Using Imperial Sizing Wax

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Used Imperial Sizing wax like this post said... Ran my index finger across the wax once and coated all of the brass except the shoulder. Re-applied to my finger every time for a few times and then every 2-3 shells. I was FL re-sizing .223. I had a stuck case after about 25 shells. I switched to Dillon spray in a plastic baggy with about 20 shells and had no problems. Perhaps the error was my own but the dillon was far easier. I removed the lubricant by tumbling again while trimming other shells.
 
I found that the hornady spray lube works great, if you follow the directions. I didn't my last batch and ended up denting the shoulders. The key is to follow the instructions. I didn't. I paid for it. I learned.

Uncle Chan
 
I must be the one in a thousand that has not had a good experience with Imperial sizing wax.

I have a small press (the RCBS Jr. for those of you who can remember it) that does not have the power of the modern presses. This means I can really feel the pressure it takes to full length resize the larger rifle cases. My two-cents worth is this:

The absolute best lube for high pressure forming is Rooster CFL-56 case forming lubricant. Goes on the same way as Imperial, but works 1000% better.

If you are sizing small (223 Rem. or so) cases, almost any good spray lube will do and is much quicker. Use the bag method. I use Hornady One-Shot.

While Imperial Sizing Wax will not dissolve in water, it will dissolve in naptha (common lighter fluid for your Zippo cigarrete lighter, or available in Home Depot paint department).

I use my "liquid Imperial" on a small round brush to lubercate the inside of the case mouths -- works better than anything I have found.

Take about a quarter teaspoon of Imperial sizing wax and mix with one ounce of naptha in a small glass bottle. You can use a regular hair drier to heat the mixture up to 130 degrees F or so to make the dissolving go faster. After use be sure to cap the bottle with a tight fitting cap so the naptha won't evaproate.

Dip a nylon bore brush that fits the case neck gently into the Imperial/naptha solution, and make one pass inside the case neck (a Q-Tip will also work). Let dry for ten minutes or so and you will have a perfectly lubed case neck with minimum friction when withdrawing the expander button.

Best neck lube I've ever found, but Imperial has just not worked for me on the outside of the cases when full length resizing large cases on my "under-leveraged" press. Anyone out there using the Lee Hand Press on larger bottle neck cartridges, the Rooster CFL-56 will amaze you.

And no, I have no connection with the Rooster company. Just have tried almost all lubes from STP on...
 
I use Imperial Wax exclusively for .223, .308, and even 9mm with my Lee Classic Turret Press. I've reloaded a couple of thousand rounds and have hardly dented my $5 tin. Just a little bit on the thumb and index finger lasts for 4-5 cases. I just rub a little on the neck/sides (not even all sides) as I slip it onto the shell holder, that's it. Love this stuff.
 
I have had no issues with a number of commercial spray-on lubes. For quantity sizing of rifle ammo, there is no better system than spraying hundreds or thousands of cases at a time in a bucket and shakin' it around to spread the lube evenly.
 
I dip the mouths of rifle cases into some motor Mica, then run the mouth through a little brush, to lube the case mouths. I then use Imperial wax not on the case neck, but the body of the case. I add some to my fingers ~ every 5-10 cases, as if I feel the press getting a little hard to operate, I will rub some of the imperial die wax on my finger for the next batch of 5-10 cases. I use this technique for all rifle cases.
 
mkl said:
I must be the one in a thousand that has not had a good experience with Imperial sizing wax.

Well, you have company then.

I went over twenty years with zero problems while using primarily Lee lube, and RCBS lube.

Couple of months ago, I get persuaded to try Imperial.

Three stuck cases and one ruined sizing die within a month. RCBS even wrote me back and informed me that 95% of the stuck cases in dies they get are the result of wax lubricants. They wrote this as they were replacing my decapping/sizing die that had a case permanently stuck in it. I'd even called up Redding and made sure I was applying it correctly.

In the trash it went.

Guess there are two in a thousand of us now.

Jeff
 
1) $6 is pricey?
2) Two of them?? I have over 1K rounds on my first tin and I've barely scratched the surface, so to speak. Maybe it's my itty-bitty .223 cases. I guess if I man-up to some .300 Win Mag cases, it might go a little faster. But I'd probably burn out the barrel on the rifle first!

.375 H&H won't even make a dent in a can of Imperial....
 
I use Imperial for all resizing and case forming.

Struggled for years with all sorts and kinds of desperate lubes when trying to form 577/450 Martini Henry brass out of annealed CBC 24 gauge cases. It's a pretty radical reforming operation, necking the 24 gauge down to .577 and producing pretty small radii at the shoulder.

Since adopting Imperial about 2 years ago, I have a 99.9% success rate - and any that fail can be turned into .577 Snider just by trimming the length and again going the Imperial route.

Anyone want to buy several gallons of assorted lubricants?
 
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