Hey folks. Looking and interested in getting a ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning small parts on my guns, and such. Can you please chime in with your pro's and con's... what you use for cleaner solution, if you use one and why, if you don't use one and why.. I'm interested to hear all sides because i'm kinda on the fence.. Happy weekend and keep your powder dry... peace...
Ultrasonic Cleaners
- Thread starter Henry45
- Start date
- Status
Ente Leader
Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2013
- Messages
- 12
I have a small one that will hold about 50 cases depending on pistol size. I have found the cheap ones work just as good as expensive ones. Some guys use commercial chemicals some home grown, I use home stuff. The biggest factor is how many cases you try to clean and the TEMPERATURE of the mix. I use water, lemon juice, vinegar heated to 145 deg F. Works great for me I don't intend to get in a contest with others that have better concoctions not as good as mine. In fact some times I use it with out the sonic cleaner. But I'm not anal.
baseball2013
Member
I'm using a Lyman Turbo Sonic 2500. My cases come out pretty clean if the machine isn't loaded close to max capacity. Most of the primer pockets come out clean but not all.
I have also used it to clean barrels and recoil spring assemblies. A patch still needs to be run through the barrel to make sure it is squeaky clean.
The chemicals I use are Lyman case cleaner and the gun part cleaner.
I have also used it to clean barrels and recoil spring assemblies. A patch still needs to be run through the barrel to make sure it is squeaky clean.
The chemicals I use are Lyman case cleaner and the gun part cleaner.
Gummi Bear
Member
I have a HF ultrasonic.
It does an "OK" job. I am not disappointed in it, but I wasn't expecting parts to look new, just clean-er than when I put them in.
I have tried a few commercial juices, and made my own using various household ingredients (water, salt, vinegar, Simple Green, dish soap, LemiShine, etc) with varying results. There are a boatload of videos on YouTube with different recipes to try.
The HF unit that I have looks to be the same one that Lyman sells.
For brass, and really stubborn stuff, it goes in the FART. Those stainless pins get every nook and cranny.
It does an "OK" job. I am not disappointed in it, but I wasn't expecting parts to look new, just clean-er than when I put them in.
I have tried a few commercial juices, and made my own using various household ingredients (water, salt, vinegar, Simple Green, dish soap, LemiShine, etc) with varying results. There are a boatload of videos on YouTube with different recipes to try.
The HF unit that I have looks to be the same one that Lyman sells.
For brass, and really stubborn stuff, it goes in the FART. Those stainless pins get every nook and cranny.
Rex B
Member
I use the HF unit to clean guns as of six months ago. My pistols have never been so clean so easily. Squeaky clean in 5 minutes.
I use the Lyman Turbosonic concentrated cleaner, followed by a distiller water rinse, then a compressed air dry. Lastly I lube them with the Lyman's turbo lube, which also displaces any remaining water. I bought a 2nd machine so I can keep cleaner in one and lube in the other.
Oh yeah, wife cleans her jewelry too. Love it!
I use the Lyman Turbosonic concentrated cleaner, followed by a distiller water rinse, then a compressed air dry. Lastly I lube them with the Lyman's turbo lube, which also displaces any remaining water. I bought a 2nd machine so I can keep cleaner in one and lube in the other.
Oh yeah, wife cleans her jewelry too. Love it!
Crashbox
Member
... (oops)
Blue68f100
Member
US are great for getting parts clean that have limited access. I use mine to clean gun parts/assemblies that I do not want or can not fully disassemble. A good example of this is a BHP slide. I normally use it with the #9 or Red's cleaner. These are just a few items I've used mine for. It also good for cleaning jewelery using a water base cleaner. For the most part I fill the unit with water and set the small parts in a jar with the appropriate cleaner. Requires less cleaning agent this way. My US units holds almost 2 gal of cleaning fluids.
ChasMack
Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2011
- Messages
- 218
I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I got from Harbor Freight Tools for a little over $50.00, much less than the Hornady cleaner. It's a jewelry cleaner but the same thing. Same size as the Hornady cleaner. I use Hornady cleaning solution, but want to make my own concoction. It cleans my brass very well I think, much better than the walnut media did with my other brass cleaner. My only complaint is that I wish I could do more brass in one sitting.
I put the bolt from my Mosin PU Sniper (it had powder all over it - long story) in the HF cleaner a while back and it turned it from shiny silver to a dirty looking gray. I have not been able to get the gray color off it yet. Not sure what happened to it but it ruined it as far as I am concerned.
What did you use for your cleaning solution?
Another gunsmith buddy of mine told me that he uses Simple Green "Purple". HD cleaner that is non corrosive and safe for all metals, unlike the "green" Simple Green. He's used it for a while and never had a problem on any kind of metal, duracoat or cerakote. I might try that.. I was thinking about just using Dawn and distilled water.
