Used 870P - pics and rust removal

[BluesDancer]

Hi All,
I need some help. Per a suggestion from someone on THR a couple months ago, I recently ordered a 2005 production police surplus 870 Police Magnum (parkerized finish) from Summit Gun Broker. It generally looked fine and fully functional except for the fact that there was surface rust forming on a couple different parts: the bore, small areas of the shell loading gate, 60% of the receiver and the bolt face. It almost seems that perhaps this gun was sitting in a police car for a few years tolerating nasty extremes in weather.

I am having trouble removing some of this surface rust and was hoping you all could assist.

TOOLS I HAVE ON HAND ARE:
CLP Breakfree, Hoppes #9, FP-10 cleaner, a 12-gauge bronze brush and a bronze "toothbrush"

THIS IS WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR:
#1 - Rubbed CLP Breakfree into areas with rust, left for 24 hours, scrubbed vigorously afterward with bronze brushes (both of them)
#2 - Repeated step #1 about 3+ times (spanning multiple days).

At this point almost 100% of the surface rust came out of the bore and shell loading gate, however the receiver and bolt face still are lined with what appears to be rust dots.

#3 then I put Hoppes #9 on receiver and bolt face, left overnight, scrubbed vigorously afterward with bronze brushes (both of them).
#4 - repeated step 3 an additional time (spanning 2+ days)

WHERE I AM NOW:
NOW the rust (pitting?) still remains on majority of the receiver and bolt face. Am I doing anything wrong? Should CLP Breakfree + bronze brushes eventually get this difficult rust loose?

I thought I could handle the rust removal and I DID remove it from half the affected surfaces but I'm having a hard time with the rest (receiver and bolt face). I've been at this for a week now. Can you assist and/or make suggestions? I need help =)

Thanks!

 

[farscott]

Get some Kroil penetrating oil. Let it soak into the areas with rust. After twelve hours or so, a bronze brush should be able to lift the rust. Once the rust is visibly removed, remember to thoroughly oil the gun with an oil designed to provide corrosion protection. I like to use BreakFree CLP on Parkerized surfaces. RIG+P grease is also excellent on this application.

Warning: Kroil smells horrible, so I tend to apply it outside. It is somewhat toxic.

 

[BluesDancer]

Get some Kroil penetrating oil. Let is soak into the areas with rust. After twelve hours or so, a bronze brush should be able to lift the rust. Once the rust is visibly removed, remember to thoroughly oil the gun.

Warning: Kroil smells horrible, so I tend to apply it outside.

Where do I find Kroil? I checked Ace Hardware and an auto shop nearby to no avail. Is there a best/cheapest place online to order this stuff?

Also, should I get the Kano Kroil, Aero Kroil, etc?

Thanks!

 

[MIL-DOT]

Check high-volume gun-related retailers like MidwayUSA and Brownells. Also take a look at Amazon. And, the most obvious, have you called a local gun store? A Google-search for 'Kroil retailers' or 'kroil for sale' should bring up numerous vendors.

 

[farscott]

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...lubricant-protectant-oils/kroil-prod7610.aspx

If Kroil does not work, the next step is more aggressive.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...face-prep/rust-and-blue-remover-prod1083.aspx

 

[lemaymiami]

Along with other places listed I was able to find Kroil the first time I looked on E-Bay (and that can of solvent/lube was cheaper on E-Bay than it was on any "gun supply site" since it was shipped direct with none of the usual hazmat routine....).

Kroil and steel wool, worked over and over by hand has saved a few blued weapons for me (and I learned about Kroil here on this site...). Down here in south Florida corrosion is an on-going problem (even with "stainless" weapons) so after the anti-rust routine I went to a thorough coating of RIG grease (another of those older remedies you'll have to sort through a few gun supply outfits to find). After really working it into the metal, I polish if off with a clean dry cloth (or gun patch) and my gear should be good for at least six months, then it will get another coat...

One other thought...I write magazine articles (fishing topics only) and have to do my own photography... If you want better pics of any gun, make a point of getting it into good daylight, then take your pics with the item laying on a contrasting color. You'll be glad you did and when posted up we'll actually be able to see what your problem is...

 

[200Apples]

.

Warning: Kroil smells horrible, so I tend to apply it outside.

Kroil smells great! but I agree that it may seem a strong scent, therefore do not use a lot of it in a confined area without plenty of ventilation.

 

[zoom6zoom]

Your best price on Kroil is direct from the maker. Split it with a buddy, it's pretty much a lifetime supply for both of you.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

I would also recommend starting with bronze wool, not steel. It's gentler, and no danger of removing blueing with it.

 

[Hookeye]

We go through tons of Kroil at work.
Can smell that a mile away.

You can find the small squeeze cans at decent gun shops, but it is pricey.

The factory runs specials on their website (used to). Sometimes very very good ones.

If you do automotive work, the aerokroil is great (won't do a Jeep lift kit without it). Reg fluid in a spray bottle would work, but the aero lets you soak stuff from a distance.

Is your 870P really parkerized or is it matte finish? Parkerizing tends to look greenish, or have a brownish tint to it. And if rust gets under it.........it aint comin' off. There may be other things that stain parkerizing, I dunno.

Got an 1100 Special Purpose Magnum (they were parkerized) with stains dirt cheap. I simply degreased it and shot it with Gunkote. Is now black, no abnormal finish where the stains were, nice and even, been hunting turkeys with it for 3 yrs. Looks like a new receiver.

Many people confuse the 870 Special Purpose and Express models as being parkerized. They may have done some military or police versions. My 870Ps were all gloss blue Magnums from the 80's. With walnut. Pretty

Commercial 870/1100........the 1100 SP was the only one parkerized.
Have seen some 870P parkerized but they'd also been sent to custom shops, so dunno if they were factory finish.

 

[Sunray]

Any light oil will do. And some 0000 steel wool.
Have a black phosphated slug barrel on mine. Parkerizing is a brand name for the zinc or manganese based oxide finish used by the U.S. military. Really makes no difference what the finish is. 0000 steel wool and light oil will take off the surfaced rust without bothering either oxide or blued finishes.

 

[gwpercle]

Another "old school " rust soaking agent is kerosene, buy a bottle of hurricane lamp oil or kerosene lamp oil, soak the rusty parts for at least a week, the more rust the longer the soak. It softens the rust so you can remove it. I use 0000 steel wool, and a real copper penny ( 1982 or earlier are 95% copper and will dot damage blued metal ) to scrape any stubborn spots.
Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and rust Remover is good to finish up with.
Don't use any wire brushes on the out side, that will leave scratches. Barrel cleaning is a bronze bore brush, wrapped with a thin layer of 0000 steel wool and coated with J-B Bore cleaning Paste...then a lot of back and forth with the rod, just the ticket for shotgun, rifle or pistol barrel cleaning. J-B Bore past is a mild abrasive so it may take three or four sessions to totaly remove the rust..just don't get discouraged . You can also put the J-B on a tight fitting patch , but I find the wool wrapped brush more effective.
Gary

 

[spazzymcgee]

A light oil like Rem Oil, and some 0000 steel wool. Put the oil on the rust and then all over the steel wool. That's always worked very well for me without removing finish. I've done this on at least 20 guns without an issue. Go slow and check your progress often though.