Want to Start Reloading - Is this Kit OK?

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kyoung05

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Hey, I'm sure there have been hundreds of these threads before, but here goes anyhow. I want to put together a really basic kit for reloading a couple of different handgun rounds, and was wondering how it'd work out. Here is what I plan on getting:

Lee Hand Press ($19.99 for just the press, or $25 for the kit)
Lee Autoprime ($10)
Lee Shellholders ($3/each)
Lee Dies (~$20/set)
Lee AutoDisc Measure ($20)
Digital Dial Caliper (~$20 on ebay)

The total comes out to about $100, which seems steep for just a single-stage hand press kit. I can probably get the bench-mounted anniversary kit for similar price but the problem is that I don't really have a place to mount it, and don't want to leave it out all of the time. With the setup I had in mind, I figured that once I was done I could at least clean up and keep the components in a drawer or something. Anyways, I had a couple of questions.

1. I know the Lee die set comes with 3 dies and a power dipper for that particular caliber. What does the full length sizer die do, and for that matter what is de-capping? Also, what does the expander die do, besides having the "powder-through" function?

2. Will the AutoDisc setup with the powder hopper fit onto the exapander die w/ powder through function, allowing me to charge a case and expand it all in one step? I ask because I assume all Lee products are standard sized so that they will all work with eachother.

3. I plan on buying polished mixed headstamped brass from a local shop. I assume this means the brass has already been cleaned through a tumbler, correct? What is the likelihood that I'll have to trim any of these cases or resize them? Does polished brass already have the spent primers removed? If not, does the autoprime have a function to remove the primers? Or will I have to buy a ram-prime in addition?

4. Is the Autodisc measure setup to load the same volume of powder every time automatically? How does it work, and how do I calibrate it? I've read some posts making me weary of trusting the dippers, so would I need a scale in addition to really measure out an accurate weight/volume, and set it as one of those chambers on the disc? If that's the case, would a basic scale like the Lee safety one work since I assume I'll only have to check the weights every so often?

5. I plan on buying "used" brass every time since I don't want to invest into a tumbler at this point in time. I calculate that I can get .45ACP down to about $5/50. Later I want to start reloading .44mag and .357mag as well. Do you guys feel that even with having to buy brass every time the savings are worth it? It seems that even with buying brass everytime I save about 50% off of factory ammo.

6. Using the autoprime to prime batches of cases at a time, and using the autodisc measure attatched to the expander die on the hand press (assuming it all fits like I hope), how fast do you think I'll be able to reload? Does 100 rounds an hour seem possible? I figured that having the cases primed separately would save some time, as would buying brass that is already cleaned.

7. My final question is, I was trying to put together somewhat of a "Bare Essentials" relaoding kit, and it seems like it's going to cost me about $100. Not a HUGE investment, but significant nonetheless. Is there anything I can cut out to save some money? The reason I chose the Autodisc is because it seems it'd be less messy for the hopper to hold some quantity of powder rather than having to scoop up and funnel powder into each round. That, and also being able to have powder pre-measured seems like it'll speed things along, right? The only "fat" it seems like I can trim is the calipers, but it seems essential in knowing the OAL of the rounds. Is there a cheaper or more efficient way to do this? How much faster would a real single stage press be? Is the only difference the fact that it is mounted and therefore is more stable/aligned and that it has a lever?

Thanks for any advice in advance. :)

PS. I realize I'll need some sort of reloading manual, but was planning on using the few basic loads on the Lee's load sheet along with the "Reloading Data" some has posted online.
 
By hand press you mean the C press or the ones you smack with a hammer?
Why don't you get the Lee Anniversary kit? Just about everything you need but dies to get started, including the Lee reloading manual for $77.00 from MidwayUSA
http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/820810
People have set these things up on the kitchen table or other suitable spots so they can be put away when you're done.

