'Upgraded' 10-22

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ExAgoradzo

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It looks like it will cost me about $300 to upgrade my 10-22.
On the one hand, this as my first 'gun smithing' is attractive to me.
Getting better groups is also attractive.
Spending 3 bills when that will buy me a new 10-22 at Big 5 is not attractive.
Question: will the new barrel and stock I can get for that money significantly improve the group sizes and the chance for the odd squirrel?
Thanks,
Greg
 
Question: will the new barrel and stock I can get for that money significantly improve the group sizes and the chance for the odd squirrel?

Tell us what kind of ammo you're shooting and what kind of group sizes you're getting with the factory barrel and stock and we can give you an intelligent answer.

Without that info, just go with whatever makes you feel good.
 
Three things to consider. Ammo. You. the weapon. Ironsights/Scope.
All those are directly related to the out come. Better scores/groups or the occasional Squirrel.
Making them "look" nice has no value except to the owner. Target rifles are designed to give the shooter the best chance at the end game........better scores/groups.
Most regular 22`s will do nicely. Save your money ,but a Lotto ticket.
 
Right now I am using CCI and a 'mix' of ammo. I'm getting 2-3MOA. Everything is stock.
If anything I like the look of stock, that is not why I'm modding it.

On a previous thread you all told me to get Wolf Target and we've got a show coming up Ill get some then.

I know you can spend big money on barrels and stocks, but would like to know if they are worth it.

Thanks again,
Greg
 
MOA Corp Some pretty interesting things have been done with this receiver, I believe there was guy getting on paper @ 400yds with one of these. He posted on here, but I cant find the thread right now Ill update later if I find it.
 
I don't see the point of the MOA receiver, might as well just buy a new rifle. I highly doubt the Ruger receivers are that sloppy. IF I were going to spend money on a 10/22 it would be barrel first new rifle second, glad I don't have that problem.

I also doubt the MOA CORP receiver has much impact on getting a .22 on paper at 400 yards. That is the shooter and a TON of luck, not the receiver. The bullet drop of a 36gr CCI mini-mag at 400 yards is 249.51 inches. I'd be more impressed with a single ragged hole at 50 yards but I suspect you won't see one posted anywhere using that receiver.

My bone stock 10/22 is way accurate enough for squirrels as I suspect most out of the box rifles would be also. I suspect most folks having accuracy issues with their 10/22's need to look in the mirror or at their ammo.

OP, I would experiment with different brands and types of ammo to find what your particular gun likes best. My likes Federal bulk as the best of the cheap stuff.
 
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I own three 10/22's. Two have aftermarket barrels and stocks will shoot dime sized groups at 50 yards with Wolf M/T ammo. The other 10/22 is set up as a sleeper other than the Mueller APV scope and jeweled bolt , it is totally stock...except it was sent to Randy at CT Precision for a Full tune-up;) For ~$225 the rifle shoots as well as either of my 10/22's with match barrels and free floated stocks.
 
I'd be more impressed with a single ragged hole at 50 yards but I suspect you won't see one posted anywhere using that receiver. Agree! Ammo...
 
I started with a Magnum Research 17 Mach II that fired out of battery, and Magnum Research wouldn't acknowledge my existence. So I ordered a KIDD match Stainless 18" Bull Barrel and a KIDD Charge Handle and installed them. I was so impressed with the accuracy that I added a KIDD Match Trigger Group, Match Bolt and Recoil Pin. Here is the 25 yard sight-in target shooting CCI SVs!

Target1a.jpg

Building your own is very rewarding!!
 
I started out with a Ruger 10-22 Deluxe and, after reading lots of info on various 'net boards, replaced the barrel with a Shilen bull, tuned the trigger, and devised a pretty good bedding system and action work that turned mine into a super-accurate rifle, using mostly factory parts. It shot 10 consecutive 5-shot groups at 50 yards, that averaged .37" (recorded on Prove-It website). It's won many informal target events as well, and is pure joy to shoot offhand.

This is how to do it yourself at minimal cost: http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251035

I like Green Mtn. barrels, though lots of companies make good ones these days.
 
