can anyone conform that a tyler t grip 3r will fit a j frame? i know that a number 1 is the right one for it but i saw a picture that said it had a 3r on and it looked like it fit better going all the way to the bottom of the grip instead of stopping a quarter inch before the end..also does anyone have any j frame tyler t grips pictures...thank you for your help
Tyler t grip question
- Thread starter gunnar187
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David E
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indiandave
Member
Buy one and try it. If it doesn't fit you have an excuse to buy a gun that it does fit.
yes, that is how a 3r will look on a J, but it will force your hand lower, and your last finger off the grip. It will also not fit the trigger arch and bang there, wearing both the finish and leading to the grip failing (separating from the copper retaining clip). If you do buy the gun, just go to the classifieds and trade it for the right one or sell it on Ebay and buy the correct one.
pbearperry
Member
Does anyone else here think Tyler T Grips are a bit overpriced besides me?
rainbowbob
Member
I ordered a K-frame T-Grip for my J-frame for the same reason the OP suggested - I thought it looked better going down to the bottom of the front strap.
I wasn't aware of this, Oro. I haven't noticed this happening - but I've only used it for about a year. I recently swapped it onto my new K-frame (M15) just to try it out. Actually, I'm not sure the K-frame even needs a T-grip, as it feels and shoots pretty good without it (I haven't had a chance to try it yet with the T-grip).
The J-frame absolutely REQUIRES a T-grip in my opinion, and I may go ahead and order the correct size for it - and leave the other one on the K-frame.
Any opinions about whether the K-frame even needs a T-grip? I guess that's as good an excuse as any to get out to the range and try it out.
I wasn't aware of this, Oro. I haven't noticed this happening - but I've only used it for about a year. I recently swapped it onto my new K-frame (M15) just to try it out. Actually, I'm not sure the K-frame even needs a T-grip, as it feels and shoots pretty good without it (I haven't had a chance to try it yet with the T-grip).
The J-frame absolutely REQUIRES a T-grip in my opinion, and I may go ahead and order the correct size for it - and leave the other one on the K-frame.
Any opinions about whether the K-frame even needs a T-grip? I guess that's as good an excuse as any to get out to the range and try it out.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No more so then paying over $1,250 bucks for a new S&W Classic revolver or 1911 pistol that used to cost $125 40 years ago.
By that measure, T-Grips only cost $2.50, same as they did back then!
Tyler T-Grips are almost hand-made & finished, by a mom & pop operation, and it's simply a matter of supply & demand.
Everyone with a revolver certainly doesn't want one or buy one.
If he was able to make them in a factory in China & sell them like pop-corn at Walmart, they would be much cheaper.
rc
Question: Any opinions about whether the K-frame even needs a T-grip?
MY answer: It's all a matter of filling the space above the middle finger of the firing hand behind the trigger guard.
MOST shooters will do about as well DOUBLE-ACTION with the T-Grip combined with the old standard K-frame wooden stocks as they can with custom grips.
It's a non-issue one way or the other, however, if you're firing single-action.
MY answer: It's all a matter of filling the space above the middle finger of the firing hand behind the trigger guard.
MOST shooters will do about as well DOUBLE-ACTION with the T-Grip combined with the old standard K-frame wooden stocks as they can with custom grips.
It's a non-issue one way or the other, however, if you're firing single-action.
rainbowbob
Member
I agree wholeheartedly with rcmodel's reply.
Our obsession with saving a buck is what sent most of our manufacturing jobs overseas in the first place. Now where are we? We should support the family businesses in this country - even if it costs a little more. For that matter, a T-grip costs only a few dollars more than a Bantam Hogue - and looks and feels 100% better in my opinion. Buy American!
OK...rant over. Back to T-grip questions.
I just removed the T-grip from my K-frame (that I originally purchased for my J-frame - see previous post). It is a "3R". I'm now pretty much convinced that I should order the right size for my J-frame, but will there be a problem using the 3R on my square-butt K-frame? Do I need to order two new T-grips and save the 3R in case I ever own a round-butt K-frame?
Eightball
Member
They're not overpriced for what you get--the best made product of the type on the US market, made by a family in the US, with good QC and customer service.
What more could you want? A handwritten note with each one? You know they're built well--how many OLD ones do you see hanging on in front of grips that've been there for decades?
