Upgrading a new Ruger 10-22

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Threeband

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Well I finally got around to picking up a 10-22. My notion is to use it as a practice companion for my AR15 carbine, and as a general utility-grade .22.
I plan to set it up with Tech Sights (probably the TSR200),a sling, and maybe a Choate folder down the road. Tech sights first though.

Ah, and then there's the trigger.

MY QUESTION IS:

Can I just drop in this Ruger target trigger from Midway and have done with it?


http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=666678


666678.jpg
 
yes, or you can stone your factory parts, or for fast and cheapest , get a VQ hammer replacement, and not only will it vastly improve your weight and pull, but wont' cost near as much as that replacement.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I'm looking at three or four levels here:



1) Replace the hammer and do some stoning.

2) Drop in a factory target trigger group.

3-a) Send the trigger group only to Clark Custom Guns (thanks for the link) for a trigger job.

3-b) Send the whole rifle to Clarks for the deluxe package.



Remember, this is the new and improved 2008 model basic carbine with the plastic trigger, trigger guard, and barrel band. (Buttplate too.)

Can anything be done with the plastic trigger group parts, or am I better off replacing the whole group?



I can get this kit for only $5 more than the entire trigger group, and I'm still stuck with the plastic trigger guard:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=269423

269423.jpg



I'm not trying to set up a full-blown target rifle here. Just a trainer/ utility/ beater.

Still, option 3-a (send trigger group only to Clarks) might make sense, but if I'm going to spend $100, why not $200 and get the whole package?

I want a knock-around .22. My Marlin 39-A is my Sunday-go-to-meetin" .22.
 
There is really not a lot you can't do on your own to the 10/22.

You may check out shooters discount, I bought a trigger assy. for about $108 with VQ upgrades already in it, or you can get a hamer, sear kit and do it your self. Shop around for your parts. these parts are ready to go,,, be careful stoning and altering parts, it can be done just be careful.

The plastic Trigger Housing is not as bad as some thought at first.The one I ordered had the metal housing.

You can find great guides here, or on Rimfire Central, or on ruger22.com. These site have complete detailed instructions, with pictures to guide you through the proccess. And you do it, feel good, and can save a few$$.

Good luck,,,
Have fun, be safe, go shooting.
 
There are quite a few DIY options in the Brownell's catalog, as well as Midway's and several other sources you could access.

The only substantial advantage to a prefab trigger assembly that I can see is that you could keep it intact while replacing the factory trigger group should you sell or trade your current 10/22 for another.

I installed the Volquartsen kit in one of my carbines a few years back. It was a pretty straight forward process and took about an hour going slowly and carefully. The included directions were very complete and easy to follow. The kit even included the "slave" pins necessary to keep things together during installation in the housing without needing several extra hands.

Personally, I think it's a better idea to swap the factory parts with matched replacement components than it is to modify the stock units unless one has both the proper tools and a good deal of skill and experience in that type of work.

It doesn't take much of an "oops!" to render a hammer, sear or the like unusable or unsafe. Given the current "unsettling" position taken by the BATFE on what constitutes a "machinegun" in a recent court case, the potential consequences of a having a multiple discharge due to getting an angle wrong or taking a tiny bit too much material off a critical part are too weird for me to want to chance it right now. YMMV, but do think about it.
 
All I've done to the triggers on any of mine is drop in a Volquartsen or Power Custom hammer. For $30 or so, you end up with a 2-3 pound trigger with as much creep and overtravel as the regular factory trigger. Not perfect, but very much more shootable than the 8 or 9 pound pull they come with.
 
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