Unsafe Model 19 ??

[TN Trapper]

I asked this question on another forum but didn't get much of a response:

What, if any, "unsafe" event would unfold due to shooting .38 spl. lead bullets from a S&W Model 19 with a SMALL crack in the forcing cone?

Here's the deal. I have four Model 19's two are NIB safe queens, one is a 6" target model in 95%, the other I have had for nearly twenty years. It was my duty gun for several years as a deputy and has been on countless hiking, camping and fishing trips. About two years ago I noticed a small crack in the forcing cone and have kept .38 special LSW +P in it since. At first I searched for a replacement barrel but was never able to locate one . I'm not getting rid of the gun because of it's personal history. I have even shot at varmits and ferral dogs with it and after inspection the crack has not gotten worse. Now, I don't take it out for a weekend of shooting by any means. I fire it only when I need to. I am not advocating this practice to anyone. I could understand putting it away if the crack was severe enough but as for now I don't see the danger. So again I ask: What, if any, "unsafe" event would unfold due to shooting .38 spl. lead bullets from a S&W Model 19 with a SMALL crack in the forcing cone?

 

[SaxonPig]

I would not shoot it. It might give no trouble at all but I would not shoot it.

A barrel could be found for $25-$75 and a smith will charge $75-$100 to install it.

 

[.41Dave]

Like SaxonPig said, "It might give no trouble at all but I would not shoot it." I wouldn't shoot it either. The structural integrity of the barrel is compromised, and I would not want to risk a KB. ebay and Numrich ( www.e-gunparts.com ) sometimes get model 19 barrels. Keep an eye open and buy a replacement when you have the opportunity.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

Me three. I don't know what would happen, but would not want to find out. My guess would be excessive cylinder blast and debris thrown out.

 

[XavierBreath]

It's my understanding that uncracked Model 19 barrels are pretty much non-existant unless they are attached to a gun. If you can find one and swap it out, do it, certainly.

I, too, would not shoot the gun. Cracks from metal fatigue can be very decieving. Only a dye penetrant or magnaflux test can really tell you what is going on. Visual inspection just doesn't cut it. The crack could very well be, and probably is worse than you think.

I would retire the gun. Not only is at risk for further damage, but it's accuracy cannot be very good with a cracked forcing cone. Shooting at varmits with it is not something I would do. I would get an accurate .22 rifle like a used Marlin 60 for the varmits, pop them in the head and kill 'em. No sense in making them suffer, even if they are varmits.

 

[Confederate]

I don't think there's much of a problem shooting it, myself. When a gun goes out of time it spits lead to one side or the other depending on the make and how off center the gun is off. The forcing cones really aren't fragile, but I'd think bullets hitting them from the side would be more of a problem than a crack in the forcing cone. I'd watch it, and would especially not want people to the side of me when I shoot it; however, it will tend to bend and warp a bit. The cones of many .38s are almost nothing. Thin little rings of steel. But magnums have heavier cones.

Watch the crack and see if it grows, but you shouldn't have any immediate problem. Also, keep in mind that magnum ammo can release hot gases that leech the carbon out of the steel. Stainless has much more chromium than standard steel, and the same chromium that gives stainless its protective qualities also protects it from gas cutting and erosion. But if you watch the cone and it doesn't seem to be cracking in other places, chances are you'll be fine.

(Incidentally, it's either the leeching of carbon or the heat treatment of the gun steel that results in forcing cone cracks. For some reason, Smith & Wesson had more problems with cracked forcing cones in its medium frame magnums than Rugers, which reported it had no problems. Yet the forcing cones seem to be about the same size.)

 

[byf43]

Send the mdl 19 back to S&W and get the barrel replaced.

I bought a mdl 19 (4") in 1979. (Bangor Punta era.)
The barrel cracked after 125 rounds.
It went back to S&W and they replaced the barrel.
This revolver has had 10,000+ through it, since. If there is such a thing as the 'perfect revolver', this one is it.

Granted, the revolver was new, but, I'd send it back and have the manufacturer do the deed.

Who knows. . . maybe they'll show some 'professional courtesy' since it was your 'duty' weapon. (????????????)

 

[jad0110]

For some reason, Smith & Wesson had more problems with cracked forcing cones in its medium frame magnums than Rugers, which reported it had no problems.

I do agree, although you may recall a story I related a few months ago about a Ruger GP100 that I saw one time with a totally blown forcing cone. It had a huge chunk of material (call it 1/16") missing at the 6 o'clock position . The shooter reported that it felt a little "funny". It wouldn't have been so funny had he not noticed in time.

TN,

This is definitely not an area that I have ANY expertise in, but I'd say at a minimum it would be a good idea to take or send it to an experienced gunsmith and get his/her opinion on it before shooting it again.

If it didn't have such strong sentimental value, and if you didn't mind Smiths with the ILS, I'd say send it to S&W and they'd probably send you a NIB 620 or 686.

 

[jad0110]

byf43,

I don't think S&W is repairing K Frames with cracked/blown forcing cones any longer. I think they just send you a roughly equivalent NIB replacement gun, usually an L Frame 357 of some kind.

I guess the moral of the story for K Frame 357 shooters is to stay away from the 110 and 125 grain 357 ammo as much as possible.

 

[Confederate]

Any gun can have a blown barrel if it's subjected to overly hot loads. I think pound for pound, ounce for ounce, there's not a stronger revolver than the Ruger. Even a 686 won't stand up round for round with a Ruger. Still, if I had my choice, I'd take a Smith 686 for a variety of reasons.