your dilemma.
When picking a scope....I would recommend you find something with only an illuminated dot (not the entire reticle). Also, it is imperative that the illuminated device (dot or reticle) be adjustable for intensity.
The reason I suggest a DOT only (and believe me...I've tried all sorts of illuminated reticles) is that your eye will naturally be drawn to it and it is very quick to find superimposed on your target.
Illuminated crosshairs, subtensions, circles and various other reticles simply make for a sight picture that is too 'busy' (for hunting purposes).
They 'compete' for the focal attention needed to see BOTH your target and your point of aim. Not to mention...that many of them (even on a low setting) tend to wash out your target.
My personal favorite is a German #4 with illuminated dot (second focal plane), but anything similar will serve you well. Keep the intensity near the lower end (at dusk). It can be higher when light conditions are better.
A good point you make (either lost on...or not experienced by some), is the fact that it gets MUCH darker in tall timber than out in the open LONG before legal shooting time has ended.
Where I hunt (Deep East Texas, Pineywoods), I deal with this every time I go hunting, so I am familiar with your dilemma.
When picking a scope....I would recommend you find something with only an illuminated dot (not the entire reticle). Also, it is imperative that the illuminated device (dot or reticle) be adjustable for intensity.
The reason I suggest a DOT only (and believe me...I've tried all sorts of illuminated reticles) is that your eye will naturally be drawn to it and it is very quick to find superimposed on your target.
Illuminated crosshairs, subtensions, circles and various other reticles simply make for a sight picture that is too 'busy' (for hunting purposes).
They 'compete' for the focal attention needed to see BOTH your target and your point of aim. Not to mention...that many of them (even on a low setting) tend to wash out your target.
My personal favorite is a German #4 with illuminated dot (second focal plane), but anything similar will serve you well. Keep the intensity near the lower end (at dusk). It can be higher when light conditions are better.
Flintknapper
Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The VXR would be one such scope, which has good glass and a simple Illuminated dot reticle. There are other manufacturers with similar offerings.
I prefer a reticle (for low light use) that incorporates heavy duplex posts. They are much easier to see than finer crosshairs.
In fact, even in full light conditions…you can experience shadows sufficient to hinder your ability to accurately place crosshairs on a target.
In the pic below (looking out into my back pasture), you can see the lower ‘coarse’ post of the duplex easily enough (where it crosses the shadow). But look at the top (fine post) in the shadows of the pine thicket beyond. Easily lost…or diminished, no?
In this next pic (see below), it is not yet dusk…but soon will be. The very last rays of sun can be seen on the trees and the terrain to the right of the scope.
With good glass (light gathering /transmitting capability) this view of the target area (or an animal) would easily be handled by any reticle, right?
Well…yes, IF the target were in the open (food plot in this case). But let’s move that target up a little bit from the center dot and into the timber behind it (that would be 100 yds. at 4.5 power in this case).
Suddenly you can see how coarser crosshairs and an illuminated dot would benefit you.
Lastly, this pic (although set up for hog hunting with an LED light) illustrates how much darker it can be in the ‘woods’ than out in the open while there is still legal shooting time.
Please note the available light in the skyline compared to the view of this old logging road. It is clear that a scope with an illuminated reticle is going to be an asset for the next 10 minutes.
I know there are those who will argue the value of the effort and expense to get that ‘last ten minutes’ of hunting time, but I can tell you from 45 years of Deer hunting experience, older/wiser bucks will often hang back in the brush/timber and wait until dark before entering more open areas or food plots.
Upgrading your equipment might allow you to make that ‘ethical’ shot we all strive for.
The OP (Bob) should be commended for NOT taking a shot he was not comfortable with, good job Sir!
Flint.
The VXR would be one such scope, which has good glass and a simple Illuminated dot reticle. There are other manufacturers with similar offerings.
I prefer a reticle (for low light use) that incorporates heavy duplex posts. They are much easier to see than finer crosshairs.
In fact, even in full light conditions…you can experience shadows sufficient to hinder your ability to accurately place crosshairs on a target.
In the pic below (looking out into my back pasture), you can see the lower ‘coarse’ post of the duplex easily enough (where it crosses the shadow). But look at the top (fine post) in the shadows of the pine thicket beyond. Easily lost…or diminished, no?
In this next pic (see below), it is not yet dusk…but soon will be. The very last rays of sun can be seen on the trees and the terrain to the right of the scope.
With good glass (light gathering /transmitting capability) this view of the target area (or an animal) would easily be handled by any reticle, right?
Well…yes, IF the target were in the open (food plot in this case). But let’s move that target up a little bit from the center dot and into the timber behind it (that would be 100 yds. at 4.5 power in this case).
Suddenly you can see how coarser crosshairs and an illuminated dot would benefit you.
Lastly, this pic (although set up for hog hunting with an LED light) illustrates how much darker it can be in the ‘woods’ than out in the open while there is still legal shooting time.
Please note the available light in the skyline compared to the view of this old logging road. It is clear that a scope with an illuminated reticle is going to be an asset for the next 10 minutes.
I know there are those who will argue the value of the effort and expense to get that ‘last ten minutes’ of hunting time, but I can tell you from 45 years of Deer hunting experience, older/wiser bucks will often hang back in the brush/timber and wait until dark before entering more open areas or food plots.
Upgrading your equipment might allow you to make that ‘ethical’ shot we all strive for.
The OP (Bob) should be commended for NOT taking a shot he was not comfortable with, good job Sir!
Flint.
- Status
Similar threads