To try and answer your questions:

1) Not being a smart-ass here, but you need to do some reading before you start. The kit above comes with Modern Reloading by Lee, a very good beginners primer.
The full length resizer squeezes the brass back to factory specs after it was expanded in the chamber of your gun.
the decapper pushes out the old primer (usually done at the same time as resizing)
The expander die bells out the mouth of the case a little to allow the bullet to seat properly.

2) Yes

3) All depends. Sometimes the brass is just sorted and polished, still needs to be sized and deprimed. I wouldn't worry much about having to trim handgun calibers.

4) I've never used the disk measures, I added an adjustable charge bar. The kit above comes with the "Perfect" powder measure which is a stand alone measure and doesn't have to be attached to the expander die.

5) Not sure I understand the question. Buying once fired brass is no problem. Cases can be reloaded a number of times, you shouldn't have to buy more of the same caliber for a while. I've lost track of how many times my .357 and 45acp cases have been reloaded. Just inspect the cases before loading them and discard any that may have a split at the case mouth or otherwise look questionable.

6) The kit comes with a hand prime, not the auto prime. You can sit and watch TV and reprime a few hundred cases and have them ready to go before you set down at the bench.
100 rounds an hour with a single stage is pushing it. QUALITY OVER QUANTITY!!

7) You really need the calipers, knowing OAL is important.
Midway has them too for $20.00
http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/119623

Go to the local library and see if they have any load manuals, you might be surprised at what you'll find there.
Before you even start, READ, READ, READ the read some more.

Hope this helps, If I missed something here someone else will surely jump in :D
Don't hesitate to ask questions: There are no stupid ones and folks here are glad to help.

I ran the search function using the word "newbie" and came up with these posts.
http://www.thehighroad.org/search.p...d=688180&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending
 
After reading you first question, you really need to go to the book store or gun shop and pick up the ABC's of Reloading (link provided to order from Barnes and Noble)

There is so much stuff about reloading. Reading this book will provide you with a ton of information you need to get started and to start making decisions about what you need.

And if you are thinking, I already have to buy the reloading equipment... why would I want to buy more stuff? Well, reloading manuals and books are going to be your best friend. The press and accesories are useless without the right load information. I thought I could get by with just one manual after getting the ABC's book, but having multiple is very good to be able to double check loads and information. So I have all the free ones I could get, plus two others and I am going to be ordering another soon too.

Now as for your questions, I will answer them too.

1.) Full length sizer and de-capper, it is all explained in the ABC's, resiszes the brass to pre-fired size and pops out the used primer. The expander opens up the mouth to allow the bullet to be easily fed into the case.

2.) Yes, the Lee Auto Disk mounts to the top of the die. The Lee Perfect Powder measure mounts to a bench. One thing about the Auto Disk measure, the Auto Disk Pro upgrade comes with an improved powder hopper and an adjustable charge bar is worth getting if you are going to primarily use the Auto Disk. And also, depending on what you are loading, the Micro Disk is good to get too. But if you want to use it with a Hand Press (which could require the use of mallet or something for some sizing) which you will also need to hold to prevent powder from spilling, you are better off with a Perfect Powder Measure, but that also requires a bench to mount on.

3.) You will more than likely have to full length size and deprime, and then prime them with the auto prime. The Auto Prime only primes cases, and does both large and small primers, if you didn't know that there are different primer sizes and types, more reason for the book! Handgun brass tends to not need trimming, but measuring random pieves from the batch is still a good idea.

4.) You absolutely need a scale. As the automatic powder measures that are used in reloading are based on powder volume... they do not measure powder mass. Different batches of powder can have a different mass per volume, so it is extremely important to weigh the charge. The Lee scale works fine, it's a bit different to read the markings though, I had to read the instructions to make sure I was using it correctly. The dippers and the Auto Disk work on the same idea, a volume of powder. The Lee Auto Disk comes with a chart showing approximate volume calculations for different powders, but could differ by as much as 10% once the powder is actually measured and weighed. Once a correct volume is selected, weighing the charge every 10 or so charges is my normal routine to make sure the powder is still flowing the same.