Another gunsmith buddy of mine told me that he uses Simple Green "Purple". HD cleaner that is non corrosive and safe for all metals, unlike the "green" Simple Green. He's used it for a while and never had a problem on any kind of metal, duracoat or cerakote. I might try that.. I was thinking about just using Dawn and distilled water.
Rex B
Member
I recommend the Lyman concentrate. A very small amount in distilled water works spectacularly well. A quart should last years. And you know it's safe for guns and cases.
I have a larger one that I can put a pistol in. Remove the grips and put it in or a sligh disassenble and put the parts in. I use "Eds Red" and heat it to 110 degrees. It cleans way better than I ever could esp around the forcing cone on revolvers. Really cleans the bolt carrier on AR15 or AR10.
Rex B
Member
When you clean a revolver, do you pull the sideplate? I have a few older S&Ws that I have not yet cleaned ultrasonically.
Joe,
Comment on use of Ed's Red. I tried using mineral spirits in an US and never got it to work well. Apparently the issue is the cavitation does not happen with thicker fluids. Using water based solution worked well.
Also, I use Ed's Red on some things and have it in a small parts washer (less the Acetone). It works well in that mode.
Caution (without technical basis) is the flash point even at 110F may be of some concern with Ed's Red (especially with Acetone included). Just thinking about the vapors around the US and the on/off switch arc that may happen on turn off (timer stop)....
OP, I have a commercial Crest (big $) that I can put a 18" 'thing' into. I use the Brownells cleaner. I do brass in a tumbler with corn cob. I use SS pins on pulled HP surplus bullets. US is only used for some suppressors and complex assemblies that have no optical elements (i.e. no tritium sights/IR/Visible lasers). Works well in that somewhat limited role.
Another note just for completeness is I also have a large media blast chamber in the garage (~50psi). I use walnut shell media for doing suppressors (aluminum baffles) and it works great (zero finish/metal removal).
Rambling list of things I actually use and results obtained. US is NOT a universal solution (no pun intended), just one process for some things.
Comment on use of Ed's Red. I tried using mineral spirits in an US and never got it to work well. Apparently the issue is the cavitation does not happen with thicker fluids. Using water based solution worked well.
Also, I use Ed's Red on some things and have it in a small parts washer (less the Acetone). It works well in that mode.
Caution (without technical basis) is the flash point even at 110F may be of some concern with Ed's Red (especially with Acetone included). Just thinking about the vapors around the US and the on/off switch arc that may happen on turn off (timer stop)....
OP, I have a commercial Crest (big $) that I can put a 18" 'thing' into. I use the Brownells cleaner. I do brass in a tumbler with corn cob. I use SS pins on pulled HP surplus bullets. US is only used for some suppressors and complex assemblies that have no optical elements (i.e. no tritium sights/IR/Visible lasers). Works well in that somewhat limited role.
Another note just for completeness is I also have a large media blast chamber in the garage (~50psi). I use walnut shell media for doing suppressors (aluminum baffles) and it works great (zero finish/metal removal).
Rambling list of things I actually use and results obtained. US is NOT a universal solution (no pun intended), just one process for some things.
I don't know how much of this is of use to the OP, but here's an ultrasonic newbie's experience with one:
1. I originally bought the Harbor Freight model (with 20% off coupon) for around $75.
2. They were out of solution, so when I starting doing online research for cleaning solutions, I ran across the RCBS / Gunslick ultrasonic cleaners, and decided to pay the extra money for the extra features (particularly the built in drain valve).
3. I got the Gunslick version from Grab A Gun for around $126 delivered, although it might have been smarter to go RCBS due to their reputation for handling problems?
4. Got mine for cleaning silencers - after my first experiment, future plans are to initially clean the silencers in the ultrasonic (will require one cleaning solution change) and if required, finish the Element 2 baffles off in a SS tumbler. I think my SS Sparrow will be good to go after ultrasonic only. The Element 2 might also be good to go (you don't need them but so clean), although for my first cleaning I returned them to OEM state so I could try the silicone pre-treatment.
5. I plan to use the ultrasonic first, as it's much easier to change the solution (especially with the drain valve) than doing so with SS tumblers.
6. I used Hornady's Gun Cleaning Solution - I may play with other solutions down the line, but for ease / price, it ain't bad.
I would think cleaning silencers would be tougher than cleaning a gun?
I'm pretty satisfied with the results I got with my first cleaning, both with the unit and the Hornady Ultrasonic Gun Cleaning Solution.
1. I originally bought the Harbor Freight model (with 20% off coupon) for around $75.
2. They were out of solution, so when I starting doing online research for cleaning solutions, I ran across the RCBS / Gunslick ultrasonic cleaners, and decided to pay the extra money for the extra features (particularly the built in drain valve).
