Uberti Cattleman disassembly problem

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npconnor

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I'm having difficulty removing the cylinder from my Uberti Cattleman. I try to disassemble just like my Colt SAA: half cock and push in the base pin latch, it moves... but I can't pull out the base pin/rod from the cylinder.

What gives? Is there another way to force it out?
 
It's probably peened and flanged on the back side of the latch push pin. I had that happen with a Cimarron Model P. I chucked it up in a lathe and dressed it with a smooth mill file just to get the gun up and runnin' again...but I ordered a Belt Mountain base pin 2 days later.
 
How'd you get it out to even shave it down? The base pin is nowhere even close to budging. It's driving me nuts and I'm running out of finger nails for use! :banghead:
 
Remove the ejector tube assembly. Then remove the cylinder pin latch assembly (You will need a screwdriver bit ground with a notch in the middle to fit one side). At this point you can get a better grip on the cylinder base pin.

If all this fails, disassemble the frame assembly and remove the hammer. You can then get at the base pin from the back, and drive it forward with a punch. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THE LATCH ASSEMBLY AT THE FRONT OF THE FRAME HAS BEEN REVOVED FIRST!

Carefully examine both the latch assembly and base pin, and remove any burrs. Be sure you can slide the base pin back and forth in the frame without udue resistance. Also be sure the pin is not binding in the cylinder bushing.

Then reassemble the revolver.

Last but not least, a Belt Mountain base pin is a capital idea. They can be obtained here (www.brownells.com) and minor fitting may be necessary.
 
Before you try all that, get some penetrating oil and squirt some in the back of the base pin under the hammer, in the front near the latch, and around the cylinder bushing, front & back.

Let it soak in a day and try it again before you start taking it apart or beating on it.

rc
 
My Uberti Cattleman has two notches in the rod. One can push the rod further in to the second notch, in theory a 'safety' which prevents the hammer from hitting the primer.

So, you may have to hit the release the base pin latch a second time.
 
A base pin removal tool can be purchased at small cost from Brownell's. It looks like a mini pry bar which in fact it is. I have several single actions with tight base pins, and I shoot a lot of black powder which compounds the problem. I couldn't get along without this little tool.
 
You have received some excellent advice. I would suggest first removing the crosspin completely. Just in case something is keeping it from disengaging.

If that doesn't work, then penetrating oil, it could be rusted in place.

If that doesn't work, then remove the ejector to get a better purchase on the head.

If that doesn't work, then disassembling the sixgun, removing the grip frame halves, then the hammer, to access the rear of the basepin. Carefully tap it out with a punch.

If you get the Belt Mt. basepin, I would strongly suggest the #5 style. Not only does it look great but it's much easier to grasp.
 
Okay, so I went and did Old Fuff and CraigC instruction because I was a little irritated, after disassembly I used a screw driver to push the pin from behind (just below the hammer/firing pin) and it came right out.
(Reassembly was a little tricky without any diagram or videos but I got it).

Here are some pictures of the base pin:

IMG_1216.gif

IMG_1217.gif

There aren't any burs, but I did manage to scratch some blueing off from a couple days ago trying to pull it out.

Any suggestions on what to do since it seems smooth? Just clean it up and hope it doesn't get stuck again?

It was a good learning experience and I'm sure I'll only get faster disassembling and reassembling it but I'd rather it work the way it's supposed to.

//Edit 10:46:
I'll look into the Belt Mountain base pin but as mentioned above, Brownell's is out of stock. Anything I can do in the meantime?
 
Last edited:
Spin in a drill with steel wool. Good lube. Check push pin and polish it also. Be sure to polish the groove in the base pin. Put a 22lr brush on your cleaning rod. Spin it through the receiver opening a couple of times. Spin only few times through center of cylinder. Good lube. Put it back.
 
Since it was a tight fit to begin with & the head's buggered up now, I'd go with a BM replacement if it were mine.

I had the same problem with a USFA Rodeo some years back, several things were out of spec & my gunsmith ended up fabricating a new pin from scratch.
Nothing else would fit properly & there was no point staying with the original pin.