5.) Um, .45 ACP brass tends to run $30 for 1000 un cleaned here, and at some places, much more than that. .44 Mag brass runs a lot more than that since it isn't as common. You should get some sort of cleaning method. I cheaped out for a while with a drill (place brass in chuck, spin, clean with pad) but then my wife broke down and got me a Frankford Arsenal vibratory cleaner, so much easier and faster. If you really insist on using new used brass each time, send me all your old brass and I will clean and use it!

6.) Once the brass is cleaned and primed, on my turret press which has all the dies already attached and adjusted, I tend to run about 150 an hour. My friend with a single stage press, runs about 40 an hour... Single Stage presses are not known for blazing speed. My turret press can be used as a single stage if needed, and when used as a quick moving turret, requires a bit more attention to not make mistakes. With a hand press, I would bet on even less. 100 an hour maybe if you are Superman. Sizing brass takes much more effort than I would have every expected. I almost picked up a Hand Press too, but then when I actually sized a piece of brass... no way! So maybe 20-30 an hour if you rush it?

7.) If you consider the calipers "fat" you most definately need to read the ABC's book, and look around for pictures for rounds that blew because of bullets that were loaded to too short of an overall length. Too short is bad, it could create excessive pressures, and too long is bad too, could create excessize pressures because the bullet is already shoved into the bore, or just not even feed correctly either way too.

You really should consider getting a true press and if space is at a premium, the Midway Portable Reloading bench seems to work for most people. Or, some people mount the press and stuff to a 2x4 or some sort and then clamp it to a counter or table top. First, get the book though. You have a lot of reading to do. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am definitely not against reading, and will look into getting that book. Is there info. specific to the ABC's of Reloading that make it valuable? Or would any reloading manual be the same (eg. Speer, etc) Or am I looking for something other than a reloading manual, in which case I've heard good things about "Metallic Cartridge Reloading".


As for the press, I was actually looking at the hand press, which looks like a giant nutcracker, which I take to be a hand-held single stage press, not the "Classic Loader" which uses a hammer for its operations.

Ok, so I'll definitely need a gauge and a scale. Another question is, for a single stage press, it seems like I would need to do one batch of decapping and resizing, then prime the cases, then expand the mouths and charge the cases, then finally seat the bullets, correct? Since I will be using a separate tool for priming, I would need to swap out the dies 3 different times? Now, is this something that I would have to do only with the hand held presses? Or it is required with the bench mounted single stage presses as well? I can see how swapping out different dies for different steps can be time consuming.

As for the cleaning, I guess I'd eventually invest in a tumbler and separator since doing so makes reloading all that much cheaper. I'll just have to save up the brass until then.
 
Yes,you will run your cases in batches.Swapping the dies just takes a few seconds,but DON'T turn em by grasping the body of the die,grab the nut.The Lee rings/nuts have a 0-ring for friction fit,and turning the body will change the adjustment.
I really like thy Lyman book,but the ABC's book is good too_Other manuals have loads only,no general info to speak of.
I started out as you are,and I STRONGLY advise you to go with the Challenger press,and a stand alone measure.Just attach em to a board and c-clamp 'em to a table when needed.
You'lll also need enough loading blocks to stand the brass up in after you add the powder,and a flashlight to check fify of 'em at a time for the level of powder in 'em.A doulbe charge is easily spotted this way.
One thing that will frustrate new loaders is small varaiances in OAL(overall length) of the loaded rounds.+- a few thousandths is not a biggie on OAL.
However,+- few grains of powder IS! The powder charge is the one to really watch and double check.
OK,enough for now.Tha'st my story,and I'm stickin' to it. :)
 
I see a couple of things missing.....
First of all, a scale.
You need a scale.
Any loading or "improvising" is not done without some sort of checks and balances, and the scale is very, very important.
Also, let me recommend at least two or three good load books, I happen to like hornady, speer, hodgdon to start with.
Also, the current revision of ABC's of reloading by Dean Grinnell is required reading, as well as a trip to steve's reloading pages.
I started with a $20 dollar lee loader, and my first two accessories purchased were a hand primer, and a scale. (Not counting the tupperware...)
 
