Udderly Smooth - Ingredients safe for reloading?

[TexasShooter59]

I have been looking for an alternative case lube that works for my process. Let me say up front that I use wet tumbling with SS pins. I don't do a second tumble and do not have vibratory stuff to do it anyway. Nor do I want to!

This stuff seems to work well with my limited amount of testing, only 15 cases so far. It goes on like Imperial or Bag Balm, but is not nearly as thick. It is slick enough that a case could slip out of your hands if you don't hang on to it! You do have to make sure you put enough on, though, as I can tell you could get a stuck case easily if you don't watch what you are doing.

The best part is that it wipes off easily and thoroughly, and leaves the case looking clean.

My question: I have posted a photo of the ingredients. Is there anything in this that will harm brass or corrode the steel dies and shell holders?

Thanks in advance!

 

[rsrocket1]

The first ingredient: water
Last I heard, water causes rust

You will be fine so long as you wipe your cases down after sizing and wipe down your dies after a session.

I've used Bag Balm which is essentially Lanolin in a petroleum gel. Works great, does not flow or drip and is actually good for your hands. STP oil treatment is another good lube but sometimes too slippery and causes me to sometimes fumble the cases as they slip out of my grip.

 

[gamestalker]

Aren't some of the common case lubes water based, like Lee Dry case lube (tooth paste tube), and Imperial, I'm pretty sure they are? So I see no real problem with the water, as long as the product is dry when it goes into the die. I wouldn't want to expose my die to water though, so only if this product is allowed to dry before resizing with it.

As for the ingredients in that "Utterly Smooth", I have absolutely no idea what most of them are.

If I were using a product that is easy to stick a case with "if your not careful". Why use something that unpredictable that you could stick a case with, seems for what ever small advantage there may be, is mute, thus the higher risk of sticking a case.

GS

 

[Taroman]

I have used Udderly Smooth as a case lube for years.
Nothing has ever rusted, but then again, I don't load steel cases.
Keeps my hands nice, too.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Your ingredients:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid. Source is animal or vegetable. In a product not meant for human consumption usually made from beef tallow (fat).

Propylene glycol is a polymer, a chemical that has long fibers that encourage other chemicals to bond.

Peg-2 Stearate is an emulsifier, makes things slick and causes molecules to disperse, like adding soap to oily water.

Isopropyl myristate is a solvent that allows products to be absorbed through the skin.

Dimethicone is a silicone based oil.

Mineral oil is a petroleum based lubricant.

Lanolin oil – Oil from the skin of wool-bearing animals.

Triethanolamine is another surfactant. It is a strong base.

Allantoin is a uric acid that moisturizes the skin.

Methylparaben is a preservative.

Fragrance is a chemical that makes things smell. Sometimes good, sometimes bad.

Polypropylparaben is a preservative.


The most hazardous ingredient for your dies and brass is the water.

Professor Ludwig Von Drake responding to your scientific questions direct from the Holiday Inn Express at Vienna, Austria.

 

[Ex]

Here is the MSDS sheet for Udderly Smooth. Doesn't have anything that appears harmful to brass or guns, but there are some toxicity issues.

http://www.wardrobesupplies.com/spree/products/7795/safety_sheets/Udder%20Cream.pdf?1345065235

 

[TexasShooter59]

Thanks for all the responses, and to yours particularly "Professor Von Drake"!

 

[LiveLife]

While looking to use Bag Balm as case lube, I came across Udderly Smooth.

It's not as greasy and works on par with Lee lube, IMO. What I like about Udderly Smooth is that it wipes off clean with a paper towel (like Lee lube) and also keeps my hands soft. For really heavy duty resizing like military .308 cases, I prefer to use something more slippery.

I have noticed build up of residue on my dies and stuck a .308 case once. If you clean your dies and oil before each resizing session (not like lazy me), you should be fine. I have not noticed any rusting from using Udderly Smooth.

 

[Rule3]

It will not hurt you brass at all. If it is dry it will not hurt you dies.

Water will not hurt brass.

Why bother, get some wire pulling lube at Homer Depot which is essentially what LEE lube is.

 

[rodregier]

Or you could get pure lanolin like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Home-Health-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B0014AWF0S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1425919791&sr=8-10&keywords=lanolin

I use lanolin dissolved in 99% isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) as a case spray lube.
Very similar to Dillon's formulation. Most drug stores carry the 99% stuff for a good price.

The trick is to use a double boiler removed from heat source to heat up the alcohol
so the lanolin will dissolve. Around 1 part lanolin to 7 parts alcohol.

The alcohol in the spray lube evaporates, leaving behind a nice layer of lanolin as the case lube.

 

[mdi]

Lots of good ideas. Yep, I have some Udderly Smooth cream around my toolbox/bench (as an HD mechanic I needed something to keep my hands from cracking/drying out). I tried it a few times and it worked well, but I had already been using Mink Oil Boot Dressing cream so I just stuck with the dressing. Seems to work a little better than U.S. cream, but that could be just in my head...