water based cleaner corrosive ammo

[General Tso]

I'm not going to run water in or over my guns, especially my AR. I read about a product called Shooter's Choice Aqua Clean Water-Based Bore Cleaner. Has anyone used or heard about cleaning rifles with a water based cleaner after using corrosive ammo? The article also mentioned Hoppes nitro solvent. Is that just #9?

 

[alemonkey]

An AR wouldn't ever be shooting corrosive ammo, that I can think of. If you're not willing to use water to clean rifles that do shoot corrosive ammo, why would you be willing to use water based cleaners? After all, it's the water that's doing the job of dissolving the corrosive salts from the primers. In my milsurp bolt actions and black powder cartridge guns I just soak patches in soapy water and push them through the bore till they come out clean, then dry patches followed by some oil. It's really very easy.

 

[ACORN]

Though I've never used it I've heard that some use inexpensive ammonia window cleaner along the lines of Windex to clean then dry swab it and then follow with your regular cleaner. You're trying to neutralize the salt left from corrosive ammo, which the ammonia does, then the regular cleaner to clean and protect. .

 

[Jim Watson]

The only thing that will reliably remove the potassium chloride residue left by corrosive primers is water. Dress it up as Aqua Clean if you like. Or Windex.

Hoppes Nitro Solvent is probably No 9 but they have several products under the No 9 label now. None contain water, see above.

I don't know of any corrosive .223/5.56 ammunition, even the cheap Russian stuff, so your AR is pretty safe.

 

[General Tso]

An AR wouldn't ever be shooting corrosive ammo, that I can think of. If you're not willing to use water to clean rifles that do shoot corrosive ammo, why would you be willing to use water based cleaners? After all, it's the water that's doing the job of dissolving the corrosive salts from the primers. In my milsurp bolt actions and black powder cartridge guns I just soak patches in soapy water and push them through the bore till they come out clean, then dry patches followed by some oil. It's really very easy.

I have a S&W AR in 5.45 x 39. I want to shoot surplus ammo.

 

[alemonkey]

True, I hadn't thought of 5.45. But again, using one of the water based cleaners is still just...water. Like Jim said, water is the only thing that will remove it. You can use commercial products, but it's still water.

 

[Garnett Stancil]

Water To Clean Corrosive Ammo

I have had more than one WWII vet tell me that when returning from the rifle range they took their M-1 Garand into the shower with them. They say soapy water is the only sure way to clean corrosive ammo residue.

 

[Hatterasguy]

As just clean them as normal with CLP foaming bore cleaner, number 9, and regular CLP. No rust issues.

 

[wnycollector]

I have been shooting corrosive ammo in all of my mil surplus rifles for 20 years. I squirt the innards of the gun with windex and run a patch or two through the barrel, and then clean as usual (clp and hoppes #9).

As far as 5.45x39 ammo, the bulgarian flavor (52gr 7n6) stuff is VERY mildly corrosive. I shot 150 rounds of it through my Saiga IZ240 and then put it in the safe with out cleaning it. One week later, I shot it again and then cleaned it as usual, not a spot of rust anywhere. Keep in mind, I live in a relatively low humidity climate and this was a very short term un-scientific experiment...YMMV!

 

[gb0399]

I'm not going to run water in or over my guns, especially my AR.

Running water over your AR is not a problem. All ARs are modeled after the M4/M16 which had a submersion requirement. Also, do you think the military would buy a weapon that couldn't get wet? That doesn't make sense. I will say this, with water comes proper lubrication and maintenance. Like said above, cleaning corrosive residue with water based solvent is normal and advised.

 

[Ignition Override]

For my Enfields (#4 with #5 "Jungle C." ) and Yugo Mauser very hot water has worked, followed by several patches then two minutes with the hair dryer, from both ends. Also rub the bolt face.

But how about the rifling?
I've seldom used the brass bore brush, whether after using corrosive ammo or newer Wolf etc.

Should a brush always be used to scrape the rifling while some hot water is still in the bore?

 

[General Tso]

Thanks for the info. I love this site!

 

[Al Thompson]

I use Windex. If you want to do it right, get a funnel that fits into the bore and pour a kettle of boiling water through the bore, chamber to muzzle. Works like a charm and the boiling water evaporates quickly from the hot metal.

 

[briansmithwins]

I've been shooting corrosive Yugo M67 for the past 3 years or so.