You can buy a single stage press off of Ebay cheap - I just paid $20 for one. The kit would be better, but it's a way to go.

Brass is the most expensive part of reloading, but the savings come from re-using it. Tossing it makes no sense - you'd be better off buying Win White Box at Wally World.

I would not rely on $20 digital calipers from Ebay. Good non-digital calipers cost more than that and you need reliablity.

Reloading is fun and very rewarding - but you have to get the books and the right eqipment. If you don't have the money yet to get the right stuff I'd hold off a while until you do.
 
The $20 calipers from Midway are dial calipers, not digital. I have checked mine against the Starrett's used in the machine shop at work and found them to be accurate.
 
Ok, so looks like my kit will need the following:

A book (ABC's of Reloading, or I was thinking Metallic Cartridge Reloading) $15

Lee Hand Press (I want something small and portable so that I don't need a whole lot of space and so that I can put it away when I am not using it. I think this is just a hand-held single stage press, similar to the bench mounted ones in function, just that it'd hand held, correct?) It also comes with the funnel, ram prime, etc.
$25

Lee Auto Prime $9

Lee Die Set (.45ACP for now, .357/.38 and .44mag later) $20

Lee Safety Powder Scale (the manual one since I think I'll only have to measure out initially for a particular powder, and only every so often afterwards to double check?) $19

Lee AutoDisc measure $20 (To use in conjunction with the expander powder-through die)

Midway Dial Caliper (Frankford brand I think) $20


The total comes out to about $115 without the cost of the book and probably a reloading manual. Seems a bit high for what it is, and I could probably get away a bit cheaper with the anniversary kit, or with the even with their basic reloading kit but I really need that portability factor right now. Besides, I figure I can add their challenger kit sometime later for an addition $30, that way I can have a stationary press for home, and something portable for using while watching TV or at the range. Does this idea seem sound? Is a bench mounted single stage press a whole lot faster than using a hand held one? I'll also add a tumbler and separater later on as well, and will probably just save the spent brass until I get one. Let me know what you guys think, thanks.
 
I started out as you are,and I STRONGLY advise you to go with the Challenger press,and a stand alone measure.Just attach em to a board and c-clamp 'em to a table when needed.
Click to expand...

That's what I just did - bought the press and Hornaday L-N-L powder dipenser for $20 each on ebay. Bolted them to a board and clamped 'em to the bench so they won't be in the way of the Dillon when I use it. This is a great way to go and then put it away when you need to.

single_stage_press1_small.jpg
 
and something portable for using while watching TV
Click to expand...

If you think you can load safely while watching TV, you got a whole new world to discover... without TV! I only prime while watching TV, I like seeing my brass, seeing the powder dispenser dispense once, etc.

Is a bench mounted single stage press a whole lot faster than using a hand held one?
Click to expand...

You are going to load 20 rounds, and say, "Wow, this is slow, and my hands are tired" It ain't fun. For a few test loads at a range, sure, but for any sort of production, no way.

Lee AutoDisc measure $20 (To use in conjunction with the expander powder-through die)
Click to expand...

The Auto Disk isn't useful without a bench mounted press. The powder hopper isn't air tight, it has to be held upright all the time, or you could affect the powder throws or just plain spill it all over the place. So using it in conjuction with a hand press isn't a good idea.

Lee Die Set (.45ACP for now, .357/.38 and .44mag later) $20
Click to expand...

For $20 are these the steel ones? Unless you go up a bit to the carbide ones, you will also need to lube your brass.

Order the ABC's book, read it, and then ask questions. Everything becomes clearer after reading the book.
 
As for the press, I was actually looking at the hand press, which looks like a giant nutcracker, which I take to be a hand-held single stage press, not the "Classic Loader" which uses a hammer for its operations.
Click to expand...

