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uneven crimp on shot capsules

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by thomis, Apr 9, 2015.

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  1. thomis

    thomis Member

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    I'm using the same Lyman .44 mag die set I have been using for years. For some reason I can't get an even crimp on the Speer shot capsules. I can get a perfect crimp every time on seating any other bullet of any make, size and shape. But when I go to seat and crimp the shot capsules I get an uneven crimp. One side, about have of the edge of the case is crimped just right, the other side or half, doesn't have a proper crimp. Can't figure it out. Anyone else experience this using the Speer capsules?
     

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  2. Blue68f100

    Blue68f100 Member

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    You may need to trim/clean up the mouth so it's even. Then debur it so it will not scrape the plastic. I've loaded those in the years past and you have to be careful not to over crimp.
     
  3. Rule3

    Rule3 Member

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    I tied them in 38 special and pretty much gave up. For as little as I use them I bought a pack of 10 loaded ones. Think I still have 8 of them,:)

    To little crimp, too much crimp they break, I think gluing is the best option,;)

    Blue may have the solution. Use all the same brass, all trimmed and chamfered, they need a taper crimp which a revolver die doesn't want to do.
     
  4. 243winxb

    243winxb Member

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    crimping shot capsules

    Could the seating plug not fit the capsule correctly? Seat and crimp in separate operations. It can be done with the same die. See if it helps?
     
  5. thomis

    thomis Member

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    The seating plug not fitting the capsule is the only remaining explanation, but still not sure how it affects the crimp. I will try it in two different operations as suggested. Thanks guys.
     
  6. TexasDon

    TexasDon Member

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    I use the 357 version for years and always gave me trouble.
    I found a very LITE crimp was needed, plus I started crimp then backed out and turned brass and finished crimp.

    I gave up on them mainly because I can load 38/357 shot shells cheaper with no capsule and use cardboard cards over and under, then a very lite crimp....OR use gas checks. Gas checks work better and look better but cost more than a piece of cardboard cut out with a 38 spl. with sharpened edges that is slightly belled to be a little over sized to fit tightly.

    I load these things with everything from #4 to #9 shot. I live deep in the woods and they work good for several things. I use them a lot to frighten off Coyotes when they get too close to the house or chicken coop. I don't want to kill every animal that comes around, so these shot shells work good to scare them off.

    I've watched the Speer capsules going up in price and breaking more. Plus ever other box had a missing cap???
    I finally got mad and told Speer I have had several boxes of their capsules missing a few caps, and the latest one had 2 missing...
    They sent me TWO caps to fix my problems..!!!! :eek:

    Oh well...Cards and gas checks work better any ways, plus the gas checks give you two more projectiles, but they fly wild... :D

    TxD
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  7. Rule3

    Rule3 Member

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    TexasDon, Can you explain in detail how you make them? I have a article somewhere but can't find it. I did at one time make a punch out of 357 brass, flared and sharpened. What card stock do you use. Like playing cards?

    Also do you hot melt glue them in??

    Use the same load data as for the plastic things or less?
     
  8. Salmoneye

    Salmoneye Member

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    I hate the capsules, and get better patterns with just over powder and over shot cards...

    A drop of school glue smeared around the over shot card to seal is all I use...

    I believe that the capsule over rotates the shot, thus blowing the pattern into a doughnut...

    With a straight column of shot, only the pellets in contact with the barrel get spun, leaving a better center pattern...
     
  9. Longhorn 76

    Longhorn 76 Member

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    A Redding profile crimp die will fix this for you.
     
  10. TimSr

    TimSr Member

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    I ran into that a little bit too with higher mileage cases that had never been trimmed. (who rims revolver?) Anyways, a quick trim to make the case mouth even solved it for me. I'm also using Lyman dies, vintage 80's.

    Your crimp is not critical in these, and just needs to be enough to hold it in place, and fit in the chamber.
     
  11. Rule3

    Rule3 Member

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  12. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    I have never had a problem.

    1. Use a very generous case mouth bell.
    2. Use a flat end wad cutter seating stem.
    3. Use just enough crimp to close the case mouth bell and hold them in place.

    rc
     
  13. TexasDon

    TexasDon Member

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    Sorry I did not get back to this sooner, my aerobic system septic air pump crashed and have been working on it.

    But thats pretty much the way I do it as in your link.
    I just did the brass cutter differently, I just sharpened up the lip with a slight bell, then drilled out the primer pocket for a 10/32 screw with nut to chuck into drill press. ( or just use a hammer ) I also cut a slot on the side of the brass to allow for a thin wire to push the cards out.

    I like the cards to be tight. I use cardboard like on back of yellow legal pads.
    It seems to be stiffer and works better.

    I don't like glue down my barrel, so I slightly crimp the case just enough to keep the card and shot in. You will have to play with this.

    txd
     
  14. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    That has been my experience and method as well.

    I more often that not have my 45 with me, don't use enough shot rounds to buy CH dies but I was almost out of my last stash of remington shot rounds for 45 acp, so I made my own setup.

    Used cut down 243 brass and modified an old pistol die to form, seat the cut down .410 wad and crimp the overshot card in place.

    They pattern a lot better than the Speer capsules, I use #12 shot.

    IMG_20140324_174317_588_zpsbb497e50.jpg

    IMG_20140325_145002_558_zpsa27dad0f.jpg
     
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