Denis
 
I'd oil it real good, clean and oil the holes in the frame as well. Then, without the cylinder in place, see how tightly it fits in the frame. If there is much resistance at all, I'd heed Red Cent's advice to chuck it in a drill, only I'd use 400grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Dampen it with water or oil. Give it a good even polish all along its length and see if you can improve its fit. Make it work for now but I'd see about getting a Belt Mt. pin ASAP. Which may require the same course of action to get it fitted.
 
Thanks for the ideas RedCent, DPris, etc... I'll probably do just that. I'm a university student so I don't have all my tools/gear at my apartment but I'll go back home this weekend and perform the above.

Once I get this in working order I may call on y'all again. I'm having issues with a Mauser C96 not dropping the hammer after squeezing the trigger.
 
Don't forget to do the hole in the cylinder also. That opening in a lot longer and can bind also.Clean and lube, see if the pin drags whit pushed thru the cylinder. You shouldn't need any tools to remove the pin and cylinder
 
Little update:

Cleaned the pin with some steel wool and ran a brush + cloth thingy through the holes where the base pin goes in. Seems fine now, fairly easy and smooth disassembly.

I forgot this SAA had another problem and it reoccurred when I took it out on my range. After loading the 3rd or 4th cartridge into the cylinder, it becomes terribly difficult to turn the cylinder to even get to the 5th or 6th opening. I've had it lock up on me with rounds in the cylinder and had great difficulty getting it out before. Fortunately I can actually disassemble it now so emptying the cylinder was easy.

It's as if the brass rim is too fat so it all gets gummed up.

Ideas on why this occurs and how to fix it? I'm about to trade this in since I already have a 1st and 3rd Gen Colt SAA so what's the point of a copy that can't even function! :cuss:
 
What caliber is it in?

For example, I have one in caliber 38, rated for .357 magnum. If I shoot alot of .38 specials, there is build up in the cylinder where the casing ends. That can interfer with loading the longer cased .357.
 
re: difficult to turn after loading.

I have an Hombre in .45 Colt and have that problem some times. There is so little clearance that if you have a high primer or a dirty chamber or some dirt at the rear (loading-side) of the cylinder that prevents a cartridge from seating fully, the base of the cartridge rubs against the recoil shield and it binds up.

Q
 
If soaking in Kroil and all the other tricks don't work, here is a base pin removral method I have used with good success on SAA types as well a zillion solid frame revolvers.

First remove anything that is in the way (like an ejector rod, base pin catch), then with copper jaws in the vise, use the vise to grip the base pin. Then whack the muzzle with a leather or wood mallet. If that doesn't do it, and you can't get at the back, it is time to consider really drastic methods involving drills.

Jim
 
Thanks for the replies. It's chambered in .45 Long Colt - I probably should have mentioned that in the OP.

Quoheleth said:
re: difficult to turn after loading.

I have an Hombre in .45 Colt and have that problem some times. There is so little clearance that if you have a high primer or a dirty chamber or some dirt at the rear (loading-side) of the cylinder that prevents a cartridge from seating fully, the base of the cartridge rubs against the recoil shield and it binds up.

Q
Click to expand...

I'd agree with this as a likely source... but Ubertis have no recoil shield.
 
I'd agree with this as a likely source... but Ubertis have no recoil shield.
Click to expand...

Uhhhh...Yeah they do.

Just for giggles, place it on half-cock and spin the cylinder slowly while watching at the rear for any runout. The cylinder will appear to wobble a little, closing the gap near the top. If the base pin hole through the frame or in the cylinder is cattywampus...it'll cause that binding.

If it runs true, and the base pin itself isn't bent...the only other possibility is the headspace being a little on the short side.
 
Or is something just going over my head?
Click to expand...

The recoil shield is the just the face of the back of the frame.
(where the firing pin hole is - to allow it to hit the primer.)
 

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  • Recoil shield.jpg
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If you are shooting reloads check for high primers. If not primers, get a feeler gauge and check for consistent clearance rather than eyeballing it.
The 3rd and 4th and the 5th and 6th has got to be headspace, primers, or cylinder is off.
 
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