I would recommend Lee's Reloader press over the hand press as IMHO it's more useful for other chores when & if you decided to step-up in your reloading production. Also Lee sells this press with their book for $20.49 (from www.midwayusa.com) the press alone is $18.47 & the book alone is $11.79 so it's a pretty good deal.

One other thing that is cheap & would be a great addition is a case guage, they're $9 for each cartridge from Miday.
 
What is the difference between the LEE Reloader Press and thier Challenger Press? They both are single-stage presses, but look different. Any functional differences between the two? I also see that one has a 4 1/4" opening versus a 3 1/2" opening. Is this a big deal in that I'll only be loading handgun ammo? Also, how much of a difference does that 30 degree hand opening make? Thanks.
 
What is the difference between the LEE Reloader Press and thier Challenger Press? They both are single-stage presses, but look different.
Click to expand...

The main difference is the Challenger is a much stronger press, not really needed for pistol reloading though. The Reloader press has a C style frame, the Challenger has an O style frame. This is the http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/807734, This is the http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/162721

Any functional differences between the two?
Click to expand...

They both function the same & both will work fine for reloading pistol ammo. You will need to out more muscle into using the Reloader as it doesn't have as much leverage as the Challenger. The primer catcher is better on the Reloader as it ejects the primers straight down through the ram & collects them under the press. The primer catcher on the Challenger is just a trough with a plate over it to catch primers, it really doesn't work that well as a lot of primers are ejected over the plate. I made a taller plate for mine (using the original as a template) & it works much better.

I also see that one has a 4 1/4" opening versus a 3 1/2" opening. Is this a big deal in that I'll only be loading handgun ammo?
Click to expand...

I don't think it makes any difference with pistol ammo. I use my Reloader to reload 454 Casull & it has room to spare.

Also, how much of a difference does that 30 degree hand opening make?
Click to expand...

It makes it somewhat easier but I really wish Lee would make the Reloader with the offset handle of the Challenger. As it's built you can't reach the shell holder from the front. You either have to raise the ram slightly or put brass & bullets in from the side.
 
Thanks for clearing that up! Does anyone here use multiple single stage presses for each stage? For instance, one could be setup for just resizing/decapping, one for expanding, and another for seating and crimping? Mybe just 2, one for resize/decap and another for expand, seat and crimp? The reason I ask is it seems like you need to adjust the dies everytime they are removed? I'm thinking this could get tedious having to re-adjust them every time, but I guess it could be minimized with batching the stages together. I know a turret would be the better solution, but the only one affordable to me right now is the Lee 4 hole, and it seems like the auto indexing feature doesn't even work too well, making it into essentially a single stage press with multiple "stations" where I'd have to manually turn the turret to the different stages.
 
Thanks for clearing that up! Does anyone here use multiple single stage presses for each stage? For instance, one could be setup for just resizing/decapping, one for expanding, and another for seating and crimping? Mybe just 2, one for resize/decap and another for expand, seat and crimp?
Click to expand...

<- Raises hand but not for much longer:D

I have 2 Challengers & 1 Reloader. I do all my resizing/depriming, cleaning & priming as a separate step first. I have all 3 presses setup in line so when I sit in front of the Reloader I can reach all three presses. Going from right to left: I bell the case mouth & throw the power charge with the Autodisk measure on Challenger #1. Seat the bullet on the Reloader. Factory crimp on Challenger #2. You still have to set the dies up if you wish to change cartridges but after a few times you can do that much quicker.
 
I've been using a Lee 4 hole turret for more than a year now (4 or 5 thousands rounds). Only had to replace a 50 cent plastic part that wore out and I think Lee would have replaced that free. The turret press works great. With primed cases I average about 150 rounds an hour.

I bought a thousand pieces of .45 ACP once fired brass when I first started. I have about 5 thousand pieces of brass now. The range pickups seem to multiply.

Alan
 
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