What more could you want? A handwritten note with each one? You know they're built well--how many OLD ones do you see hanging on in front of grips that've been there for decades?
No, they are not overpriced. Now those rubber molded grips selling for just about as much as Tyler's chunk of high polished aluminum? Well, the rubbers are overpriced.
The Tylers truly make the shooting of the gun so much more enjoyable AND accurate, since they get your hand in the best position, grip wise, so the gun will remain in the hand properly when firing fast, double action gun matches (and fast in self defense).
Frankly, the stags and the Tyler feel BETTER on this Model 37 Airweight, with stout ammunition, than my pair of Uncle Mike's "rubbers."
I'm slowly getting Tylers on all my revolvers. Nice, American hand-crafted and polished quality.
T.
The Tylers truly make the shooting of the gun so much more enjoyable AND accurate, since they get your hand in the best position, grip wise, so the gun will remain in the hand properly when firing fast, double action gun matches (and fast in self defense).
Frankly, the stags and the Tyler feel BETTER on this Model 37 Airweight, with stout ammunition, than my pair of Uncle Mike's "rubbers."
I'm slowly getting Tylers on all my revolvers. Nice, American hand-crafted and polished quality.
T.
trickyrick
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1KPerDay
Member
Dang those are pretty, SWfan. I may have to get some stags for my 37.
rainbowbob
Member
Vonderek: Can you elaborate, please?
Vonderek
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Sure. I ordered one for a K-Frame. It arrived and was nicely finished however after installing it there was a sizeable gap between the bottom of the T-Grip and the frame of the gun. I contacted the company and sent the T-Grip back for another. Over the course of the next couple of months or so it was difficult to communicate with them...phone calls and emails went unanswered. A couple of times I was told that mine was ready and would ship immediately and then another week or so would go by and it became obvious that I was being given the runaround. Finally they sent me a replacement. This one was roughly finished and fit as poorly as the first. I was worn out from the experience and just accepted what I had. I liked the old-school look of them before I ordered but the now "the thrill is gone". Yeah, I know they're a small outfit, etc etc but so am I and I don't have the luxury to keep my customers on ice indefinitely and ignore emails and phone calls. If I ran my business that way I wouldn't last long.
Luckily, there are a couple of guys who stock Tylers normally. They pay the Tyler folks to make 'em a bunch and, unlike the Tyler company, they then stockpile enough to generally fill customer demand.
I don't like to wait . . . and I sure don't like to give somebody my money and then wait a couple of months on such a small of a priced item to make.
Here are two people who can help folks TODAY with Tyler grips. I've bought from both and they are great do deal with:
1. Bob Mickowski in Rhode Island: [email protected] (he sells in the classified of the S-Wforum under the name "superman" . . . SUPER FAST TOO and great communications!
2. D&J Gun Repair in Virginia. This is a "brick and mortar" business of long standing. Also excellent and reliable to deal with. Here's their website:
http://www.shop.dandjgunrepair.com/main.sc
Hope this helps!
T.
BTW, I recommend the "brushed aluminum" on the modern, bead-blasted S&W stainless revolvers, bright aluminum on the nickle-plated guns, gloss black on the bright blued guns, and flat black on the satin black guns. This from personal experience. The big N frame I pictured above once had a polished aluminum Tyler and it didn't look as good as the gloss black.
I don't like to wait . . . and I sure don't like to give somebody my money and then wait a couple of months on such a small of a priced item to make.
Here are two people who can help folks TODAY with Tyler grips. I've bought from both and they are great do deal with:
1. Bob Mickowski in Rhode Island: [email protected] (he sells in the classified of the S-Wforum under the name "superman" . . . SUPER FAST TOO and great communications!
2. D&J Gun Repair in Virginia. This is a "brick and mortar" business of long standing. Also excellent and reliable to deal with. Here's their website:
http://www.shop.dandjgunrepair.com/main.sc
Hope this helps!
T.
BTW, I recommend the "brushed aluminum" on the modern, bead-blasted S&W stainless revolvers, bright aluminum on the nickle-plated guns, gloss black on the bright blued guns, and flat black on the satin black guns. This from personal experience. The big N frame I pictured above once had a polished aluminum Tyler and it didn't look as good as the gloss black.
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