3. I got the Gunslick version from Grab A Gun for around $126 delivered, although it might have been smarter to go RCBS due to their reputation for handling problems?
4. Got mine for cleaning silencers - after my first experiment, future plans are to initially clean the silencers in the ultrasonic (will require one cleaning solution change) and if required, finish the Element 2 baffles off in a SS tumbler. I think my SS Sparrow will be good to go after ultrasonic only. The Element 2 might also be good to go (you don't need them but so clean), although for my first cleaning I returned them to OEM state so I could try the silicone pre-treatment.
5. I plan to use the ultrasonic first, as it's much easier to change the solution (especially with the drain valve) than doing so with SS tumblers.
6. I used Hornady's Gun Cleaning Solution - I may play with other solutions down the line, but for ease / price, it ain't bad.
I would think cleaning silencers would be tougher than cleaning a gun?
I'm pretty satisfied with the results I got with my first cleaning, both with the unit and the Hornady Ultrasonic Gun Cleaning Solution.
I have also used Lyman solution with good results and the unit I have is a pretty bare bones generic model. Based on my own experience with US cleaners, I think they are most justifiable when cleaning guns more frequently or you have a lot of guns to clean with each range outing. The time savings becomes much greater at that point. Additionally, if you have certain firearms that are more of a PITA to take apart for a full detail strip, these products can save even more time. A lot of target .22 shooters seem to have these given there are more than a few target .22s that are not at all fun to detail strip, but the fouling from extended usage means a method is required that can thoroughly clean.
The Lyman solution seems to work very well in removing fouling. Since my cheap model does it this well, I am willing to bet higher quality models work much better.
I am sure you already know this, but, do not put an automatic watch in a US cleaner as it can end in a 4 digit repair bill due to damage of the movement, forced oil migration resulting in premature wear, and removal of anti-reflective coatings used on some mid and higher end models (and obviously do not put any watch in it if you are using a solution that can expedite gasket wear.)
The Lyman solution seems to work very well in removing fouling. Since my cheap model does it this well, I am willing to bet higher quality models work much better.
I am sure you already know this, but, do not put an automatic watch in a US cleaner as it can end in a 4 digit repair bill due to damage of the movement, forced oil migration resulting in premature wear, and removal of anti-reflective coatings used on some mid and higher end models (and obviously do not put any watch in it if you are using a solution that can expedite gasket wear.)
spitballer
Member
I got a $50 Lyman 700 from Midway, advertised in a flyer as having a heated tank. Lo and behold, it did not have a heated tank. But for 50 bucks I wasn't going to whine about it I just heat the solution in the microwave. Holds a pint of solution and up to 50 .223 cases, although it cleans them better with fewer cases and I generally clean cases in batches of 20-25. Even then I still have to scrub around the flash holes with a Q-tip, and after a dozen reloads they get pretty nasty around the flash hole. Still trying to come up with an effective scrubber
The nice thing about sonic cleaners is that you'll get your cases clean outside, inside, and a clean primer pocket. You don't, however, get them polished. The good news with this is that there will be no galling of the cases, so, technically, they can be used more times. This is something to be considered with rifle cases.
In my case, I sonic clean my cases when I reload my "class A" ammo that I save for competitive use. I decap them, run them in the sonic cleaner, let them dry, then tumble for an hour or so and they look like jewelry. The clean primer pocket makes for a more positive, better feel when seating the new primer. For my "blasting" ammo, I just give them a wash in hot soapy water, let them dry, tumble and reload.
My solution is home made. I use a mix of regular dish soap and a teaspoon of citric acid. I've found that citric acid does a better job than white vinegar and is milder on brass. I got more pink spots on my brass with vinegar than with citric acid, and the citric acid cleans better. These pink spots, FYI, will go away after tumbling.
In my case, I sonic clean my cases when I reload my "class A" ammo that I save for competitive use. I decap them, run them in the sonic cleaner, let them dry, then tumble for an hour or so and they look like jewelry. The clean primer pocket makes for a more positive, better feel when seating the new primer. For my "blasting" ammo, I just give them a wash in hot soapy water, let them dry, tumble and reload.
My solution is home made. I use a mix of regular dish soap and a teaspoon of citric acid. I've found that citric acid does a better job than white vinegar and is milder on brass. I got more pink spots on my brass with vinegar than with citric acid, and the citric acid cleans better. These pink spots, FYI, will go away after tumbling.
Blue68f100
Member
I guess I should add that using liquid cleaners does not require the the use of a US cleaner for brass. Just dumping de-primed brass in a bucket of solution and stirring will do just as well with the right solution. Where the US shines is cleaning small parts with a lot of fine detail, or hard to get to areas. The US will clean those areas without any hand work or disassemble if there is gap for the crud to come out.
- Status
