Washer spinning behind Muzzle Brake

[Joeyp]

I recenty purchased an AR-15 rifle from a friend. We both live in NJ and it had been made NJ compliant ( Pinned and Welded Brake, No Bayonet Lug, and pinned stock) before he purchased it.

I checked the rifle out before I purchased it and it is in like new condition. We met at a local gun store and I had the rifle transferred to me. When I got the rifle home I was taking a closer look at it trying to figure out the brand of the muzzle brake. As I was checking it out I noticed that the washer behind the brake was spinnng freely. I am not familair with AR-15 rifles so I was not sure if this was the way it should be.

I can see where the brake was drilled and the hole was filled or welded over. I am wondering if it is normal for this washer to spin when brakes are permanently attached like this? If not will it cause any problems?

If so I will take it to a local gunsmith. I am in S. Jersey if anyone knows of a reputable smith I would appreciate a referral.

 

[fireman 9731]

It not normal, but it shouldn't hurt anything with a brake thats welded on. And it would be a high bill to get it fixed.

 

[primalmu]

Almost sounds to me like the guy who did the welding didn't want to index the muzzle brake first.

 

[adcoch1]

Take a single thin copper or stainless steel wire and wrap it in between the brake and crush washer if it bothers you. Maybe high temp solder would work too

 

[Joeyp]

Thank you for all the responses. What I was calling the muzzle brake is actually a KAW linear compensator. It has all holes facing forward. If it will not affect the accuracy or cause other issues I am fine with the washer being able to spin. It does not seem like it would hurt anything but I wanted to be sure.

I am curious as to why it would be a high bill to get fixed or approximate cost. I am guessing breaking the pin would affect the barrel or damage the compensator? If it would ruin the barrel I would definitely leave it alone. It is a 16" barrel.

 

[maxxhavoc]

Usually, to un-pin a flash hider, they just cut off the flash hider and throw it away. The pin goes through the muzzle device, into a hole on the barrel. The right way to do it is to drill through the pin until you can unscrew it. Definitely a gunsmith job. Especially since it is probably illegal for you to remove it (I am guessing.)

On a 16" AR that is a crush washer that lets you position the muzzle brake correctly by "squishing" as you turn. On yours it is purely cosmetic. Glue it, use the wire wrap specified, or find some other cheap, easy fix. The washer serves no purpose on yours except to make the gap look better.

 

[adcoch1]

Usually, to un-pin a flash hider, they just cut off the flash hider and throw it away. The pin goes through the muzzle device, into a hole on the barrel. The right way to do it is to drill through the pin until you can unscrew it. Definitely a gunsmith job. Especially since it is probably illegal for you to remove it (I am guessing.)

On a 16" AR that is a crush washer that lets you position the muzzle brake correctly by "squishing" as you turn. On yours it is purely cosmetic. Glue it, use the wire wrap specified, or find some other cheap, easy fix. The washer serves no purpose on yours except to make the gap look better.

Yeah to "legally" unpin one requires a gunsmith or removing the barrel first to stay inside the law. And the compensator usually is sacrificed in the process. Doesn't have to be always but usually ends up being more cost effective in the long run. Accuracy will not be affected by a loose crush washer, but if it rattles and annoys you just find a method to make it hold still. I used the wire trick on a similar situation once and it worked amazingly well. Good luck!

 

[rcmodel]

Squirt some red Lock-Tight in the joint.

Wrap a strip of tape around it to keep it in place.

Take the tape off the next day and clean up the excess with acetone.

Problem solved.

rc

 

[Bula]

Good call RC, I'm all for for cheap fixes to a non performance issue.

 

[Joeyp]

Thanks again for your suggestions. I have red loctite at home so I am going with rc's suggestion.

Joe

 

[BCRider]

Welding induces big thermal expansion issues. It's possible that when the pin was welded to lock it in place it caused the compensator to expand enough to slightly crush the crush washer a bit more. Then when the expander shrunk again it left the washer free to spin.

If that's the case then the gap is going to be preciously small and a wire won't fit. Gluing it with the Loctite to stop it from rattling is the easy and best option if it's that small a gap.