Its been my experience that most people see more accuracy from trigger improvements than barrel swaps.

If you want a bench rifle, then build an accurate, 9lb 10/22. If you want a walking rifle, put Tech Sights and a good sling on it and call it good. With 10/22's, less is more. Nearly everyone who dumps $$$ into a 10/22 ends up selling it because it gets boring putting tiny 10 shot groups into paper a 50 yards. When I get 1" groups at 50 yards with my plain jane 10/22 with Tech Sights, rested on a fence post, I am very happy indeed. Practical use says stay far away from too many farkles.
 
Spending 3 bills when that will buy me a new 10-22 at Big 5 is not attractive.
In the end, only you can justify the cost. A relatively cheap barrel (~$100) may or may not improve accuracy, depending on how good or bad your barrel is. Which is why I don't bother with them. A good barrel will absolutely improve accuracy and even a CZ will be jealous. Methinks most negative internet rhetoric on this subject originates with cheap barrels. I would strongly suggest spending good money on a barrel and expect that to be $200 or more. Everything else can be upgraded over time. Clark, Shilen, KID and Lilja all produce very good barrels, with Lilja being the best and most expensive. I'd suggest one of the first three. Clark and Shilen offer mid-weight barrels that are a FAR better solution if you want to actually use your rifle in the field. For some reason, many think they need a bull barrel for accuracy but this is not the case.


Its been my experience that most people see more accuracy from trigger improvements than barrel swaps.
You can shoot tiny groups with a 5lb trigger and a good barrel but it's impossible to shoot tiny groups with a KID trigger and factory barrel.


I don't see the point of the MOA receiver, might as well just buy a new rifle. I highly doubt the Ruger receivers are that sloppy. IF I were going to spend money on a 10/22 it would be barrel first new rifle second, glad I don't have that problem.
The point of an aftermarket receiver is to get a better platform for you build and to avoid buying a complete rifle and then replacing everything. When I did this one, I could've bought a Ruger carbine for $230 and then replaced everything but the receiver and bolt. I did not, I bought an aftermarket receiver for $130, which is all CNC machined, has a real anodized hardcoat and is setup for a more robust scope mount using 8-40 screws. Then I bought an accurized bolt for $80. The appeal of the MOA in particular is that it is stainless steel instead of aluminum, which eliminates the barrel droop issue when hanging a heavy barrel off an aluminum receiver.


I also doubt the MOA CORP receiver has much impact on getting a .22 on paper at 400 yards. That is the shooter and a TON of luck, not the receiver. The bullet drop of a 36gr CCI mini-mag at 400 yards is 249.51 inches. I'd be more impressed with a single ragged hole at 50 yards but I suspect you won't see one posted anywhere using that receiver.
It might, might not. I have never shot a .22LR at 400yds but it ain't luck when I shoot it at 250yds. It just requires a scope with a lot of adjustment and/or a canted base. Again, I'm not understanding the hostility towards the MOA receiver. It's one of the best available.


My bone stock 10/22 is way accurate enough for squirrels as I suspect most out of the box rifles would be also. I suspect most folks having accuracy issues with their 10/22's need to look in the mirror or at their ammo.
It depends solely on the individuals needs. Sometimes a stock rifle is accurate enough, sometimes it is not. A rifle that only shoots 1"@50yds is basically a 50yd rifle. The .22LR has a lot more potential for this and if you want to shoot small game beyond 50yds, you need more accuracy.

Nodak receiver, KID 2-stage trigger, R/T bolt, Clark 21.5" mid-weight barrel, Warne mounts, Bushnell Elite 10x and Boyd's "tacticool" stock. Good for 0.30"@50yds with Wolf MT. Which is 0.10" better than my CZ shoots.
IMG_8118b.jpg
 
Good for 0.30"@50yds with Wolf MT
You can shoot tiny groups with a 5lb trigger and a good barrel but it's impossible to shoot tiny groups with a KID trigger and factory barrel.

This is very good for a bench rifle, but for squirrels your not likely to be laying prone or firing from a bench. How well can you shoot that same setup standing freehand? 2" at 50 yards on a good day? Trigger mods increase practical accuracy more than the unrealized accuracy from a heavy barrel, when hunting. A .2moa rifle is really a 4moa rifle when firing from an unsupported standing position.
 