Here in Oregon I've seen rust spots in 45 minutes if I don't clean the rifles. It did happen to be actually raining that time, but still...

I use soapy water. I was using Mpro7 till I ran out. I've since switched to Simple Green Aircraft cleaner. It's rated safe for aluminum (regular SG can eat aluminum) and is under $30 a gallon. Plus you then are supposed to dilute it further with water so you actually get like 5 gallons of cleaner for your money.

I use it just like I would any other powder solvent: Apply to areas with gas fouling, dry, then oil. No thermos of boiling water, no showering with the rifle, no voodoo ceremonies performed under the light of a new moon.

No rust problems either.

BSW

 

[stubbicatt]

per BSW...no voodoo ceremonies performed under the light of a new moon.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Funny that!

Mpro7 works very well as a solvent, but is horrifically expensive. I've tried the Ballistol/water combo, but it doesn't work as well in removing the powder fouling and residue as does the Mpro7.

I shall try the Simple Green, as I have a squirt bottle in the garage. Seems like it might work.

 

[briansmithwins]

I forgot to add:

I use the SG Aircraft cleaner on other things than corrosive ammo fouling. It works great in the ultrasonic tank and as a general degreaser and cleaner. Removes carbon fouling great too.

BSW

 

[Ditchtiger]

I boil 2-3 quarts of water then using a funnel in the chamber I'll pour it down the bore.
A couple squirts of WD40 to dissipate the water, (the little that does not evaporate).
This heats up a cold wet gun in an Oregon winter.
Then clean and oil as normal.

 

[tju1973]

True, I hadn't thought of 5.45. But again, using one of the water based cleaners is still just...water. Like Jim said, water is the only thing that will remove it. You can use commercial products, but it's still water.

You are right-- I always believed the myth of Windex "neutralizing the salts"-- until I was out of Windex...I refilled the bottle with water..and run almost boiling water down the bore of my M44-- then I lube generously, wipe down, then lube lightly..

Never looked back, and I keep the Windex for windows...

 

[wnycollector]

I use Windex to clean because it's convenient, evaporates quickly, doesn't leave a residue and most importantly it has a high concentration of dihydrogen monoxide to get rid of corrosive salts.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

AR ammo (.223 Remington or 5.56x45mm) is comercially made with non corrosive primers.

All US issue .30 M1 Carbine ammo is commercially made with non-corrosive ammo (the US Aberdeen Proving Ground had a small lot of corrosive primed ammo tested with bad results--the gas system became inoperable; despite that, the French did make a small run of corrosive primed .30 M1 Carbine ammo after WWII; otherwise, no corrosive ammo in M1 Carbine .30 cal).

 

[Kleanbore]

I use Windex to clean because it's convenient, evaporates quickly, doesn't leave a residue and most importantly it has a high concentration of to get rid of corrosive salts.

I have my dihydrogen monoxide piped in, where I filter it before use.

I think the key is to use a lot of it. When I cleaned guns fired with corrosive ammo, I heated the dihydrogen monoxide to just over 95 degrees C to get the metal hot so the cleaner evaporated quickly.

They didn't have WD40 in those days, but today I would follow up with that before oiling.

 

[aka108]

I used a plastic bottle with the top cut off. Put a couple of inches of hot water in it along with a decent squirt of liguid detergent made for dishwashing machines. Stuck the muzzle of the rifle in this soup and plunged a patch on the end of the cleaning rod back and forth. Dumped the stuff and repeated the process with just plain hot water. Got things really clean. Ran a few patches down the bore to dry and the swabbed out with the Hoppes No. 9. Sold off the ammo and the rifles that used it but never had a rust problem over a 20 year period.

 

[Joe Demko]

If you go using Simple Green, you need to rinse thoroughly afterward on any gun that aluminum parts. The makers of SG do not recommend it for use on aluminum. They manufacture an aluminum-friendly formulation used by the airlines that can also be used on firearms.

 

[Jim Watson]

I recall John "Pondoro" Taylor's take on the subject. He said that a cup of hot water through each of your express rifle's barrels was adequate, and recommended carrying a funnel to direct it without spillage. If you were in a dry camp, the last cup of coffee in the pot would do. And that in the extreme, you always have with you a supply of mostly water that will do less harm to your gun than potassium chloride.

 

[rondog]

Yep, pour boiling water down the chamber and follow up with compressed air to blow it all dry. Then clean as normal.