I dunno, cracks around the rivets and the thinness of the material give me pause. If the handguard stays on the rifle, then it would probably hold if the wood is kept from drying out. If the guy likes to dismount the action, not so much.
If this wasn't a collectible firearm and handguard, I would be tempted to anchor both ends of the cracks with inlays across the crack as in British No. 1 rear handguard style or bowtie inlays rather than just relying on the clip and epoxy to hold it together. One thing I like is colored panel nails bent into a horseshoe shape--these have epoxy coating, are colored, and the metal ridges on the panel nail hold epoxy very well. I have done a VZ-24 handguard with that approach and done pretty well.
I have used a careful scraping of a relief on the back side of a handguard to put some metal reinforcement in an epoxy matrix in the depression. In general, I dislike the metal clamping bracket style of a lot of handguards as they seem prone to me breakage and cracks
If this wasn't a collectible firearm and handguard, I would be tempted to anchor both ends of the cracks with inlays across the crack as in British No. 1 rear handguard style or bowtie inlays rather than just relying on the clip and epoxy to hold it together. One thing I like is colored panel nails bent into a horseshoe shape--these have epoxy coating, are colored, and the metal ridges on the panel nail hold epoxy very well. I have done a VZ-24 handguard with that approach and done pretty well.
I have used a careful scraping of a relief on the back side of a handguard to put some metal reinforcement in an epoxy matrix in the depression. In general, I dislike the metal clamping bracket style of a lot of handguards as they seem prone to me breakage and cracks