I know you can mod a factory part butnfor 10$ this is worth it http://www.coolguyguns.com/Auto-Bolt-Release_p_36.html
And a hogue stock
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/11...ed-rifle-stock-ruger-10-22-920-barrel-channel
And tech sights
http://www.tech-sights.com/ruger3.htm

Rifle bought used for 130 (a stainless) About 140$ in "upgrades"--hogue stock not required but i much prefer the feel. I have a huge stockpile of 2c a round 22 ammo so i can shoot it all i want and get good iron sight practice.
 
Having a few 10-22's around it was time to experiment. The first was a stainless with a mannlicher stock. I installed a Ron Powers hammer and sear pack. Trigger about 2 1/2 lbs, shrunk those groups. The second had the same trigger help and a hogue stock and green Mt. stainless barrel. Groups were even better. Once the trigger pull is decreased the groups with decrease if you do your part.
 
But you didn't buy a 10/22 CraigC, not even close to being the same thing. Of course if you're going to build your own from the start you can buy what you think are the best components from each different MFG. However, that is a far cry from plunking down $250 and then proceeding to change out the parts when you don't really need to do that.
 
As someone who has built several 10-22's that I put about $700 each into, I'll be the THIRD person in this thread to recommend you buy a CZ bolt-action instead.
 
This is very good for a bench rifle, but for squirrels your not likely to be laying prone or firing from a bench. How well can you shoot that same setup standing freehand? 2" at 50 yards on a good day? Trigger mods increase practical accuracy more than the unrealized accuracy from a heavy barrel, when hunting. A .2moa rifle is really a 4moa rifle when firing from an unsupported standing position.
It's not a bench rifle, which is why I used a mid-weight barrel instead of a bull. I don't know where folks get this nonsense but you will always shoot more accurately with a more accurate rifle. Period. This should be blatantly obvious but I guess not. A heavier barrel will also increase stability when shooting offhand. This should also be obvious. To answer your question, I shot a 242/250 at my first Appleseed with this rifle, equipped with a 4.5lb trigger. Like I said, you can overcome a heavy trigger but it's impossible to overcome an inaccurate barrel.


But you didn't buy a 10/22 CraigC, not even close to being the same thing.
Uh, that was kinda the point??? That when you're building one from scratch, you 'may' want to start with an aftermarket receiver, like the MOA you lambasted in your post. :rolleyes:


I'll be the THIRD person in this thread to recommend you buy a CZ bolt-action instead.
And how does that help someone who already has a 10/22 or wants a semi-auto???
 
In context of the original post the accuracy gained by changing out the receiver would be the least effective way to proceed. Trigger, shooter and barrel have FAR more impact on accuracy and there is zero evidence that receiver or any other is better than that produced by Ruger. What was it PT Barnum said?
 
So, I take it that, in order:
1. I get better.
2. Wolf or similar target ammo.
3. Trigger
4. Barrel/stock (bc to get a better barrel I have to get a new stock).
5. Ideas for sub $400? I can't/won't go higher than that. Or am I just not willing to go high enough?
BTW: this is NOT a bench gun. I don't own a 'bench' gun. But that doesn't preclude a bull barrel (./?)
Thanks again,
Greg
 
So, I take it that, in order:
1. I get better.
2. Wolf or similar target ammo.
3. Trigger
4. Barrel/stock (bc to get a better barrel I have to get a new stock).
5. Ideas for sub $400? I can't/won't go higher than that. Or am I just not willing to go high enough?
BTW: this is NOT a bench gun. I don't own a 'bench' gun. But that doesn't preclude a bull barrel (./?)
Thanks again,
Greg
Back to the original discussion. I would suggest buying a good barrel from Clark, Shilen or KID. This will set you back ~$200. I would strongly recommend against a steel bull barrel because it makes the rifle too heavy and clumsy for anything but bench work. So that leaves Clark and Shilen mid-weight barrels. You do not have to get a new stock. You can get a ¾" barrel channel rasp for under $20 and open the channel in your existing stock. For now, you can get by just fine with the $35 Volquartsen target hammer.


