Two part AK question

[Babarsac]

I recently got a very nice SAR-1 imported by Century and took it to the range today. It jumps a lot more then my Yugo which has the big ole muzzle brake so I want to go ahead and get one for the AK. I don't think the barrel is threaded (not entirely sure) so I was wondering if there is any kind of muzzle brake that would still fit?

My other question is how would I tell if I need a single hook or double hook trigger to replace the original on my AK?

 

[elmerfudd]

The ideal solution is to thread the barrel, but there are other ways it can be done too. Soldering is an easy way to semi-permanently attach a brake and it can be done with just a blow torch. Set screw brakes can also be used, but if you want them to stay put you need to drill dimples into your barrel for the screws to set into and use locktite on the screws.

 

[dfariswheel]

The simplest option is the pin-on AK-74 brake as sold many places:
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AKS015-3516-2714.html

For this one, you punch out the front sight support pin, press the brake on the muzzle, and install a longer pin to retain it.
These work surprisingly well.

The best option is thread the muzzle.
To do this, remove the muzzle nut and check the muzzle.
If it's already threaded, you can install most any brake.
If it's smooth, you can thread the muzzle yourself and install any left-hand muzzle attachment.

To thread the muzzle, RENT a threading kit here:
http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/showthread.php?t=317699&highlight=threading+kit
The price is $23.00. You send ATAK the money, he sends you a threading kit that includes a special guide that prevents crooked threads, and a set of instructions on how to do it.
After you're through, you return the kit.
It's EASY to thread an AK, and this is the best way to go.

To determine whether you need a single or double hook trigger assembly, look on the bottom of your receiver right in front of the trigger.
There will be a square hole in the receiver from which the trigger protrudes.
There will be either one or two short slots facing forward from that square trigger hole.
If you see 2 slots, you can use a double hook trigger.
One slot, you can use only a single hook.

 

[dstorm1911]

Your Yugo does not have a brake, thats a grenade launcher it has no braking effect at all what your Yugo does have is more weight, alot more weight than the SAR does this added weight tames down the recoil.

Options have already been covered regarding how to attach a brake, the only ones however that actually have any actual effect are the AK74 style brakes, now this brake actually tends to pull the muzzle forward slightly so really should be threaded, another option not mentioned is to install an AK74 front sight post it will have the 24 mm threads already made onto the sight block itself so no need to thread your barrel and several companies sell a 7.62 cal version of the AK74 brake that will thread right onto that front sight post mount, unlike the 14/1 threaded versions made for the AKs with threaded barrels the 24 mm version actually functions just like the 5.45 version in that it utilizes an expansion chamber etc... I've gotten so that I put the 74 style brakes on any AK I hand to a smaller or first time shooter especially if it has a wire side folder on it......

As far as the FCG, your SAR is cut for a single hook, ya can easily add the other cut with a dremel cutoff wheen but make it shorter than the already existing cut, this will allow it to be used like an over travel stop to fine tune the trigger.

 

[nalioth]

Your Yugo does not have a brake, thats a grenade launcher it has no braking effect at all what your Yugo does have is more weight, alot more weight than the SAR does this added weight tames down the recoil

.... and that's why everybody LOOOOVES shooting the Yugo AKs.

 

[W.E.G.]

Some AK's just unlock funny, and kick the bejeezus out of the shooter.

I never thought this would be so, until we built a Hungarian kit. That thing is just nasty the way it kicks. I have no idea why. Its heavier than my SAR-1, but feels like it kicks twice as hard. I think its possessed.

 

[Babarsac]

Now I'm thinking that I should get one of these handgaurds and a rubber buttpad to make the stock a bit longer, and that should make it a bit more comfortable to fire.

 

[Navy87Guy]

Options have already been covered regarding how to attach a brake, the only ones however that actually have any actual effect are the AK74 style brakes,...

If you want a compensator that really makes a difference, try the JTAC-47 from Primary Weapons (formerly AK Concepts). They are pricey, but the difference between it and a slant brake or AK-74 is remarkable. I have all three and the JTAC was well worth the money.

Jim

 

[grimjaw]

try the JTAC-47 from Primary Weapons

I second this recommendation. It's a well made brake and seems to work just as effectively as the standard AK74 brake. I just tried mine out for the first time yesterday and it was money well spent (plus, it's a US part).

jm

 

[MudPuppy]

There's a "flex" stock out there that is supposed to be a recoil reducer--I haven't used it and can't find a link right now.

I've thought about using an M4 style with the release locked open and a stiff, reallllly stiff spring in the tube.

 

[aloharover]

Barbarsac,
if you really want a Romy pistol grip lower hand guard let me know. 5$ to cover shipping and I will send you one. So far everyone is replacing those on builds and I have a small pile.

Mudpuppy,
I am not sure I see how having a buffer spring in the tube will do anything for the recoil. Are you thinking about making a large heavy insert to replace the buffer and it would work like a recoil reducer?

Pete

 

[nalioth]

I've thought about using an M4 style with the release locked open and a stiff, reallllly stiff spring in the tube.

Mudpuppy,
I am not sure I see how having a buffer spring in the tube will do anything for the recoil. Are you thinking about making a large heavy insert to replace the buffer and it would work like a recoil reducer?

That spring and buffer have absolutely nothing to do when used on an AK. The stock is attached to a solid rear trunnion in the AK, and no operating parts of the AK touch the buffer or spring.

 

[benEzra]

I think he was envisioning a homemade recoil buffer made from an M4 stock with no latch, and a really big spring rigged up to allow the stock to shorten under recoil.

I think a regular recoil pad (Limbsaver, etc.) would be a lot more practical. A gunsmith could probably fit one nicely to the original stock.

Having said that, what recoil a SAR-1 does have is not bad compared to more powerful rifles. The skinny buttplate makes it seem a little worse, but it's a relatively mild shooting rifle.

Here's mine:

 

[dstorm1911]

WEG Some AK's just unlock funny, and kick the bejeezus out of the shooter.

I never thought this would be so, until we built a Hungarian kit. That thing is just nasty the way it kicks. I have no idea why. Its heavier than my SAR-1, but feels like it kicks twice as hard. I think its possessed."



Did ya'll check the headspace on that rifle? excessive headspace will frequently result in harder than normal recoil, your partially correct some "unlock" differently if the headspace is not correct, if everything is in spec they all function the same, also ya might wanna replace the recoil spring as the ones in kits are frequently defective. I would DEFFINETLY get the headspace checks as if its excessive to the point of exagerated recoil its also very close to going KABOOM,

As far as M4 stocks I frequently install mercury filled buffers inside of em when used on an AK, ya can also put them inside the cleaning kit hole in a fixed stock......... they are very effective especially if combined with an AK74 brake....

 

[aloharover]

Yes, I realise the AK has a different recoil system.
I was asking if the poster was attempting to make his own recoil reducer, and was wondering if it worked.

If benEzra is correct, I can see that being a bad idea.