In context of the original post the accuracy gained by changing out the receiver would be the least effective way to proceed.
For whatever reason, you're not picking up what I'm putting down. YOU lambasted the MOA receiver and I pointed out the err of your logic, explaining why one would build on an aftermarket receiver. Nobody said ANYTHING about "changing the receiver". It would be stupid beyond measure to buy a rifle and then change everything, including the receiver. Then what's the point in buying the rifle??? No silly, you buy a bare aftermarket receiver to build a rifle upon, not the other way around. :rolleyes:


Trigger, shooter and barrel have FAR more impact on accuracy...
I don't know where this crap comes from. Nobody here has suggested "changing the receiver". He already has a rifle, that would make absolutely zero sense. :confused:


...there is zero evidence that receiver or any other is better than that produced by Ruger. What was it PT Barnum said?
A fool and his money are soon parted? How do you figured that??? I spent $200 on a CNC machined receiver and accurized bolt, rather than spending $250 on a complete rifle, with a spray painted receiver and then having to replace everything else??? There's some foolish logic in this discussion but it ain't mine. The Nodak receiver is all CNC machined from billet, compared to Ruger's casting which is only partly machined, with lots of casting roughness. The Nodak has a real anodized type III hardcoat like an AR, compared to Ruger's spray on finish that flakes off just looking at it. The Nodak receiver utilizes a flat top and Marlin 336 scope mounts with beefier 8-40 screws, compared to Ruger's tiny 6-48's. Others have an integral Weaver rail. The MOA that you've been deriding is all stainless steel so it does not suffer from barrel droop with a heavy bullet barrel, which can also be threaded for a more secure connection. Everything about these receivers is better than Ruger's, which is sort of the point, whether you "get it" or not. :rolleyes:
 
Right now I am using CCI and a 'mix' of ammo. I'm getting 2-3MOA. Everything is stock.

That's about normal for a stock 10/22 using mixed ammo. 2 MOA means you're shooting 1/2" groups at 25 yards, all the holes can be covered by a dime (about 3/4" in diameter). So you've got some room for improvement.

So, I take it that, in order:
1. I get better.
2. Wolf or similar target ammo.
3. Trigger
4. Barrel/stock (bc to get a better barrel I have to get a new stock).
5. Ideas for sub $400? I can't/won't go higher than that. Or am I just not willing to go high enough?

1) That's always a help. If you're going for max accuracy on a .22, it's very helpful to have a scope with adjustable parallax.

2) Fancy ammo probably won't do you a whole lot of good with the stock barrel. The standard Ruger .22 chamber is cut long enough to accept any kind of .22 ammo, which makes it sloppy and means the bullet has to make a big jump before it gets to the rifling.

A semi-match chamber such as a Bentz will engrave a standard .22 LR into the rifling while still allowing an unfired round to be extracted. A full match chamber will engrave the bullet so deeply that a 10/22 extractor cannot pull an unfired round out. The factory 10/22 Target comes from Ruger with a Bentz chamber and a warning not to use certain kinds of ammo. Most aftermarket barrels for the 10/22 use a Bentz chamber and come with a warning similar to this from Lilja:

The drop-in barrels we manufacture for the Ruger 10/22 are chambered with a "Bentz" semi-auto match reamer and it is not as short as the other match reamers we use. Unfired ammo can be extracted from this chamber. We do not recommend using CCI Velocitor or Stinger ammo in the 10/22 barrel.

3) A light crisp trigger can make a significant difference in group sizes. Any of the drop-in triggers/hammers from Kidd, Volquartsen, or Powers will be like night and day compared to the factory trigger.

4) A better barrel will allow you to take advantage of better ammo.

5) A $200 barrel, $100 trigger, and target grade ammo should get you down to 1/2 MOA (off a bench) if you do your part and have a decent scope. That's a 1/8" group at 25 yards, all the holes within 3/8" diameter (1/2 of a dime).

RIMFIRE CENTRAL has a whole sub-forum on hot-rodding 10/22's. Lots more info than you'll get on here.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php
 
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